welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Just thought id pass this info that was sent to me to you guys!
When deciding whether or not to install traction and control products in your snowmobile, consider the following information.
It is a fact that the installation of snowmobile traction and control products has an enormous effect on the over all handling and safety characteristics of any snowmobile! The addition of studs in the track, when combined with the right amount of carbide on the skis, improves the braking, stopping, and cornering ability of any snowmobile by a large percentage over machines that are not hooked up or "bald"! Also, bald track machines, when driven aggressively, are not only unsafe for the operator, but they also pose a risk to other snowmobilers as well! Taking this into consideration, the decision on whether or not to install traction and control products in your snowmobile should be an easy one!
The following information is intended to help assist you in selecting the proper traction and control products for your machine, and to ensure that the products you select provide you with the best performance, safety, reliability, and durability! This information is intended as a basic guideline for the proper selection and usage of snowmobile traction and control products. A snowmobilers riding style, preferance, experience, and area where they ride can promote variations in this information.
Tip 1: Always Choose The Proper Length Stud For Your Snowmobiles Track!
Most traction and control product manufacturers recommend a stud length that will exceed the track lug height from between 1/4" to 3/8" maximum. Choosing a length that is too short will decrease the braking and stopping ability of your machine as well as reduce its ability to accelerate! Choosing a length that is too long can cause premature stud and track failure, possible tunnel and coolant exchange damage, and excessive track drag, which causes a diminishing effect on top end speed! So before you select a stud, no your snowmobiles track lug height, and choose a length that will extend the stud to a height of no more than 3/8" above the track lug!
Tip 2: Always Check Your Snowmobiles Tunnel For Proper Clearance!
Always make sure that there is adequate clearance between both the top and front of the tunnel, and the studs! Todays snowmobiles are equipped with deeper lug tracks requiring the use of longer studs. This set up can reduce the amount of clearance available in the tunnel! Always make sure that your machine has tunnel gaurds running the length of the top of the tunnel, uses front and rear coolant exchange protectors as required, and always maintain proper track tension! Failure to do so could result in severe damage to your machines tunnel, and could even result in engine damage due to coolant loss! Your dealer should be able to provide you with the tunnel protection requirements for your machine!
Tip3: Never Over Stud!
Installing too many studs your track can diminish horsepower and reduce top end speeds due to excessive rotating weight and increased rotating drag! In some cases, excessive studding can actually decrease your tracks ability to hook up by causing the studs to float rather than penetrate. As a general rule you should never exceed 192 studs when studding a snowmobile for trail use. The number of studs you install should be determined by the size and type of snowmobile you own. Larger displacement (700cc & up) high performance trail sleds work well with patterns of 192 studs, while smaller displacement (600cc & down) machines generally work well with patterns that range from 144 to 168 studs.
Tip 4: Never Under Stud!
Installing too few studs can cause premature stud and track failure! The number of studs installed in your track has a direct relationship with the amount of load and force that each stud will have to endure! Having the right amount of studs will help to balance the amount of abuse each stud will take. Over working your studs by having too few in your track can cause them to break and bend prematurely, cause the backer plate to fail, and cause stud pull throughs shortening track life! Always install the right number of studs for the type of snowmobile you own!
Tip 5: Balance The Number Of Studs Installed In Your Track With The Right Amount Of Carbide On The Skis!
Not enough carbide on the skis for a given number of studs can cause the snowmobile to push or plow straight when cornering! Too much carbide on the skis for a given number of studs can cause the snowmobile to fish tail or feel loose in the rear end! Larger displacement (700cc & up) machines with 192 studs installed, generally work well with an 8" or greater set of carbide ski wearbars, while smaller displacement (600cc & down) snowmobiles with 144 to 168 studs installed, generally work well with a 6" set of wear bars. Rider style, suspension set up, and the type of machine will affect these guidlines. If you ride aggressively, you may need more studs and more ski carbide. If you trail cruise, or ride easily, then you may need less.
