Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have Fly bars on my Nytro and I'm in the middle of putting RSI heating elements on. Tried searching and sounds like most people are using stock bars. Since aluminum bars are a big heat soak I'm leaning towards wiring them blue/red. I'm curious how other people with aluminum bars and RSI warmers are wiring them?
Thanks
Thanks
stopdropanroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nikolai said:I have Fly bars on my Nytro and I'm in the middle of putting RSI heating elements on. Tried searching and sounds like most people are using stock bars. Since aluminum bars are a big heat soak I'm leaning towards wiring them blue/red. I'm curious how other people with aluminum bars and RSI warmers are wiring them?
Thanks
I had the RSI heaters and grips last year on stock bars and loved them, this year I have RSI bars and the same setup with the heaters. I wired mine with the blue/red together and can tell you at 3-4 bars they are very warm, never ran them past that all year. In your case you are not using the factory controls and just a switch, I think if you wired them together all the time it would melt your grips!! Your other option would be to get a 3way switch and have the availibilty to go from hi/lo/off that way you can put them on hi and when they get to hot switch them to lo to maintain the heat. JM2C
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
If you intend on using a wrap for the grips (vs. the more common sleeve type) you could put a thin layer of silicone or fabric tape on the bar below the heater. This will slow down the heat transfer into the bars leaving more for your hands.
And, because you'll be running the bejeepers out of the heater elements with the RED/BLUE wiring configuration, it might be wise have another set on hand.
And, because you'll be running the bejeepers out of the heater elements with the RED/BLUE wiring configuration, it might be wise have another set on hand.
yamahaboy701
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Last year I put silicone in my aluminum handle bars ends, notice a small improvement right away. Some people say it helps with vibration too but I could not tell the difference; three cylinder viper motors aren't the vibration type.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
stopdropanroll said:Nikolai said:I have Fly bars on my Nytro and I'm in the middle of putting RSI heating elements on. Tried searching and sounds like most people are using stock bars. Since aluminum bars are a big heat soak I'm leaning towards wiring them blue/red. I'm curious how other people with aluminum bars and RSI warmers are wiring them?
Thanks
I had the RSI heaters and grips last year on stock bars and loved them, this year I have RSI bars and the same setup with the heaters. I wired mine with the blue/red together and can tell you at 3-4 bars they are very warm, never ran them past that all year. In your case you are not using the factory controls and just a switch, I think if you wired them together all the time it would melt your grips!! Your other option would be to get a 3way switch and have the availibilty to go from hi/lo/off that way you can put them on hi and when they get to hot switch them to lo to maintain the heat. JM2C
I don't have factory controls but It doesn't change anything for me, I'll still be able to cycle through the settings like stock. Are the RSI elements any warmer than the stock ones if you wire them blue/white?
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nikolai said:I don't have factory controls but It doesn't change anything for me, I'll still be able to cycle through the settings like stock. Are the RSI elements any warmer than the stock ones if you wire them blue/white?
With the RED/BLUE wire combination the resistance thru the heater is about 3.2-Ohms. The stock heater elements provide about 7-Ohms resistance. This translates to about twice the wattage (~21W vs. ~45W at 12V) output per grip from the RSI units. This calculation does not take into account the variation from the pulsed current delivery, but both systems would be affected equally by this influence.
The RSI units wired with the RED and BLUE combined will get hotter under similar circumstances, but this is pushing the output of the design and may reduce their longevity.
stopdropanroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nikolai said:stopdropanroll said:Nikolai said:I have Fly bars on my Nytro and I'm in the middle of putting RSI heating elements on. Tried searching and sounds like most people are using stock bars. Since aluminum bars are a big heat soak I'm leaning towards wiring them blue/red. I'm curious how other people with aluminum bars and RSI warmers are wiring them?
Thanks
I had the RSI heaters and grips last year on stock bars and loved them, this year I have RSI bars and the same setup with the heaters. I wired mine with the blue/red together and can tell you at 3-4 bars they are very warm, never ran them past that all year. In your case you are not using the factory controls and just a switch, I think if you wired them together all the time it would melt your grips!! Your other option would be to get a 3way switch and have the availibilty to go from hi/lo/off that way you can put them on hi and when they get to hot switch them to lo to maintain the heat. JM2C
I don't have factory controls but It doesn't change anything for me, I'll still be able to cycle through the settings like stock. Are the RSI elements any warmer than the stock ones if you wire them blue/white?
