rick72796srx
Newbie
i have a 2004 warrior first ride was saturday in the up 300 mile day great ride but skilift is terrible i weigh 165lbs. drive like a maniac and always lead (sometimes into the trees 
) does any one know a good set up for me limiters are up with only 3/4 inch adj left carbides are worn but lift was from the getgo where can i get new front springs and what size any help would be tried out
) does any one know a good set up for me limiters are up with only 3/4 inch adj left carbides are worn but lift was from the getgo where can i get new front springs and what size any help would be tried outJDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just out of curiosity, what brand did you come to Yamaha from???
rick72796srx
Newbie
i came from yamaha srx but never had ski lift like this
ultimatewarrior
Expert
I have over 1000 miles on my Warrior. Initially, there was some ski lift. I have found that it sometimes occurs even if you lean straight out and pull hard in corner. However, through a slight change in riding style, I have been able to basically eliminate the ski lift without any adjustments to the set-up.
On a 2003 REV, it is recommended that the rider lean out and forward towards the inside ski when going into a corner. I have found this to work extremely well with the Warrior. When approaching a corner, I slide a bit forward - tight to the gas tank (I have a lot of room to do this b/c I installed the RX Mountain handle bar set on my Warrior). I then lean out and forward in the corner. This seems to balance the sled and takes care of the ski lift.
The best part is that I did not have to tighten the limiter straps, which would affect track hook-up. You may want to try a simple change in riding style. However, to do so you will probably have to raise your handle bars to create room.
On a 2003 REV, it is recommended that the rider lean out and forward towards the inside ski when going into a corner. I have found this to work extremely well with the Warrior. When approaching a corner, I slide a bit forward - tight to the gas tank (I have a lot of room to do this b/c I installed the RX Mountain handle bar set on my Warrior). I then lean out and forward in the corner. This seems to balance the sled and takes care of the ski lift.
The best part is that I did not have to tighten the limiter straps, which would affect track hook-up. You may want to try a simple change in riding style. However, to do so you will probably have to raise your handle bars to create room.
Beawarrior
Newbie
What worked for me.
I encountered the same problem as you and everyone else.I pulled up on the limiter 1/4 inch and tightened front preload 2 turns on lock nut.I also adjusted control rods to shift weight foward.This helped handle quite a bit.
Even with adjustments,I believe this sled will not corner as good as some of the other Yamaha models.It was a known tradeoff for me reliability, verses weight and I chose reliability.
I encountered the same problem as you and everyone else.I pulled up on the limiter 1/4 inch and tightened front preload 2 turns on lock nut.I also adjusted control rods to shift weight foward.This helped handle quite a bit.
Even with adjustments,I believe this sled will not corner as good as some of the other Yamaha models.It was a known tradeoff for me reliability, verses weight and I chose reliability.
spikegary
Newbie
Extenders, Straps and position
:twisted: I did the Yamaha stabilizer link extensions, tightened up the limiter strap 2.5 turns, hook up os great, but lift is still there. The shocks are already at max factory recommendations, changing my riding position has helped, but she's still lifty in the turns and even on sudden adjustments..........
:twisted: I did the Yamaha stabilizer link extensions, tightened up the limiter strap 2.5 turns, hook up os great, but lift is still there. The shocks are already at max factory recommendations, changing my riding position has helped, but she's still lifty in the turns and even on sudden adjustments..........
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You need to LOOSEN front preload. Both at skis AND at front of rear skid. For the ski springs, set preload at ZERO.
JDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ultimatewarrior said:
Exactly, and if I could add my $0.02...... slide foreward on the seat (this makes it easy to shift to the side when entering the corner), and don't close the throttle completely when coming into a sharp corner (the engine braking loads the front suspension before you even start your turn)..
Chris Velardi
Veteran
Ski lift
I have noticed here and dealers and friends that there is a great deal of confusion on front ski spring pre load ajustment... to corect ski lift (which apears to be a commen problem (for those who dont ride with their balls on the gas tank) The obvious part is what the manual says " Longer spring seat lenght = Hard( max 6.24in). Shorter spring seat lenght = Softer (Min 5.85in) now the million dollar question is does a harder or softer setting give less ski lift ?