Tip 6: Never Place Studs Close To The Edges Of The Track Belts!
Placement of studs at the very edges of the tracks belts, especially the outside edges of the outer belts, will definetly result in stud pull throughs causing premature track failure! DON'T DO IT! As a rule, never place studs closer than one inch to the edges of the track, and when placing studs in the outer belts, try to stay as close to the center of the belt as possibe with a slight stagger towards the middle of the track. Some manufacturers studding patterns and studding templates have shown close to the edge stud placement as being acceptable. Again, DON'T DO IT! It is a gauranteed way to shorten the life of your track!
Tip 7: Check Your Studs And Backer Plates Frequently!
Always check your studs after a long weekend of riding and replace any bent, broken, or missing hardware. Running your machine with damaged studs and backer plates can cause premature track failure resulting in costly repairs! Check them frequently!
Tip 8: Respect Your Throttle In Marginal Snow Conditions!
One of the most important things that you can do to get the most wear out of a studded track is to be easy on the throttle when riding in marginal snow conditions! Hammering the gas when snow conditions are thin is a gauranteed death sentence for studs, backer plates, and the track itself! A hard spinning track in these conditions will most likely find rocks and other unforgiving hard objects hiding just below the snows surface where you cant see them! In some cases, marginal snow conditions can be deceiving. You think there is no problem when the reality is that costly damage to your studs, backer plates, and wear bars is taking place without you knowing it. This situation is enhanced by todays smooth and quiet running machines. Throttle easy in marginal snow conditions and you may avoid finding that a large percentage of your traction and control investment, and maybe the track itself, has been damaged!
Brian
When deciding whether or not to install traction and control products in your snowmobile, consider the following information.
It is a fact that the installation of snowmobile traction and control products has an enormous effect on the over all handling and safety characteristics of any snowmobile! The addition of studs in the track, when combined with the right amount of carbide on the skis, improves the braking, stopping, and cornering ability of any snowmobile by a large percentage over machines that are not hooked up or "bald"! Also, bald track machines, when driven aggressively, are not only unsafe for the operator, but they also pose a risk to other snowmobilers as well! Taking this into consideration, the decision on whether or not to install traction and control products in your snowmobile should be an easy one!
The following information is intended to help assist you in selecting the proper traction and control products for your machine, and to ensure that the products you select provide you with the best performance, safety, reliability, and durability! This information is intended as a basic guideline for the proper selection and usage of snowmobile traction and control products. A snowmobilers riding style, preferance, experience, and area where they ride can promote variations in this information.
Tip 1: Always Choose The Proper Length Stud For Your Snowmobiles Track!
Most traction and control product manufacturers recommend a stud length that will exceed the track lug height from between 1/4" to 3/8" maximum. Choosing a length that is too short will decrease the braking and stopping ability of your machine as well as reduce its ability to accelerate! Choosing a length that is too long can cause premature stud and track failure, possible tunnel and coolant exchange damage, and excessive track drag, which causes a diminishing effect on top end speed! So before you select a stud, no your snowmobiles track lug height, and choose a length that will extend the stud to a height of no more than 3/8" above the track lug!
Tip 2: Always Check Your Snowmobiles Tunnel For Proper Clearance!
Always make sure that there is adequate clearance between both the top and front of the tunnel, and the studs! Todays snowmobiles are equipped with deeper lug tracks requiring the use of longer studs. This set up can reduce the amount of clearance available in the tunnel! Always make sure that your machine has tunnel gaurds running the length of the top of the tunnel, uses front and rear coolant exchange protectors as required, and always maintain proper track tension! Failure to do so could result in severe damage to your machines tunnel, and could even result in engine damage due to coolant loss! Your dealer should be able to provide you with the tunnel protection requirements for your machine!
Tip3: Never Over Stud!
