SumpBuster
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I read all the previous stuff about the reverse issue, as mine (06 ApexRTX) did it the first time Monday. I noticed that if the lever was held toward the fuel tank, the entire chaincase was very quiet in reverse..the further I held it the better it was. So I adjusted the top link out in the field, and it worked fine. Then I went home and adusted to the book...27 mm and the play out of the lower one. Grind city. So today I had the reverse hook position welded and the slot remachined so the handle would be farther toward the gas tank, without having to compromise the forward position by lengthening the links. Nothing seems worn, but I'm sure the reverse gear is a little rounded after a few grinds. I tend to agree with a post about the Canadian dealers adjusting it to 31 mm. I did that and rode hard all day with zero issues or noise. But now I'm trying this new slot deal.
nate007
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I personally would use those measurements as a set-up guideline only, as mine had the same issue. As things wear (especially the little heim ends on the reverse linkage) the tollerances will get sloppy.
I simply adjusted mine until it went into reverse smoothly and that was it. You can add some lenght to the bottom link as well and that takes care of it, just be sure not to go too far, as it can make the groove on the reverse gear inside the case wear faster.
I'ts a good idea to test/adjust that often overlooked part during your pre-season preparation...
I simply adjusted mine until it went into reverse smoothly and that was it. You can add some lenght to the bottom link as well and that takes care of it, just be sure not to go too far, as it can make the groove on the reverse gear inside the case wear faster.
I'ts a good idea to test/adjust that often overlooked part during your pre-season preparation...
SumpBuster
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I think you're right, but I wasn't sure and wanted to make sure 'forward' was fully engaged.
In any case, it works perfectly, now with the links adjusted to spec...I would say anyone who wants to fool around like this should weld the reverse hook, and mill or hand grind a new slot from where the handle goes all the way left, to just depressing the reverse switch...reverse has never sounded so smooth...on the stand or in the snow..it really is quiet now.
In any case, it works perfectly, now with the links adjusted to spec...I would say anyone who wants to fool around like this should weld the reverse hook, and mill or hand grind a new slot from where the handle goes all the way left, to just depressing the reverse switch...reverse has never sounded so smooth...on the stand or in the snow..it really is quiet now.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just adjusted the reverse on my Apex. When you grab the reverse handle pay close attention the the "L" type gold bracket that pivots. Mine had a lot of slop in it. If I watched that bracket and bulled the handle back You could see the linkage didn't move until the lever was pulled back a decent amount due to the slop. I adjusted my top linkage to about 30mm, just enough to take out all of that slop. Slips right into reverse now.
SumpBuster
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I agree...I didn't need to do what I did, but now there's enough travel even if my linkage is almost totally wore out! They seem to have built in a very precise amount of movement.
I guess in a pinch, if someone has reverse grinding, and doesn't want to adjust on the trail, just hold the lever all the way left while backing up.
I guess in a pinch, if someone has reverse grinding, and doesn't want to adjust on the trail, just hold the lever all the way left while backing up.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
SumpBuster said:I agree...I didn't need to do what I did, but now there's enough travel even if my linkage is almost totally wore out! They seem to have built in a very precise amount of movement.
I guess in a pinch, if someone has reverse grinding, and doesn't want to adjust on the trail, just hold the lever all the way left while backing up.
That is a great tip! Not sure there is much worse than the sound of the chain case grinding.
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