Don't know never tried them like that, all I know is the way stated above^^^ just plain works, I see that the upgrade kit in the 2010 Yami parts catolog looks just like the RSI stuff!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'll just add a little resistor and wire them blue/red.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
I hope not to turn this into a 40-page thread, but if you add a resistor it will increase the load going through the ECU. This may be a boogie monster but nobody we know knows the limit for current to the grips through the ECU.
If you want to be really clever, put two RSI elements on each grip. Wire each set in parallel with one running on the 6-ohm leg and the other on the 12-ohm leg. This combination will increase the resistance over the RED/BLUE scheme on a single heater and decrease your amp load thru the ECU. The result will be a setup of about 4-ohms and 40W per grip - if memory serves. Plus all four heater elements will be running within their design range. I'm running the stock heater with an RSI on each grip of my sled now - no resistors. Works great.
Or you can go with Rock's system that will give you a super-high mode that bypasses the on-off ECU power cycle.
If you want to be really clever, put two RSI elements on each grip. Wire each set in parallel with one running on the 6-ohm leg and the other on the 12-ohm leg. This combination will increase the resistance over the RED/BLUE scheme on a single heater and decrease your amp load thru the ECU. The result will be a setup of about 4-ohms and 40W per grip - if memory serves. Plus all four heater elements will be running within their design range. I'm running the stock heater with an RSI on each grip of my sled now - no resistors. Works great.
Or you can go with Rock's system that will give you a super-high mode that bypasses the on-off ECU power cycle.
snirt
Extreme
i ran my rsi heaters with the white and blue together at the beginning of last year and they were still not hot enough,so i switched them to red to blue and they were plenty toasty, good cheap fix imo....but teex is right ,this could turn into another long thread!!!!!
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
RSI heated grips
Need some help: Installed RSI heated grips on 08 Nytro, as I heard good things. After installation per RSI instructions, I went thru the test mode on the speedo unit, and the elements heated right up. However, once I put everything together and started the machine, I got an error code that popped up, I believe it was 81 (last winter, so..), but the Yami did not like what it was seeing in the grip wiring??? So, it did not allow juice to the elements. Go in test mode, heat right up. The only thing that I can think of is that I cut the stock wiring way back, under the handlebar cover, so as to hide my work.. I did not cut the stock wiring right at the or even close to the elements. I did notice something in the stock wiring that might have been an in-line resistor??? Perhaps I removed this when I cut the stock wiring? Anyhow, rode the last month with no heated grips, after much frustration trying to figure it all out, with no such luck. Any advice would be helpful.. Before I just spend the bucks and go back to the crappy stock set-up.
Need some help: Installed RSI heated grips on 08 Nytro, as I heard good things. After installation per RSI instructions, I went thru the test mode on the speedo unit, and the elements heated right up. However, once I put everything together and started the machine, I got an error code that popped up, I believe it was 81 (last winter, so..), but the Yami did not like what it was seeing in the grip wiring??? So, it did not allow juice to the elements. Go in test mode, heat right up. The only thing that I can think of is that I cut the stock wiring way back, under the handlebar cover, so as to hide my work.. I did not cut the stock wiring right at the or even close to the elements. I did notice something in the stock wiring that might have been an in-line resistor??? Perhaps I removed this when I cut the stock wiring? Anyhow, rode the last month with no heated grips, after much frustration trying to figure it all out, with no such luck. Any advice would be helpful.. Before I just spend the bucks and go back to the crappy stock set-up.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
The error code (81 or 84, I forget too) means the system is not seeing a load in at least one grip. Double check your wiring, connections and the resistance thru each heater element while they are disconnected from the rest of the system. Obviously, the resistance measurement should be the very close in each grip. The worst case would be one of the heater elements is bad. The more likely problem is a faulty connection.
Where did you mount the RSI heaters, directly on the bars?
I don't know of any in-line resistor in the stock circuit.
What's the test mode?
Where did you mount the RSI heaters, directly on the bars?
I don't know of any in-line resistor in the stock circuit.
What's the test mode?