Installing too many studs your track can diminish horsepower and reduce top end speeds due to excessive rotating weight and increased rotating drag! In some cases, excessive studding can actually decrease your tracks ability to hook up by causing the studs to float rather than penetrate. As a general rule you should never exceed 192 studs when studding a snowmobile for trail use. The number of studs you install should be determined by the size and type of snowmobile you own. Larger displacement (700cc & up) high performance trail sleds work well with patterns of 192 studs, while smaller displacement (600cc & down) machines generally work well with patterns that range from 144 to 168 studs.
Tip 4: Never Under Stud!
Installing too few studs can cause premature stud and track failure! The number of studs installed in your track has a direct relationship with the amount of load and force that each stud will have to endure! Having the right amount of studs will help to balance the amount of abuse each stud will take. Over working your studs by having too few in your track can cause them to break and bend prematurely, cause the backer plate to fail, and cause stud pull throughs shortening track life! Always install the right number of studs for the type of snowmobile you own!
Tip 5: Balance The Number Of Studs Installed In Your Track With The Right Amount Of Carbide On The Skis!
Not enough carbide on the skis for a given number of studs can cause the snowmobile to push or plow straight when cornering! Too much carbide on the skis for a given number of studs can cause the snowmobile to fish tail or feel loose in the rear end! Larger displacement (700cc & up) machines with 192 studs installed, generally work well with an 8" or greater set of carbide ski wearbars, while smaller displacement (600cc & down) snowmobiles with 144 to 168 studs installed, generally work well with a 6" set of wear bars. Rider style, suspension set up, and the type of machine will affect these guidlines. If you ride aggressively, you may need more studs and more ski carbide. If you trail cruise, or ride easily, then you may need less.
Tip 6: Never Place Studs Close To The Edges Of The Track Belts!
Placement of studs at the very edges of the tracks belts, especially the outside edges of the outer belts, will definetly result in stud pull throughs causing premature track failure! DON'T DO IT! As a rule, never place studs closer than one inch to the edges of the track, and when placing studs in the outer belts, try to stay as close to the center of the belt as possibe with a slight stagger towards the middle of the track. Some manufacturers studding patterns and studding templates have shown close to the edge stud placement as being acceptable. Again, DON'T DO IT! It is a gauranteed way to shorten the life of your track!
Tip 7: Check Your Studs And Backer Plates Frequently!
Always check your studs after a long weekend of riding and replace any bent, broken, or missing hardware. Running your machine with damaged studs and backer plates can cause premature track failure resulting in costly repairs! Check them frequently!
Tip 8: Respect Your Throttle In Marginal Snow Conditions!
One of the most important things that you can do to get the most wear out of a studded track is to be easy on the throttle when riding in marginal snow conditions! Hammering the gas when snow conditions are thin is a gauranteed death sentence for studs, backer plates, and the track itself! A hard spinning track in these conditions will most likely find rocks and other unforgiving hard objects hiding just below the snows surface where you cant see them! In some cases, marginal snow conditions can be deceiving. You think there is no problem when the reality is that costly damage to your studs, backer plates, and wear bars is taking place without you knowing it. This situation is enhanced by todays smooth and quiet running machines. Throttle easy in marginal snow conditions and you may avoid finding that a large percentage of your traction and control investment, and maybe the track itself, has been damaged!
Brian
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Awesome tips thanx.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Great post. The stud count might be a little high for the ripsaw
Bossman
Expert
Great info Brian. Ya I don't think you need 192 picks until you approach the 200 hp range. At 150 hp I think 144 is plenty for aggressive trail riding and some lake racing. If all you do is trail ride 96 in the center is fine.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Good to know 
Didn't Bergstrom's site say that a 1/4" longer stud stops better than a 3/8" stud?
www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/stud_installation_history.htm
Didn't Bergstrom's site say that a 1/4" longer stud stops better than a 3/8" stud?
www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/stud_installation_history.htm
nice post
DaveyBoy
TY 4 Stroke Guru
4fi=ghter i think u are right a 3/8 stud will actually bite in and bend over but a 1/4 inch wil have its tip at the proper heightand do its job better
