racingronnie
Veteran
Has anyone replaced a starter on a 2008 Nytro, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
kopenytro
Expert
Starter
Yep.
I done it twice now and both times have went in from the bottom.
Directions are as follows;
1) Remove side plastics and bottom plate or Roest plate.
2) Disconnect your battery, drain the oil, remove your filter and disconnect the oil sensor next to the oil filter.
3) Disconnect your lower steering block and free up your steering post.
4) Remove your lower engine mount bolts and back out the threaded sleeves in the aluminum "C" plates so your motor is loose from the mounts.
- Sleeves are notched so you can use a large screw driver to spin the sleeves as needed.
5) Loosen the upper engine mounts.
6) Loosen the 2 bolts holding the starter in place and remove the wire connected to the starter.
7) The starter has an "O" ring on the end of it that holds it snuggly into the motor. Take a large screwdriver or pry bar and gently separate the starter from the engine.
At this point things get a little difficult as you have to pry the motor away from your cooler to gain enough space to get the starter out.
- hence the need to loosen your motor from the mounts.
What I did is grab a friend and have him gently pry the motor up towards the front of the sled (using a crow bar placed on the clutch side of the motor).
*** BE CARE TO NOT DAMAGE OR PUNCTURE YOUR COOLER WITH EITHER THE PRY BAR OR POWER LEAD ON THE STARTER.
Once you have enough room the starter will slide right out.
When putting the new starter in, just reverse the process except put a little grease on the end of the new starter gear/o ring.
NOTE:
Make sure to keep starter lined up with the engine opening that the starter slides into as you work it into position.
There is no wiggle room to adjust it once it is inside the engine compartment.
Once the starter is in place, align the gears and lightly tap it so it is seated snuggly into the motor.
Then put everything back together.
I did this over the course of the weekend and it took me about 6-7 hours.
Hope that helps, just be be careful, watch what your doing and good luck.
- Kope
Yep.
I done it twice now and both times have went in from the bottom.
Directions are as follows;
1) Remove side plastics and bottom plate or Roest plate.
2) Disconnect your battery, drain the oil, remove your filter and disconnect the oil sensor next to the oil filter.
3) Disconnect your lower steering block and free up your steering post.
4) Remove your lower engine mount bolts and back out the threaded sleeves in the aluminum "C" plates so your motor is loose from the mounts.
- Sleeves are notched so you can use a large screw driver to spin the sleeves as needed.
5) Loosen the upper engine mounts.
6) Loosen the 2 bolts holding the starter in place and remove the wire connected to the starter.
7) The starter has an "O" ring on the end of it that holds it snuggly into the motor. Take a large screwdriver or pry bar and gently separate the starter from the engine.
At this point things get a little difficult as you have to pry the motor away from your cooler to gain enough space to get the starter out.
- hence the need to loosen your motor from the mounts.
What I did is grab a friend and have him gently pry the motor up towards the front of the sled (using a crow bar placed on the clutch side of the motor).
*** BE CARE TO NOT DAMAGE OR PUNCTURE YOUR COOLER WITH EITHER THE PRY BAR OR POWER LEAD ON THE STARTER.
Once you have enough room the starter will slide right out.
When putting the new starter in, just reverse the process except put a little grease on the end of the new starter gear/o ring.
NOTE:
Make sure to keep starter lined up with the engine opening that the starter slides into as you work it into position.
There is no wiggle room to adjust it once it is inside the engine compartment.
Once the starter is in place, align the gears and lightly tap it so it is seated snuggly into the motor.
Then put everything back together.
I did this over the course of the weekend and it took me about 6-7 hours.
Hope that helps, just be be careful, watch what your doing and good luck.
- Kope
racingronnie
Veteran
Thank you!
kopenytro
Expert
starter
Good luck and keep us posted.
Kope
Good luck and keep us posted.
