Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
First off let me say how great this site really is. I'm amazed how even in the last 5 years the forums on the internet have changed all of us. Right now on this forum there are 5449 users with 217142 different articles, worldwide, and they are all Yamaha fans. Great site + great people = amazing info. The reason I snowchecked a 07 RTX was this site. Now a few newbie questions. I have done searches but almost get to many answers.
1) I'm studding the RTX with 144 single Gold diggers down the middle only and need some choices for patterns and templates.
2) Your thoughts on if I should break the track in before I stud it. Some say that the track will stretch and that you should stud after.
3) When I hear that a track is ratcheting is it flapping or are the drive lugs actually slipping in the track windows. (stupid I know)
4) What is the best way to stud the track, Sled on its side or lifting the back way up and or does this hurt the motor. ie, motor oil going somewhere it shouldn't.
Thanks again for the advice and best wishes for a great year on the snow. I for one can't wait.
Thanks again Dan
1) I'm studding the RTX with 144 single Gold diggers down the middle only and need some choices for patterns and templates.
2) Your thoughts on if I should break the track in before I stud it. Some say that the track will stretch and that you should stud after.
3) When I hear that a track is ratcheting is it flapping or are the drive lugs actually slipping in the track windows. (stupid I know)
4) What is the best way to stud the track, Sled on its side or lifting the back way up and or does this hurt the motor. ie, motor oil going somewhere it shouldn't.
Thanks again for the advice and best wishes for a great year on the snow. I for one can't wait.
Thanks again Dan

Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
1. http://www.wiem.com/catalog/view_enlarg ... 4ds.jpg&t= or http://www.wiem.com/catalog/view_enlarg ... ers.jpg&t=
2. I always stud my tracks before riding them and have never had a problem. Some may say to break it in first but I have done at least 10 brand new tracks before they have even seen the snow without any issues what so ever.
3. The drive sprocket doesn’t use the windows (2 out of every 3 of the windows are closed) to drive the track, it is driven by the rubber lugs that stick up on the inside of the track. The sprocket slips on the lugs when it ratchets.
4. Personally I think the Apex is too heavy to be put on its side. I have always hung mine from the rafters with a ratcheting tie down.
2. I always stud my tracks before riding them and have never had a problem. Some may say to break it in first but I have done at least 10 brand new tracks before they have even seen the snow without any issues what so ever.
3. The drive sprocket doesn’t use the windows (2 out of every 3 of the windows are closed) to drive the track, it is driven by the rubber lugs that stick up on the inside of the track. The sprocket slips on the lugs when it ratchets.
4. Personally I think the Apex is too heavy to be put on its side. I have always hung mine from the rafters with a ratcheting tie down.
WarriorBeads
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Ditto.
My only additional comment is, regardless of what "pattern" you choose, I'd stay away from an actual template. Reason being that if you line up the stud in the EXACT same place in a reapeating pattern, you will loose overall traction (at least on ice, from a stop).
Imagine that every fifth row of studs is positioned exactly the same spot (from left to right) as five rows prior. On hard exceleration from a stop, the first stud in row #1 comes around and makes a 'scratch line' in the ice, giving you traction. As the fifth row comes around the stud in the same position now has little or no 'unscratched ice' to dig into as the first stud has already chewed it up. You can get around this by sticking with the pattern in general, but offseting the position of the studs in the repeating pattern and 1/8th inch or so...just keep it a little random.
Just my experience. And if you never ride ice, it really won't make a big difference. Good Luck.
My only additional comment is, regardless of what "pattern" you choose, I'd stay away from an actual template. Reason being that if you line up the stud in the EXACT same place in a reapeating pattern, you will loose overall traction (at least on ice, from a stop).
Imagine that every fifth row of studs is positioned exactly the same spot (from left to right) as five rows prior. On hard exceleration from a stop, the first stud in row #1 comes around and makes a 'scratch line' in the ice, giving you traction. As the fifth row comes around the stud in the same position now has little or no 'unscratched ice' to dig into as the first stud has already chewed it up. You can get around this by sticking with the pattern in general, but offseting the position of the studs in the repeating pattern and 1/8th inch or so...just keep it a little random.
Just my experience. And if you never ride ice, it really won't make a big difference. Good Luck.

