ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
ult680 said:Nothing is perfect, if it was there would be no reason to make any other brands. You buy what you like the best and move forward from there. Almost everyone on here has modded or changed something on there machine to make it the way THEY want it. Not trying to start any wars here but every brand has a few little issues, we just fix what needs to be fixed. By the way I stole the quote " Nothin parts and hundreds!" from a friend that rides Cats!
680
Still tryin to be nice....
justinator
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I had some ratcheting as well with the stock ripsaw and drivers. The biggest thing that stops it I found was to keep reducing transfer till it went away. And the track had to be close to yamaha spec. Like this I could pull off trail in deep snow and hammer the throttle hard and it would not skip. But I usually dont like to see a track that tight either and that was the reason for the extroverts. In all reality the sled handles so bad with alot of transfer that unless drag racing its almost pointless. my suggestion would be to tighten the track to yamaha specs and then back off transfer half way and try again. keep backing off till it stops and if it doesnt I wonder if theres something wrong with your drivers?? bad driver alignment maybe?? worn or broken driver??
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<I wonder if theres something wrong with your drivers?? bad driver alignment maybe?? worn or broken driver??>>>
The ideas are appreciated, trust me. Drivers are spot on, indexed properly, and like new.
The problem with limiting transfer is you are also introducing coupling sooner. That's what is actually limiting/stopping further transfer when the slide comes down on the adjusting nuts. At that point, the suspension is coupled. The suspension travel from that point on is no longer in play on anything but the biggest bumps. That's why raising the nuts/limiting transfer works to reduce ratcheting. You are limiting the suspensions travel - and it's ability to release more track tension because of that.
In practice, if that were not the case, I like to set a sled up to use it's full suspension stroke - as much of it and as often as possible. The transfer is delt with using the limiter strap (among other things). Just me.
The ideas are appreciated, trust me. Drivers are spot on, indexed properly, and like new.
The problem with limiting transfer is you are also introducing coupling sooner. That's what is actually limiting/stopping further transfer when the slide comes down on the adjusting nuts. At that point, the suspension is coupled. The suspension travel from that point on is no longer in play on anything but the biggest bumps. That's why raising the nuts/limiting transfer works to reduce ratcheting. You are limiting the suspensions travel - and it's ability to release more track tension because of that.
In practice, if that were not the case, I like to set a sled up to use it's full suspension stroke - as much of it and as often as possible. The transfer is delt with using the limiter strap (among other things). Just me.
tttario
Expert
ApexSS said:
Are you sure it is track ratcheting? If you are going extremely slow it maybe the mono rear suspension making the clunking noise over very small sharp bumps. The noise comes from the transfer rod going to end of travel quickly and "clunks" together. Took me a while to get used too. Some guys are saying you can put a rubber o-ring in there or a piece of rubber to dampen the clunk.
I am only saying because I asked the same question on this forum.
Trevor
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
This isn't a Monoshock suspension, it is the ProActive CK that has the tendency to ratchet.
justinator
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ahicks said:
I was worried about the ride suffering as well but I played with those transfer adjustments one day on a trail loaded with stutter bumps and to be honest I really didnt notice a damn thing, sled still was too stiff to be comfy in the stutters and still bottomed too easy in the bigger stuff.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<I was worried about the ride suffering as well but I played with those transfer adjustments one day on a trail loaded with stutter bumps and to be honest I really didnt notice a damn thing, sled still was too stiff to be comfy in the stutters and still bottomed too easy in the bigger stuff.>>>
This is very subjective, and possibly a difference in our setups and/or weight. I'm getting a fairly rough ride under about 20mph in the 12" chop, but certainly no worse than the sleds I come off of (other than one with an M-10). After that though, I'm not doing bad at all until I get in to the junk that's really tore up where I need to get up off my butt. I'm curious about the what the difference in experience with this might be, would be happy to compare notes via PM or another string?
This is very subjective, and possibly a difference in our setups and/or weight. I'm getting a fairly rough ride under about 20mph in the 12" chop, but certainly no worse than the sleds I come off of (other than one with an M-10). After that though, I'm not doing bad at all until I get in to the junk that's really tore up where I need to get up off my butt. I'm curious about the what the difference in experience with this might be, would be happy to compare notes via PM or another string?