Kope
racingronnie
Veteran
Starter replacement OEM vs Aftermarket
Thanks again Kope for your reply. I was able to shave a little more time off the project and succeeded with pulling the starter out myself. I removed the front motor mount bolts from the bottom end, loosed up the steering shaft and placed a floor jack under the oil pan with caution I was able the mover the motor enough to pull the starter.
I disassembled the starter and found it was locked up due to the magnets delaminating from the housing.
Anyone have any suggestions with using a aftermarket starter vs. a Yamaha OEM. I see some listed on e-bay for around $85.00. What is everyone using ??
Thanks again Kope for your reply. I was able to shave a little more time off the project and succeeded with pulling the starter out myself. I removed the front motor mount bolts from the bottom end, loosed up the steering shaft and placed a floor jack under the oil pan with caution I was able the mover the motor enough to pull the starter.
I disassembled the starter and found it was locked up due to the magnets delaminating from the housing.
Anyone have any suggestions with using a aftermarket starter vs. a Yamaha OEM. I see some listed on e-bay for around $85.00. What is everyone using ??
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
RR
Couple of things to consider:
1. Starter relay may have caused your starter failure (happens quite often). I would replace it no matter what just to make sure its not the cause of the starter failure. Many guys install an LED light on the starter motor leads to indicate if power continues to go to the starter after you release the key. If the starter stays engaged, the one way clutch its attached to ensures the starter motor doesn't engage the engine, but it will continue to run and after running for a while it overheats and burns up the brushes or melts components inside. A starter motor is not built for continuous duty. Sometimes the key can stick too, but this is really rare.
2. If Aftermarket, make sure shaft rotates freely and sounds like your old one. Buddy had his starter fail on his 2009 xtx and replaced it with a Kimpex that he ordered in. We did the switch and noticed even new, the motor shaft was a bit stiff to rotate. Didn't think much of it and reinstalled anyway. Never sounded the same as stock one and after 3 weeks, it failed.
Luckily I disassembled the old one, tested it and realized it was only the brushes that burned out so it was easy to rebuild the stocker and put it back in.
Maybe he had the same starter relay failure, jury still out on that one, but pretty easy to see the OEM was a much smoother motor than the Kimpex.
Hope it helps
OTM
Couple of things to consider:
1. Starter relay may have caused your starter failure (happens quite often). I would replace it no matter what just to make sure its not the cause of the starter failure. Many guys install an LED light on the starter motor leads to indicate if power continues to go to the starter after you release the key. If the starter stays engaged, the one way clutch its attached to ensures the starter motor doesn't engage the engine, but it will continue to run and after running for a while it overheats and burns up the brushes or melts components inside. A starter motor is not built for continuous duty. Sometimes the key can stick too, but this is really rare.
2. If Aftermarket, make sure shaft rotates freely and sounds like your old one. Buddy had his starter fail on his 2009 xtx and replaced it with a Kimpex that he ordered in. We did the switch and noticed even new, the motor shaft was a bit stiff to rotate. Didn't think much of it and reinstalled anyway. Never sounded the same as stock one and after 3 weeks, it failed.
Luckily I disassembled the old one, tested it and realized it was only the brushes that burned out so it was easy to rebuild the stocker and put it back in.
Maybe he had the same starter relay failure, jury still out on that one, but pretty easy to see the OEM was a much smoother motor than the Kimpex.
Hope it helps
OTM
racingronnie
Veteran
Thanks for the information OTM. I have replaced the relay and solenoid a few weeks ago. It's good to know they maybe related to starter issues with brushes.
I was hoping to get by with a brush kit, however mine actually came apart internally, magnets let loose from the housing causing it to lock up.
I'm going to take your advise on the aftermarket and invest in the OEM. It maybe worth the saving if it was a 10 minute job and I was into short easy rides.
Thanks again and enjoy the snow!
I was hoping to get by with a brush kit, however mine actually came apart internally, magnets let loose from the housing causing it to lock up.
I'm going to take your advise on the aftermarket and invest in the OEM. It maybe worth the saving if it was a 10 minute job and I was into short easy rides.
Thanks again and enjoy the snow!