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
RSI heated grips
I am going on some memory here, because I went thru this last season and just bringing my Nytro back into my shop now. I ride motorcycles, so it never ends. Anyhow, at the time, I did check all connections, had the resistance thru each element, and nothing was making sense, causing my frustration and finally just giving up. The test mode was something that was in the service manual, and you go into diagnostic mode thru the speedometer. Turns out there is an area that you can test many circuits on the machine, to check that they are within prescribed parameteres (in stead of using a meter on each).. One circuit that is available to test is the heated grips. As mentioned, when using that, they heat up.. I would think this confirmed my connections and such, but I also double checked. I even reversed wiring to RSI, and again no luck. The stock elements come with maybe 2 ft. of pigtail and then a pin connector to main harness. I think RSI advised to snip the stock wires close to the elements, this is the only thing that I did not follow. I thought, let me snip the wire down lower, and hide my work, whats the difference. But, I seem to remember that one of the stock wires (of 2 on each side) had an in-line bump in the wire, you know like maybe an in-line fuse or maybe a resistor... But, that was the only thing I did differently then per the instructions. I spent hours & hours last year trying to figure it out, it drove me nuts. I think, using the diagnostic test mode, the machine might just send juice, with no parameters. Then, when I go back to regular running mode, I think the computer is checking some type of parameter in that circuit, whether that be resistance or amperage, and it does not like what it sees, so it does not send the power aand then gives me the error message.... I think, but I can not confirm. Arrgghhh!!! Sorry for the novel.
I am going on some memory here, because I went thru this last season and just bringing my Nytro back into my shop now. I ride motorcycles, so it never ends. Anyhow, at the time, I did check all connections, had the resistance thru each element, and nothing was making sense, causing my frustration and finally just giving up. The test mode was something that was in the service manual, and you go into diagnostic mode thru the speedometer. Turns out there is an area that you can test many circuits on the machine, to check that they are within prescribed parameteres (in stead of using a meter on each).. One circuit that is available to test is the heated grips. As mentioned, when using that, they heat up.. I would think this confirmed my connections and such, but I also double checked. I even reversed wiring to RSI, and again no luck. The stock elements come with maybe 2 ft. of pigtail and then a pin connector to main harness. I think RSI advised to snip the stock wires close to the elements, this is the only thing that I did not follow. I thought, let me snip the wire down lower, and hide my work, whats the difference. But, I seem to remember that one of the stock wires (of 2 on each side) had an in-line bump in the wire, you know like maybe an in-line fuse or maybe a resistor... But, that was the only thing I did differently then per the instructions. I spent hours & hours last year trying to figure it out, it drove me nuts. I think, using the diagnostic test mode, the machine might just send juice, with no parameters. Then, when I go back to regular running mode, I think the computer is checking some type of parameter in that circuit, whether that be resistance or amperage, and it does not like what it sees, so it does not send the power aand then gives me the error message.... I think, but I can not confirm. Arrgghhh!!! Sorry for the novel.
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
I got carried away and forgot to answer one of your questions. I stuck the elements right on the bars.. I work pretty meticously, so the bars were cleaned and connectons were made pretty good.. I dont sodder, but rather use good butt connectors with proper crimping tool (MAC $100). Can not pull wire out of connector when Im done, even in a vise.
called Yamaha to ask, is that an in-line resistor in the stock wire? but, no one seems to be able to answer this question. There was definitely something in-line on the one wire. You know, the tech guys even at the manufacturers end of phone are not as useful as they use to be.. You know, 10-15 years ago, you got someone with 20+ years experience, nowadays, guy just got the position, was transferred over from the piano division.. Yeah, Im old school. And yes, this problem is embarrassing for me, BUT, I want warm hands when Im pounded the trails.
called Yamaha to ask, is that an in-line resistor in the stock wire? but, no one seems to be able to answer this question. There was definitely something in-line on the one wire. You know, the tech guys even at the manufacturers end of phone are not as useful as they use to be.. You know, 10-15 years ago, you got someone with 20+ years experience, nowadays, guy just got the position, was transferred over from the piano division.. Yeah, Im old school. And yes, this problem is embarrassing for me, BUT, I want warm hands when Im pounded the trails.
stopdropanroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
Have you tryed to cut the wires and hook the RSI's up to a stand alone power source to see if they function properly?
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