arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
You could try unpluging both heater elements under the hood and running a 5-6 ohm power resistor across the power supply lines. If the error code goes away you'll know the problem is in the heaters or the wiring leading to them. If the error code stays, you're probably screwed and I can't help with that.
One last idea, are you positive that someone didn't wire in a grip to the thumb heater when you weren't looking?
One last idea, are you positive that someone didn't wire in a grip to the thumb heater when you weren't looking?
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
No, I did not try that for a couple of reasons. As I mentioned, when using the diagnostic test mode, they do work, they heat up quickly.. Based on that, I thought that confirmed my installation was correct, as far as wiring and connections.
Also, I want to hook up thru the Yamaha set-up so that I have the stock controller still useful to control the heat.
I'm wondering if anyone else who has installed these RSI elements cut the stock wires where I did, close to the stock pin connectors, which is about 1-2 feet from the elements? Or, has everyone cut the wires close (within 2-3") to the heating elements.
Im pulling it back into the shop this weekend, and will get familiar with it again. Its been awhile since I have seen her.
Also, I want to hook up thru the Yamaha set-up so that I have the stock controller still useful to control the heat.
I'm wondering if anyone else who has installed these RSI elements cut the stock wires where I did, close to the stock pin connectors, which is about 1-2 feet from the elements? Or, has everyone cut the wires close (within 2-3") to the heating elements.
Im pulling it back into the shop this weekend, and will get familiar with it again. Its been awhile since I have seen her.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
As posted earlier; I'm running BOTH the stock and RSI heaters on each grip per the scheme shown in the attachment below. However, I made the splice for the RSI heaters near the connectors as you have. At one point in my experiment I used only the RSI heaters. The system did not throw a code with just the RSI units, nor when I added the stock heaters back. The only time I saw a code was if the heaters were completely disconnected from the circuit.
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
Arteex, I've been working on everything but the grips. Machine totally striped down again, shocks sent out. Warranty: Exhaust header and gaskets (welds broke at header brkt), new ball joints (third time) 3500 miles.. Had to remove A-arms this time around, as one is putting up a fight and doesnt want to come out..
Anyhow: back to the grips, which I will get back to shortly.. You mentioned that at one point you did get the error code (81 I think) from your machine when your elements were disconnected.. After that, after you reconnected your elements to the stock wiring, did the code just go away, or did you have to reset.. Im enjoying the mechanical work that I am presently performing, but, I am not looking forward to jumping back into these grips, they drove me nuts last year.. So bad, that I rode the last month with no heaters.... I did measure continuity thru my RSI elements, all is good. Also, checked the resistance between Blue/Wht and Red, adn then Red/blue and wht (again, kind of not sure, but the two ways people were hooking them up), and one way I got 3.3 ohms and the other way I got 6.6 ohms (again, I think).. Forgive me, its been over 2 weeks now, and I've banged my head a few times, pretty hard.. But, what Im getting at is that the RSI elements tested OK. Which way do you reccomend wiring them into the stock harness.. Appreciate your advice, as you sound like you know your electrical diagnostics.. Me, Im a gear head.. And, who the hell has the time to polish their tunnels????? Lets ride man... From KTM to Harley To Triumph to track day ZX-7, I ain't polishin, Im beating the hell out of em.. Luckily, I can rebuild them better then they were.. Now, If I could just get these damn heated grips..............
Anyhow: back to the grips, which I will get back to shortly.. You mentioned that at one point you did get the error code (81 I think) from your machine when your elements were disconnected.. After that, after you reconnected your elements to the stock wiring, did the code just go away, or did you have to reset.. Im enjoying the mechanical work that I am presently performing, but, I am not looking forward to jumping back into these grips, they drove me nuts last year.. So bad, that I rode the last month with no heaters.... I did measure continuity thru my RSI elements, all is good. Also, checked the resistance between Blue/Wht and Red, adn then Red/blue and wht (again, kind of not sure, but the two ways people were hooking them up), and one way I got 3.3 ohms and the other way I got 6.6 ohms (again, I think).. Forgive me, its been over 2 weeks now, and I've banged my head a few times, pretty hard.. But, what Im getting at is that the RSI elements tested OK. Which way do you reccomend wiring them into the stock harness.. Appreciate your advice, as you sound like you know your electrical diagnostics.. Me, Im a gear head.. And, who the hell has the time to polish their tunnels????? Lets ride man... From KTM to Harley To Triumph to track day ZX-7, I ain't polishin, Im beating the hell out of em.. Luckily, I can rebuild them better then they were.. Now, If I could just get these damn heated grips..............
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Wow. You know I charge by the word, right?
There's no reset necessary to remove the error code. When you have the grips properly connected (and they’re in working order) the code will go away.