I have noticed here and dealers and friends that there is a great deal of confusion on front ski spring pre load ajustment... to corect ski lift (which apears to be a commen problem (for those who dont ride with their balls on the gas tank) The obvious part is what the manual says " Longer spring seat lenght = Hard( max 6.24in). Shorter spring seat lenght = Softer (Min 5.85in) now the million dollar question is does a harder or softer setting give less ski lift ?
longer spring length on ski shocks will provide less lift in the corners...
RX-1snow
Extreme
Lengthen the ski springs definately. This increases the stabilizer bar preload.
I found that softening the rear skid helped alot, I put my FRA on minimum ( soft ) and main spring tension uop 3 notches from softest. Much better.
I have 6 inch woodys duallys also which are excellent and 11 mm swaybar.
Personally I feel that the weight of this sled is a main contributor to the ski lift problem and body roll in corners. The sled momentum wants to keep going straight while you try to turn. Use your body english to stay in control.
Just my opinion.
I found that softening the rear skid helped alot, I put my FRA on minimum ( soft ) and main spring tension uop 3 notches from softest. Much better.
I have 6 inch woodys duallys also which are excellent and 11 mm swaybar.
Personally I feel that the weight of this sled is a main contributor to the ski lift problem and body roll in corners. The sled momentum wants to keep going straight while you try to turn. Use your body english to stay in control.
Just my opinion.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Changing the spring preload does NOT affect the swaybar preload. In fact, the swaybar has NO PRELOAD AT ALL. It doesn't matter what you have your ride height set at since the swaybar simply connects one side to the other. It rotates freely through the bulkhead.
Lengthen/loosen springs, same as saying reduce spring preload.... effectively LOWERS the front of the sled. The lower ride height means lower COG. Lower COG = less ski lift.
Lengthen/loosen springs, same as saying reduce spring preload.... effectively LOWERS the front of the sled. The lower ride height means lower COG. Lower COG = less ski lift.
Chris Velardi
Veteran
front shock lenght
So how does one figure out how long (soft) to make the front springs? Can you get the front end too low (COG) ? What is the ride trade off of going lower (longer spring length) in the front? And anyone know of a good place to pick up Spaner wenches? (neither of the local dealers carry them.)
Thanks in advance
So how does one figure out how long (soft) to make the front springs? Can you get the front end too low (COG) ? What is the ride trade off of going lower (longer spring length) in the front? And anyone know of a good place to pick up Spaner wenches? (neither of the local dealers carry them.)
Thanks in advance
VT_BluYamaha54
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2003
- Messages
- 226
- Location
- Vermont
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Vector LTX
2004 RX-! Warrior
1984 Phazer (Antique)
Re: front shock lenght
Chris -
There is a post on this forum that is pretty good on setting up the Warrior suspension. The owner's manual is basically full of $^%^$$#. It only gives the basics. Most of us have let almost all spring pressure off frt shocks and tighten the locking collars just enough to preload the spring sufficiently to keep it snug.
Spanners: I got mine from my dealer (about 8$ ea and you need a pair). They can be ordered and PM me if you need a part #. You can also use a large punch and the appropriate hammer but be careful not to round the notches. Some might say a screwdriver is OK but I WOULDN'T - screwdriver will get toasted and it WILL ding the locking collar.
Chris Velardi said:
Chris -
There is a post on this forum that is pretty good on setting up the Warrior suspension. The owner's manual is basically full of $^%^$$#. It only gives the basics. Most of us have let almost all spring pressure off frt shocks and tighten the locking collars just enough to preload the spring sufficiently to keep it snug.
Spanners: I got mine from my dealer (about 8$ ea and you need a pair). They can be ordered and PM me if you need a part #. You can also use a large punch and the appropriate hammer but be careful not to round the notches. Some might say a screwdriver is OK but I WOULDN'T - screwdriver will get toasted and it WILL ding the locking collar.
Chris Velardi
Veteran
Where is the post on the Warrior suspension set up ? I'm thinking that Lazy Bastards set up on the short 121" RX1 will be very differnt than the 136" Warrior track lengh set up .
