Rear idler wheel change

[Apexpat]

Replacing all 3 rear wheels on my 13 Apex. I’ve replaced hyfax before so I’m familiar with how to loosen the track. Have a few questions on removing the rear axle bolt. 1)So it looks like just the left side axle nut comes off, the right side nut is pinned on? 2) How far/loose do the tensioner bolts need to be turned before the axle bolt can be pounded out to the right side? Does the tensioner bolt obstruct the axle bolt if not loosed enough? 3) I need to replace one of the tensioner nuts the edges are stripped, I have a spare. Can I just loosen the tensioner bolt all the way through the rail and spin a new one on?

 

[steiner]

Back out the tensioners as much as you can . The more room the better. Undo the nut on the left and pull the axle out. Be careful not to smack the thread end of the axle. If its tight use a brass drift to persuade it out. Once the wheels, spacers and axle are out replacing the nut the tensioner will be a breeze.
Seeing that you will have it all apart upgrading I would add another wheel to the back to balance out the track tension.

 

[RobX-1]

1.) Yes, the nut comes off but the bolt on the other side is pinned to the axle via a set screw:

Years back Yamaha offered this rear axle tool that threads onto the existing axle bolt and then you pound the tool thru to remove axle bolt so the existing collars and washers stay intact:

2.) When removing the suspension, I just loosen the nuts on the tensioner bolts until they are flush with the threaded end; the rear axle will not move any further back with them loosened more. If you just need to remove the rear axle bolt and are not planning on dropping the suspension, then you will most likely just need to put some slack in the track to take off tension on the rear axle.

As for the track tensioner bolt, it is just a threaded bolt (#696) with a loop on the end that the rear axle slides thru and the nut (#70) is what you are loosening:

 

[maim]

from the looks of his sled in his profile, he most likely has the 128" mono suspension that takes a different axle than an xtx sled. i have personally never had a mono shock rear axle out of a skid but i do know the part # is different. i keep the xtx axle in stock as it fits all the sleds we own with 14"-15" wide track since the phazer was introduced.

 

[Apexpat]

from the looks of his sled in his profile, he most likely has the 128" mono suspension that takes a different axle than an xtx sled. i have personally never had a mono shock rear axle out of a skid but i do know the part # is different. i keep the xtx axle in stock as it fits all the sleds we own with 14"-15" wide track since the phazer was introduced.

Correct 128 Mono rear axle

 

[RobX-1]

Not sure I follow you @maim as the pic with the 4 idler wheels is from my 08 Apex LTX which was a Mono. As for that rear axle bolt, unless I am missing something, the same axle bolt and nut used on my 03 121" RX-1 was used on the 08 136" Apex as well as the 18 146" Apex so I'm not sure the length of skid used a different axle bolt.

 

[maim]

i went on port yamaha site and looked up the rear axle part #. the 144"-146" xtx use a totally different part # than the 128" track sleds. 11 up apex/vector sleds use the mono shock II suspension. pic below.

i had to go look it up as i always favored the long tracked sleds from the factory.

 

[RobX-1]

I stand corrected, sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words as I guess I never realized the setup to adjust track deflection was different between the shorties and longer tracks; was more focused on the actual bolt/nut than the track adjusting back stops.

To answer the OP's question, you would only need to loosen these two bolts until there's sufficient slack in the track to then drive out rear axle bolt but if all you need to do is simply replace the nut (#63), then the rear axle does not need to be removed; it would only have to if you had the longer skid where the track adjusting bolt has a looped end that the rear axle bolt slides thru.

 

[Stubbs]

It ALL depends on the year and which version of the Mono we’re looking at. All versions of the original mono used the solid small diameter rear axle that requires 6004 bearings for the idler wheels mounted on it. All versions of the mono II use the hollow large rear axel and the rear idlers require 6005 bearings.