How do I change the drive belt of my RX-1 ? Is it an easy job that can be done without tools? Is it common the belt breaks down under way?
I figured this is something that I should be able to do even though I am not a technical person at all.
I figured this is something that I should be able to do even though I am not a technical person at all.
Fourcam281
Expert
You can do it by hand. Start by getting one part off the secondary and rotate it and it will keep coming more and more off. Just like you would have put a chain back on a single speed bike.
YammyRX1
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I found that I had to use a couple of wrenches (12mm?) on the outer bolts to turn the secondary and this gives you enough belt slack to slip it over the outside. You are not loosening the bolts, just using the wrenches on them for leverage. I've heard a lot of guys say that it is easy but I didn't think so, maybe I'm doing something wrong but after a lot of grunting it worked in the end. You can buy a tool that compresses the secondary spring and that would makes things a lot easier in my opinion.
thrasher
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I agree, not much room in there to change the belt with no tools at -20 on the side of the trail. The 12mm wrench works well, I used to use that trick on my Vector. My used Warrior came with a quick change tool on the secondary, it works great. I guess it was on there because I blow a belt every 600 miles like clock work. The tool worked so well I bought one for my Vector as well, fortunately it gets at least 2000 miles per belt. Tools were available from Ulmer which at present are sold out, or from Rich Motorsports under clutching/clutch tools. Worth every cent!
You should be getting way more miles out of a belt with the RX1... Tip #1 is to engage park brake, easyer to rotate and push in on the helix wile pulling up on the belt.
thrasher
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Yes, belt life should be better. It's under investigation. Need snow to test, looks like winter has finally arrived here.
richierich
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Sometimes they are easy and you can do it by hand and other times you swear alot trying to change it.If you want to make it easy on yourself.I sell these.
$42 shipped to Finland
http://www.richmotorsports.com/store/vi ... YAMKCHSW37
$42 shipped to Finland
http://www.richmotorsports.com/store/vi ... YAMKCHSW37
buddah
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If you have any kinds of problems with strength in the fingers, like say arthritis, richierich's tool can be a lifesaver. WELL worth the price. Even us OF's can change a belt easily.
dhkr123
Expert
Arthritics and other infirmities not withstanding, the young and strong should certainly be able to do a belt change without any kind of tools.
There are some tricks to it;
1) it is easier (but not required) if you take the side panel off the sled (if applicable).
2) You don't just pull at the belt as hard as you can -- this is a waste of energy. It might come off like that, but there is an easier way.
3) Press the belt DOWN INTO the SECONDARY clutch with your RIGHT hand, while turning the BACK SHEAVE CLOCKWISE with your left. You can also wiggle the sheave back and forth as you're doing this. It may be necessary to flip the parking brake on while doing this.
*alternatively, only for belt REMOVAL, pull UP on the middle of the belt with your left hand while wiggling the back face of the driven sheave with your right. This should draw the belt UP into the sheave from the bottom, allowing you to pull the belt off the driven sheave easily from the top.
Spreading the clutch faces by wedging the belt down into it provides you with the slack you need to get the belt on or off easily.
You do the same thing whether removing a bad belt or installing a new one. Wedge one part of the belt down into the sheave in order to spread it.
There are some tricks to it;
1) it is easier (but not required) if you take the side panel off the sled (if applicable).
2) You don't just pull at the belt as hard as you can -- this is a waste of energy. It might come off like that, but there is an easier way.
3) Press the belt DOWN INTO the SECONDARY clutch with your RIGHT hand, while turning the BACK SHEAVE CLOCKWISE with your left. You can also wiggle the sheave back and forth as you're doing this. It may be necessary to flip the parking brake on while doing this.
*alternatively, only for belt REMOVAL, pull UP on the middle of the belt with your left hand while wiggling the back face of the driven sheave with your right. This should draw the belt UP into the sheave from the bottom, allowing you to pull the belt off the driven sheave easily from the top.
Spreading the clutch faces by wedging the belt down into it provides you with the slack you need to get the belt on or off easily.
You do the same thing whether removing a bad belt or installing a new one. Wedge one part of the belt down into the sheave in order to spread it.
dhkr123
Expert
thrasher: 600 miles on an OEM belt sounds pretty good to me. They're too slick and burn easily. Your vector is geared lower, so less stress on the belt and longer lasting.
Other's might get longer belt life, but by driving like pussies.
Other's might get longer belt life, but by driving like pussies.
MNBlizzard
Expert
thrasher said:I guess it was on there because I blow a belt every 600 miles like clock work. The tool worked so well I bought one for my Vector as well, fortunately it gets at least 2000 miles per belt. Tools were available from Ulmer which at present are sold out, or from Rich Motorsports under clutching/clutch tools. Worth every cent!
Whoa, hold the horses. You are replacing a $50 belt every 600 miles?! Not sure what you are doing but that belt should go thousands of miles on stock sleds. Better look into it.
dhkr123
Expert
MNBlizzard drives like a pussy 
grader
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if you only get 600 miles out of a belt then your driving a skidoo. proper spec yamahas go thousands of miles on a stock oem belt, and then the belts are worn (32mm).
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has the war been clutched?
mine burned belts untill i threw ulmers clutching in it and now it only burns belts if i am towing another sled or doing a lot of manuvering between the trees at low speeds.
brother got an 04 war with stock clutching and it is way softer than ulmers.
mine burned belts untill i threw ulmers clutching in it and now it only burns belts if i am towing another sled or doing a lot of manuvering between the trees at low speeds.
brother got an 04 war with stock clutching and it is way softer than ulmers.
richierich
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I would suggest you check your alignment if your only getting 600 miles out of a 8dn belt.Are you blowing them or just think they are worn.
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