Firecat_Freak
Pro
I find that I need to replace this bearing every year. If i don't, I can feel the bearing go dry at some point in the season through the running boards. I'm not interested in greasing it. I am interested in getting a higher quality bearing. I'm sure someone has been here done that?? I think I paid something like $35 for the yamaha bearing. I'd be ok with a $100 bearing if i knew it would last more than a year or two? I haven't kept the old ones so i don't know the bearing number.
Anyone found a quality replacement bearing? I have Motion Industries that is local and usually can get the good stuff........
Thanks.
Anyone found a quality replacement bearing? I have Motion Industries that is local and usually can get the good stuff........
Thanks.
Stubbs
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- Nov 7, 2006
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- Uxbridge, On, Can.
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- ‘16 Apex XTX with 137” Mono II
+ other gooodies
- LOCATION
- Uxbridge ON
I have seen first hand what happens trail side if you take a chance with this drive axle bearing. For the $18 and 15 minutes it takes to change it I have no issue doing it every year. This also keeps the bearing from seizing to the shaft which makes a failure even worse. I suppose you could grease it several times throughout the season by popping off the seal if you wanted to keep grease inside fresh.
iceback
Pro
Only dries out when the water is gone, not the grease drying , it's being washed out.
Teamblue4
Lifetime Member
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- 1,288
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- Il.
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- USA
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- 2012 Apex XTX
2013 Apex SE
2014 Apex SE
2014 Apex XTX
2018 Apex XTX 50TH Anniversary
Have not found a better bearing than a Yamaha OEM one. 30 plus yrs of riding Yamaha I have never had this bearing fail, and I have put alot of miles on in those yrs. 10,000 miles is my changing bearing set point.
Alittle moly grease each year goes along way.
Alittle moly grease each year goes along way.
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario.Ca
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- 06 Attak
01 SXR Long Track
I grease mine regularly and not as lucky as Teamblue4 because I have had the odd failure. I use marine grease in mine, even new ones and never had the bearing go dry.
john10toe
Pro
Seems on the 2011 and newer Apex's Yamaha added a plastic cap that clips on the inner bearing flange and rests on the inner bearing seal. This really helps keep the grease in and the water out. With this installed you don't need to grease as often and you can get a couple of years out of the bearing provided it is serviced before the sled is stored for the summer. As it simply attaches to the bearing I am certain it will fit pre 2011 models........Item 6 Cap Assy. P/N 8FN-47377-00-00. See attached PDF.
Attachments
Sasquatch
Lifetime Member
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- Yamaha's
On my RX I just greased the bearing yearly and it was never dry. In 18,000 miles I changed it once with a NTN bearing and it crapped out in maybe 3,500 miles. The original Toyo or Japanese bearing lasted 8,000 miles and I changed it out because of mileage. I put another Jap bearing in and its still good 6,500 miles later still grease it every year. So is the 06 to 10 bearing different then the RX bearing?
Stubbs
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,145
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Uxbridge, On, Can.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- ‘16 Apex XTX with 137” Mono II
+ other gooodies
- LOCATION
- Uxbridge ON
Same bearing.
kered
Pro
How do you change this bearing in 18 min? 09 apex gt
kviper
VIP Member
Way faster and cheaper to grease every year and will last year's. New bearing or regrease will have water in it at the end of season. The key is to clean and regrease at the end of season so it don't set all summer with water in it. My 12 though with the plastic cap has yet to have water in it but i only have 2,000 mi on it. What is the problem with washing and regreasing? It's less than a 30 min job start to finish and just as good as a new bearing!
Stubbs
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,145
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Uxbridge, On, Can.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- ‘16 Apex XTX with 137” Mono II
+ other gooodies
- LOCATION
- Uxbridge ON
1. Loosen track
2. Elevate back of sled
3. Loosen two set screws in bearing collar.
4. Pop off hood and left side panel.
5. Remove nuts that hold speedo sensor and outer bearing cage.
6. Remove old bearing and install new.
7. Re assemble in reverse order.
I do this every fall and have never had to deal with a bearing seized to the shaft or a trail side failure.
2. Elevate back of sled
3. Loosen two set screws in bearing collar.
4. Pop off hood and left side panel.
5. Remove nuts that hold speedo sensor and outer bearing cage.
6. Remove old bearing and install new.
7. Re assemble in reverse order.
I do this every fall and have never had to deal with a bearing seized to the shaft or a trail side failure.
Last edited:
slimjim2525
Lifetime Member
13k miles on mine and clean and grease yearly and it looks good everytime.Way faster and cheaper to grease every year and will last year's. New bearing or regrease will have water in it at the end of season. The key is to clean and regrease at the end of season so it don't set all summer with water in it. My 12 though with the plastic cap has yet to have water in it but i only have 2,000 mi on it. What is the problem with washing and regreasing? It's less than a 30 min job start to finish and just as good as a new bearing!
yamaha convert
Pro
13k miles on mine and clean and grease yearly and it looks good everytime.
They always look good until you pull them out, wash out the grease, and feel how rough the bearing is.
My sleds both had roughly 6500 miles each and I had greased them every year. They looked clean, but I was replacing the drive shaft on my Attack and checked the bearing whilst it was out. I'm glad I did. I pulled the bearing from my Apex and it was much the same.
I'm sure they would have continued on fine, but for $20, from now on I'm thinking of replacing them at 5K intervals.
I did check my friends 2012 sled with the plastic cover and his looked great at 1500 miles. I'm thinking of adding the plastic cover to my sleds.
Does anyone know if you have to remove the drive shaft to install these?
kviper
VIP Member
On my older Apex's I washed out and regressed till about 5K than started over with a new bearing and washing and regressing. Never had a problem.
slimjim2525
Lifetime Member
Where r the set screws? Under the tunnel?1. Loosen track
2. Elevate back of sled
3. Loosen two set screws in bearing collar.
4. Pop off hood and left side panel.
5. Remove nuts that hold speedo sensor and outer bearing cage.
6. Remove old bearing and install new.
7. Re assemble in reverse order.
I do this every fall and have never had to deal with a bearing seized to the shaft or a trail side failure.
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