I have my skid apart and Im trying to replace the bushings on the upper wheels. The upper wheels wont come off.
Shouldnt they just slide off the arm shaft or am I missing something?
thanks
Shouldnt they just slide off the arm shaft or am I missing something?
thanks
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
They are an tight fit and the surfaces are typically corroded. After you remove the snap-ring, you will have to hammer the wheels off. To save the wheels, you have to hit on the bearing races. I have a punch that works really nicely for this.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I made myself a PULLER and works like a charm.
You can sand the shaft down somewhat were the BEARING sits on shaft, but don't over do it, you still need the bearing to be fairly snug on shaft.
You can sand the shaft down somewhat were the BEARING sits on shaft, but don't over do it, you still need the bearing to be fairly snug on shaft.
Len are you talking about the snap rings around the bearings holding the wheels on? My shop manual shows a circlip there but it doesnt show circlips for the other idlers. This makes me think there are circlips here that are in addition to the bearing circlips.
thanks guys
thanks guys
if your trying to get the wheels off the shaft I just use a socket about 3/4 the size fo the shaft and tap the shaft through the housing until the wheel falls off then go to the other side and repeat.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Wait. ... Which wheels are we talking about? I initially thought you were talking about the smaller/front ones. They have a Circlip (I call it a snap ring.) that holds the wheel and bearing on the shaft. But it is actually a circlip. The larger/rear ones have a snap ring holding the wheel on the bearing. But the bearing is not held on the shaft by the snap ring. I thought we were talking about the smaller/front wheels. They both (large and small wheels) fit tight on the shaft and corrosion only makes their fit tighter. Hope this clears this up.
You can go HEREand look at the Expoded Views of your suspension.
You can go HEREand look at the Expoded Views of your suspension.
Thanks guys.
I was talking about the large wheels on top attached to the top of the rear pivot arm. The bolts holding them on go through the rear of the tunnel. The whole pivot arm is off the skid and the wheels wont come off. I think you guys are right and its just so corroded that the bearing is stuck on the shaft.
I sprayed some penetrating fluid on there so hopefully it'll loosen up in time.
Im trying to get the wheels off so I can replace the bushings, and take the shaft out to weld a nut and greese fitting on the arm.
I was talking about the large wheels on top attached to the top of the rear pivot arm. The bolts holding them on go through the rear of the tunnel. The whole pivot arm is off the skid and the wheels wont come off. I think you guys are right and its just so corroded that the bearing is stuck on the shaft.
I sprayed some penetrating fluid on there so hopefully it'll loosen up in time.
Im trying to get the wheels off so I can replace the bushings, and take the shaft out to weld a nut and greese fitting on the arm.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
They're pressed on, you need a PULLER...I'll try to get you a pick, be very careful not to bang on end of shaft its in ALUMINUM and very soft and if you do use a WOODEN block but you'll probably end up damanging your bushing flange...been their, so this is when I made up my puller.
oops I banged the crap out of the shaft. What damage couldve been done? Just flattening out the end? Nothing looked visibly wrong
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If you banged up the shaft's end a lot, it is now shorter. But, it is probably still usable, once you clean it up. Hopefully the bolt will still go back in. If not, then you need to re-tap the threads. You have to be very carefull when you start the tap to get it in the threads correctly. You should put the bolt back in the shaft at least 1/2" when you use a puller or pound on it.
