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Reverse is difficult

vk540

Newbie
Joined
Mar 28, 2008
Messages
13
i had my 2011 VK pro out for the first grooming trip yesterday, and it does not shift into reverse easily, does anyone have any suggestions??..Thanks
 

This is a common problem. Especially if the idle is set a bit high. You can shut off the engine to get it into reverse.

Avoid driving against the front of a pickup box or anywhere the transmission is under tension - that can make it difficult to reverse. If the transmission parts are bound and you can't drive the machine forward, you may have to bounce the back end by hand enough to realign the gears. It seems to get better with extended use.
 
i have noticed that sometimes it works OK, and othertimes it simply wont shift, hopefully it gets easier over time, i pull a 4x8 mogal master drag, and taking a load off the drive trail for it to shift is difficult.
 
More thoughts:
The problem for my VK Pro is getting the transmission lever out of the gear I'm in rather than getting the lever into reverse. If I know that I want to get into reverse ahead of time, I flick the lever out of gear just the moment before the machine stops. It seems easier to put the gear box in neutral while all the parts are moving. Then with the sled at a complete stop, it's easy to put it into reverse.
 
turn the idle down just a little it does help. also shake the machine work.s turning off if under pressure works to ie pulling a drag.
 
I have a 2007 VK Pro. I have been using 8DN belts instead of the 8GS and find the machine shifts much more smoothly. 8GS originally came on the machine and is what is specified for it.
 
Turning the idle down worked for me. Rocking the machine a from side to side works.
 
Lubrication..... will inherently make this lever easier to use. I have read quite a few threads and reviews on this. Apart from the idle being to high as someone else mentioned a good cleaning of the shift rod and springs followed by some form of lubrication on the rod that is good for cold temps such as auto transmission fluid for example will work wonders. Worked for me as my 10 year old sled had probably never seen any maintenance in that area prior. As you work it in moving it back and forth you will not only immediately feel a difference but you will also train your brain to shift this thing properly. Also if it just won't move for you out on the trail just turn off the engine/shift then restart.
 
Last edited:
Idle and belt deflection are definately touchy/feely on this one...burping the throttle usually gets it done
 
I spoke to an mechanic and he suggested change gear problems could be due to broken bolt inside the gear box.
Apperently the bolt that hold the gears together into the shaft can break and is quite a common failure , this will cause gears to wear on housing and eventually wear a hole in the casing.

The bolt can be difficult to get out.

Does anyone have similar experience ?
 
I spoke to an mechanic and he suggested change gear problems could be due to broken bolt inside the gear box.
Apperently the bolt that hold the gears together into the shaft can break and is quite a common failure , this will cause gears to wear on housing and eventually wear a hole in the casing.

The bolt can be difficult to get out.

Does anyone have similar experience ?
It will just cause the bolt head to wear on the case.
The broken part isn't that hard to get out. Drill a small hole in the end and then heat it just enough to melt the Loctite. Tap some sort of socket bit into hole, (like a torx), then thread out.
 
Thanks
So do you think the broken bolt can make difficult gear shifting?
I have to rattle the rear clutch back and forth (secondary) in order to change gear.
 
Thanks
So do you think the broken bolt can make difficult gear shifting?
I have to rattle the rear clutch back and forth (secondary) in order to change gear.
It may affect it somewhat as it holds the cup for the spring.
 


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