secondary clutch spring location

[needspd]

I have installed a Shockwave adjustable helix on my 06 Apex. Insead of being able to gain rpms I have lost 1000 with the helix screwed all the way in. I think it just might be the spring hole that I am using. Does anyone know what holes I should be using. Or am I way off and I should be looking somewhere else.

 

[Turk]

You should be at 3 & 3 or 6 & 1. Remember that to tighten the helix you must twist it "Clockwise" & then tighten it up.

 

[needspd]

I have it turned all the way clockwise, but what differance would I see if I used 3 and 3 compared to 6 and 1 ? I seen the numbers on the shockwave helix but i dont remember seeing numbers on the secondary clutch, is there a way to tell which is which. I am guessing the 6 is on the helix and the 1 is on the clutch.Thanks a bunch for the help.

 

[snowy1]

the three holes on the clutch are numdered 1-2-3 so you add the number on the helix with the number on the clutch together, so if you use the 3 on the clutch and the 3 on the helix, you get 60 degrees, 6 on the helix and 1 on the clutch is 70 degrees, the higher the total number the tighter the spring more rmp, lower the total number less pressure faster shift out less rpm

 

[needspd]

Thanks that will be real helpful. what is the relation between degrees and rpms, is it more repms for more degrees or vice versa, and what else will this affect.

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

Thanks that will be real helpful. what is the relation between degrees and rpms, is it more repms for more degrees or vice versa, and what else will this affect.

More degrees equals more twist on the spring. The higher the twist on the spring; the higher RPMs you'll see because you won't get a full shift out to overdrive on the secondary.

It also controls how quick the clutches back shift when seeing a load (climbing, sudden change from spinning track to traction etc.) More back shift equals lower speed on hard pack because the clutches can't fully shift to overdrive.

Jim

 

[needspd]

Thanks again for the info. I am new to the sport but have been learing a ton thanks to the forums.

 

[needspd]

I took the sled out today I have moved the the spring to the 3 and 3 position I still can't get any extra rpms and when I was in higher altitude I was only seeing about 9500 I could get about 10500 when I dropped about a 1000 ft but now my belt is slipping at lower rpms, like when I first take off or when ever i have a load on the sled at slow speeds. So whats the next step, before I pull out what hair I have left.

 

[Yakuza]

I'm no expert......but you might want to lighten up your primary weights (remove rivets) and 80* on your secondary spring-#2 on the Clutch Body and #6 on the Helix. I would try experimenting. Hope this helps.

 

[needspd]

I havent messed with the primary clutch before, how do I go about removing the rivet and how many do I remove and just because I am trying to learn as much as possible I have to ask what will removing or adding weight to the primary do? Thanks for the help.

 

[errol]

I'm no expert either but I would try a different primary spring first! Cheap and easy to install!

I also have a shockwave helix and did not experiment any drop in RPM after installing it! I'm right now at 46-38 on my helix but will go to 51-43 next week to do some test!

But I mostly ride between 2000-3000 feet and my clutch setup is different than yours for sure since I'm using de 89L as ramps!

Errol

 

[needspd]

what spring should I try first (more tention or less) thanks.

 

[errol]

Well, if you look at a spring chart, the spring rate and the total force controls clutch shift RPM!

If you want to raise your RPM you go higher in spring rate!

Go to http://www.totallyamaha.com

under the section tech pages and you will find a lot of information regarding clutching!

Errol

 

[Yakuza]

I havent messed with the primary clutch before, how do I go about removing the rivet and how many do I remove and just because I am trying to learn as much as possible I have to ask what will removing or adding weight to the primary do? Thanks for the help.

Here's how I removed my Weights from the primary clutch:

Remove belt.
Remove 6 cover bolts.
Loosen 2 allen screws that secures the bolt that holds the weight.
Remove the nut and bolt but be carefull not to loose the 2 plastic washers.
Place the weight (stamped numbers and letters facing you)on a secure surface and spike out the rivets. Obviously you'll need a hole underneath the rivet.
Tighten the 6 cover bolts 10# each.

From what I understand, maybe someone would correct me, the more weight the more force and the less weight the more load through RPM.

I would PM Trxster and Frosbite for more info. They seem to have more riding time on the Shockwave.

Below is a tool from MPI. Hope this helps.

http://mountainperformance.com/yamaha_s ... _tools.htm

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

When you installed the shockwave helix; did you put the spring in the holes and then turn the helix assembly (not the dial) clockwise so there is tension against the spring? If not; this is the problem. With the spring set at 70 degrees twist it should be a slight pain in the a$$ to get the holes in the helix assembly over the studs on the secondary sheeve. The more twist you add the harder it will be to accomplish this. It took me 40 minutes of cussing to get my pink secondary spring twisted 60 degrees vs. my stock white spring taking 30 minutes of cussing to get 70 degrees of twist.

If yours was easy going back together with little effort or cussing, and I'd be willing to bet this is the case (happened to me first time changing spring twist); this is the reason it's slipping. The sheeves are pushing apart but the spring isn't keeping the buttons pushed up tight against the ramp on the helix.

Once you get the spring twisted like it should be; I'm betting you'll need to back the adjustment dial out about 2 turns (giving you a 50 deg. angle on the ramps) to get close to the RPMs and back shift you'll need. From there you can adjust in or out to dial in the back shift and RPMs for the load conditions.


Jim