Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I didn't want to post this in the Ski section, because I'd like feedback specifically from Vector owners.
Has anybody out there shimmed their skis? How much shim did you add and where? What if any difference did you notice.
I shimmed mine last night after putting on a new set of 6" Doolies (had them from early last year). With the Doolies being curved to match the ski profile, it's a little hard for me to tell whats right or wrong.
Per Bergstrom's specs, I put a .250 shim in the back of the rubber stop to get the front of the carbides off of the ground. They're off the ground a bit, and I'll try it there during my ride that's coming up tomorrow and Wednesday.
Bergstrom says that if you're darting, you likely have too much pressure in the front, and if it's pushing, too much pressure in the back. I dont know if this applies to Doolies, but my sled acts exactly the opposite, so I'm not sure if I should have ADDED more front pressure, as I'd like to try to dial out the little bit of push I have.
THe carbides were pretty worn, which in the icy corner conditions we have here in northern WI wont help the pushing.
Just wondering what y'all have done out there!
Has anybody out there shimmed their skis? How much shim did you add and where? What if any difference did you notice.
I shimmed mine last night after putting on a new set of 6" Doolies (had them from early last year). With the Doolies being curved to match the ski profile, it's a little hard for me to tell whats right or wrong.
Per Bergstrom's specs, I put a .250 shim in the back of the rubber stop to get the front of the carbides off of the ground. They're off the ground a bit, and I'll try it there during my ride that's coming up tomorrow and Wednesday.
Bergstrom says that if you're darting, you likely have too much pressure in the front, and if it's pushing, too much pressure in the back. I dont know if this applies to Doolies, but my sled acts exactly the opposite, so I'm not sure if I should have ADDED more front pressure, as I'd like to try to dial out the little bit of push I have.
THe carbides were pretty worn, which in the icy corner conditions we have here in northern WI wont help the pushing.
Just wondering what y'all have done out there!
Wonder which ski company is going to wake up and make a ski that sits properly for the sled it is going to be installed on. In other words supply the shims or whatever to have the skis sit properly when installed. The best would be that the skis sit proper from the design of the ski in the first place.
Tabor Rider 973
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I just put on some duallies also with some push on my Venture. It tracks way straighter down the trail and turns much easier. I think you will get push in the corners with wider surface not sinking in as far,kinda a tradeoff. I'm not sure about the Vector skid but I read that the control rods set to least transfer,all the way to the red paint, gives more weight to the front with better steering.Also firming up the rear suspension or pulling up the limiter strap a notch can help.A buddy of mine put on regular 6 inch carbides and he is very happy with his handling.(on his Vector 05)
Flipper
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I took the Doolys off me Vector because I did not like the push. I had the 6" versions and I have 144 studs up the center. They tracked nice and straight as you said.
I tried the Studboy 9" shaper bars and love them. Much more precise and confident in the corners. I did get quite a bit of darting which was very noticalbe after coming off the Doolys.
To help offset the darting I used the shim trick. I believe I put ~ 1/8 of an inch shim on each side. This helped to settle down the darting quite a bit.
I am now very happy with this setup.
I tried the Studboy 9" shaper bars and love them. Much more precise and confident in the corners. I did get quite a bit of darting which was very noticalbe after coming off the Doolys.
To help offset the darting I used the shim trick. I believe I put ~ 1/8 of an inch shim on each side. This helped to settle down the darting quite a bit.
I am now very happy with this setup.
Just had to give you this tip. I was fighting darting like crazy. I checked the alignment and it was way out. Wonder how many of us do the same thing and never check the alignment?
The tip off for me is I wiped out my ATV and the next time I brought it up to 35MPH then it was all over the place and way out of align. Applied that to the snowmobile and Voila!
It is a good starting point if nothing else.
The tip off for me is I wiped out my ATV and the next time I brought it up to 35MPH then it was all over the place and way out of align. Applied that to the snowmobile and Voila!
It is a good starting point if nothing else.
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Sled Dog, It isn't the ski, it's the rubber on the ski that is incorrect. Yamaha's ski rubber puts the ski in a tipped forward attitude. When you shim the back, you move the rear of the ski and carbide down, raising the front. Think of the carbide like a caster wheel on a shopping cart. If the front digs in it wants to swing around. Simple analogy, but one that describes what is happening. I have spent lots of time talking with Scott Bergstrom about this. My Slydog skis came with a different ski rubber and I had to shim the FRONT!! You want the carbide about a 1/4' off the floor in the front when checking this in your garage. Try it, you'll like it LOL!
Dave
Dave
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Ride just under 300 miles the last 2 days and really didn't notice any difference other than the fact that I had new carbide on which really helped in the icy conditions. Sled didn't dart but it did turn better...but that's likely due to the new bars.
I'll be keeping an eye on the wear patterns on both bars.
I'll be keeping an eye on the wear patterns on both bars.
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