To be clear; you do intend to run BOTH the RSI and stock heaters on your sled? If not the stuff in the next paragraph won't apply.
You must have measured the 3.3-Ohm reading across the RED/BLUE and WHITE combination, the 6.6-Ohms should have come from the BLUE/WHITE and RED. Do one more check across the BLUE and RED only, leave the WHITE lead out of the loop. This should measure about 12-Ohms. This is the wire set that you want to connect to the circuit with the stock heaters. BTW, the stock heaters should read about 7-Ohms each if they are functioning.
If you plan to run ONLY the RSI units, what some folks have done is wire the RED and BLUE combination to one leg of the supply line and the WHITE lead to the other. This is the highest possible output from the RSI heaters but it’s going to push them beyond their design limits and draw a lot more current from the system – about 4X what the stock units do. It’s this last part that always had me worried. The higher current draw by the heaters may stress the ECU or starve other systems (i.e. the fuel injection) of power. I have no data to support these concerns but I also have no reason to risk a $500 ECU.
If you’ve removed the stock grips or they’re faulty and want to stay on the conservative side, I suggest buying another set of RSI heaters. Connect the 12+ Ohm leg of one unit with the 6+ Ohm leg of the other for each grip. Then connect each two-heater assembly to their respective supply lines under the hood. This will give good results and not add too much additional load to the system.
Too much?
PM me if you need additional details – or fewer details.
There's no reset necessary to remove the error code. When you have the grips properly connected (and they’re in working order) the code will go away.
To be clear; you do intend to run BOTH the RSI and stock heaters on your sled? If not the stuff in the next paragraph won't apply.
You must have measured the 3.3-Ohm reading across the RED/BLUE and WHITE combination, the 6.6-Ohms should have come from the BLUE/WHITE and RED. Do one more check across the BLUE and RED only, leave the WHITE lead out of the loop. This should measure about 12-Ohms. This is the wire set that you want to connect to the circuit with the stock heaters. BTW, the stock heaters should read about 7-Ohms each if they are functioning.
If you plan to run ONLY the RSI units, what some folks have done is wire the RED and BLUE combination to one leg of the supply line and the WHITE lead to the other. This is the highest possible output from the RSI heaters but it’s going to push them beyond their design limits and draw a lot more current from the system – about 4X what the stock units do. It’s this last part that always had me worried. The higher current draw by the heaters may stress the ECU or starve other systems (i.e. the fuel injection) of power. I have no data to support these concerns but I also have no reason to risk a $500 ECU.
If you’ve removed the stock grips or they’re faulty and want to stay on the conservative side, I suggest buying another set of RSI heaters. Connect the 12+ Ohm leg of one unit with the 6+ Ohm leg of the other for each grip. Then connect each two-heater assembly to their respective supply lines under the hood. This will give good results and not add too much additional load to the system.
Too much?
PM me if you need additional details – or fewer details.
triumph54
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2008
- Messages
- 25
Arteeex,
Got the warmers working, not really sure how, but they are working... Go figure, they fixed themselves over the summer, I'll take it. Started off by again, checking the RSI warmers, and they tested good. I hooked them back up to stock wiring per the RSI instructions Blue&white to one leg and red to the other. That I went into the diagnostic mode on the speedo again. YOu asked about, the test Mode.. Section 7, page 7 of the Yamaha service manual gives this information, you can test many circuits using the speedo,very nice.. Same as my new HD. The tested good, warmed up. I then turned main switch on, which automatically pulls you out of diagnostic mode, and sure enough, the error code was still blinking 81. I started the machine, and to my amazement, the error code cleared after about 10 seconds.. I checked during the diagnostic test mode, and the ECU sends 10.6 Volts to the warmers. It must bypass the headlight/ECU. So, thanks for your help, and it appears that I will have warmer hands this year.
Got the warmers working, not really sure how, but they are working... Go figure, they fixed themselves over the summer, I'll take it. Started off by again, checking the RSI warmers, and they tested good. I hooked them back up to stock wiring per the RSI instructions Blue&white to one leg and red to the other. That I went into the diagnostic mode on the speedo again. YOu asked about, the test Mode.. Section 7, page 7 of the Yamaha service manual gives this information, you can test many circuits using the speedo,very nice.. Same as my new HD. The tested good, warmed up. I then turned main switch on, which automatically pulls you out of diagnostic mode, and sure enough, the error code was still blinking 81. I started the machine, and to my amazement, the error code cleared after about 10 seconds.. I checked during the diagnostic test mode, and the ECU sends 10.6 Volts to the warmers. It must bypass the headlight/ECU. So, thanks for your help, and it appears that I will have warmer hands this year.