Shivesy
Expert
I just studded my apex last week and used the 144 double/single pattern from Woody's. http://www.woodystraction.com/photos/144centerds.jpg I purchased the 60 degree stainless steel signature series studs. I also used the Woody's aluminum double backers and single backers along with Woody's locking aluminum tall nut that has nylon inserted into the locking nut. I purchased the Woody's plastic cardboard template and it worked fine for a one time installation. I also ordered Woody's track drill bit which I beleive made the job much easier along with the square indexing tool. It's time consuming but fairly easy if you have a cordless drill and a nice torque wrench. I just jacked the rear-end up by inserting 6X6 wood spacer block and a hydraulic jack under the rear grab bar. I jacked the sled up just enough to raise the track a couple inches off the ground. Follow the instructions provided by Woody's and go at it. I think it took me about 3hrs. to 4hrs to do and it was my first time ever installing studs.
http://www.sled-parts.com/sledparts/sle ... studs.html
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... 512&mmyId=
http://www.sled-parts.com/sledparts/sle ... studs.html
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... 512&mmyId=
Mikecam said:1) I'm studding the RTX with 144 single Gold diggers down the middle only and need some choices for patterns and templates.
quote]
Here's one but it's not down the middle.
http://www.woodystraction.com/photos/144singles.jpg
Didn't I read on this site that it wasn't recommended to stud the Apex down the middle only with single studs like that of the Woody's template below because the studs have a tendency to come in contact with the exhaust?
http://www.woodystraction.com/photos/144centers.jpg


yamadoo
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I studded my Apex. 144, I choose to stay away from the middle do to the risk of 'shock rub' on the rear shock as some have had, and the best penetrating pressure for the stud is closer to the rail.
Honestly
I wanted 144 down the middle but I bought over sized backers and there isn't room if you stay away from the middle. :ORC
So I have the classic 96 V crowiding the rail and alternating inside and middle of the out side belt every other pitch, Something about the best laid plans of mice and men comes to mind
It has worked well for 8 of the 10,000 miles on th XTC
Yamadoo
Honestly

So I have the classic 96 V crowiding the rail and alternating inside and middle of the out side belt every other pitch, Something about the best laid plans of mice and men comes to mind
It has worked well for 8 of the 10,000 miles on th XTC
Yamadoo
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I studded down the middle and rode 1000 miles (very aggressively) without any problems with the track. If you’re worried about your track rubbing Ulmer Racing has a kit that you add to the rear of the mono shock to prevent track rub. I purchased the kit but just for insurance. The pic of my track was taken at the end of the season with 1000 miles.
Attachments
Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The 07 RTX has the CK rear skid in it and not the Mono. Should I still worry about the middle studs hitting the shock. Thanks
rage man
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
no
BA APEX
Expert
1) don't need to break in track
2) 144 woody center pattern is good\3)
3) when track is ratcheting it is the track jumping the cogs on the drivers
4)just lift it off the ground a foot or so, put flap up to bumper(use clamp or vise grips to hold) and work from the back/top of track to drill, side to hold/tighten studs & nuts.
2) 144 woody center pattern is good\3)
3) when track is ratcheting it is the track jumping the cogs on the drivers
4)just lift it off the ground a foot or so, put flap up to bumper(use clamp or vise grips to hold) and work from the back/top of track to drill, side to hold/tighten studs & nuts.
sledheadgeorge
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I found 144 down the middle was too much on my sons GT. It lost top end when we compared it to the original 96 studs down the middle. The 96 witht he ripsaw was a great set up for trail riding. 

Shivesy
Expert
So it's the mono shock inside the track that some say rubs the track if you stud down the middle? I thought studding down the middle of the track caused the studs to come into contact with the exhaust underneath the tunnel even though we do have tunnel protectors. My bad. I knew there was some reason that folks here on this site suggested not to stud down the middle. I'm not suggesting that you don't stud down the exact middle because I have no first hand experience on the matter but I knew I read some past post of folks stating not to.
Now that I think about it I have a hard time understanding why a stud head would come into contact with the shock when the head of a stud is recessed into the rubber track.
Now that I think about it I have a hard time understanding why a stud head would come into contact with the shock when the head of a stud is recessed into the rubber track.
ZR800EFI
Expert
The track rubs the shock in some cases enough that it also rubs the stud head as it goes over the shock mount.


**sj**
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go to scott bergstroms site to see what his pinion is on studding
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