Secondary clutch question and RPM's

RX-1snow

Extreme
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
54
Reaction score
0
Points
556
Location
Newfoundland, Can.
I removed my secondary clutch yesterday to tighten my spring 10 degrees and noticed a spacer left on my workbench, I wasn't sure where it belongs. I put it on the jackshaft because it was the exact fit . I noticed there was one on already, now there are 2 spacers on my jackshaft before I put on my secondary .

Does anyone know if this is correct??

Also , I am trying to raise my RPM's to accomodate my 1.25 inch lug track (aftermarket).

Will drilling out the rivet in the tip of the weights help much???

I asked this question a few days ago but got no answer. All replies are appreciated.
 
Yes & yes

You are right on both accounts. The spacer goes on the shaft before you put the clutch on. Sometimes a little grease will cause it to stick to the secondary and it will come off with the clutch and then fall off when you set the clutch down.
Removing weight from the tip will increase RPM's.
 
secondary clutch and RPM's

Morning Rx-1snow, I have the same issues, I converted my shortie into a warrior and wanted more RPM's. So I went to a dealer that I have bought a sled from that is really knowledgeable about setting up this sled and asked him what to do without spending a lot . of course he has a kit that will do a lot for 500. but if you want to do it in short bursts you can drill the stock rivet with a 3/16 bit [this will get you just a small increase in RPM] then he recommended a different helix that would give me 300 to 400 rpm increase the one he recomended for my 136 x 1.25 was a 47/ 43 tha6s@ $90[ stock is 51/43 in a shorty], last year when I had just bought my shorty he gave me a diferent primary spring to try, (I think green white green, but I have to check) it was a lot quicker then stock.of course you can change primary wheights completely, and modify your air box,change your carburator springs, and change yor jets, and don't forget the turbo or the 1100cc engine mods with race cams and sprockets. Personally when I get off my dirt bike which gives me thrills at 30 to 40 and start doing 80,90,100, I wonder about needing more RPM,s I seem to like doing it in stages, that way I can appreciate what the mods have done. By the way I bought the helix and installed it last week, I want to try it before I drill out the rivet, should snow today :lol: good luck, enjoy your addiction .
 
good morning guys,
Horseman, Let us know how that helix works. I'm done playing with the primary and going to start playing with different helixes and gearing now. Isn't the warrior geared down compaired to the standard shorty?
 
RX-1snow,
If you choose to lighten your wieghts by drilling, you should use a scale and record the individual wieghts prior to and after. One may way more from the get-go but they should be exact when completed.
 
Thanks for the replies .

Any idea what rpm will increase by removing tip rivet?? I think its 17.2 mm steel.

Would putting in larger diameter rollers be a better option??? I priced the rollers and they are ~ $ 40.00 each (can) ,.. not cheap. Thanks again for all your experience.
 
I matched all the arms on my heel clickers. I was told when I called heel clickers that .3 grams is about 200 rpm. I could be wrong. I went to a shop that sells things like bongs for smoking and picked up a hand held gram scale. It was about $40, I got all my arms the exact same weight. I also weighed out the originals and they were not all the same. get a scale and start with matching all the weight. then start to take some weight off. I think you can get those scales from radio shack too. you can get the phone number for heel clicker from their web site and give them a call. They have always been good to me. their web site is supertorquer.com



RX-1snow said:
Thanks for the replies .

Any idea what rpm will increase by removing tip rivet?? I think its 17.2 mm steel.

Would putting in larger diameter rollers be a better option??? I priced the rollers and they are ~ $ 40.00 each (can) ,.. not cheap. Thanks again for all your experience.
 
Do not completely remove the top rivet....your rpm will be way to high…You may even wind up with a lot of belt slip....That factory rivet weighs 3.6 grams….I think that is a lot to remove…Some of the guys on here recommended to me that I increase my helix from the stock 3-3 (60) to 6-2 (80)....It works great...I am about to leave for a ride today with

• Stock primary
• Stock rivets
• 23-38 gearing
• Silver secondary wound to 6-2= 80 deg
• 1.25 Camoplast 9833 track

I will let you know how it turns out (RPM wise)


JD
 
Weight!

What I have been told is that 1 gram of weight taken off the tip of each clutch weight equals 200-300 rpms. So if your running 9900 rpms at top end then 1 gram of tip weight off should bring you up to 10,100- 10,200. You want to go atleast to 10,300 thats where it pulls the horse power for top end speed.
 
Thanks guys . Excellent info. I will try a lighter rivet weight . The tip weight is a 17.2 steel which weighs 4.5 grams. I will remove it and replace with a lighter weight if my rpm's exceed 10500. I will let you know the results.
 
I changed my Warrior secondary to an 80 deg twist, and on a lake in Canada 5 Deg farenheit that day I saw almost 10500RPM on the tach!

I LIKE IT TOO :D :shock: 8)
 


Back
Top