Starting the VK Professional when cold

[tolson]

Our club got a new VK Pro this year, and starting it when the engine is cold has been a hassle. I pull out the choke, turn the key and it starts fine. It idles ok, but at very low rpm's for about 30 seconds, and then starts to run rough so I start to push the choke in slowly, and it either starts to run rougher or it stalls. If I leave the choke on, it stalls.

The only why we've gotten it to keep running and warm up is to leave the choke at about half and push the throttle a little bit to raise the rpm's, but then the clutch keeps trying to engage...

Any ideas?
What are we doing wrong?
What's the right way to start a cold VK Pro?

 

[maim]

should start the same as the vectors. might want to pm hondo as he must have had to start his a few times. might need the pilots cleaned as they are bad for plugging on the ventures and vetors from what i have read.

 

[VKbcnorth]

Try pushing the choke in to half as soon as the engine starts, no hesitation and then choke off as soon as possible unless the air temperature is very low. You may be loading the cylinders with too much fuel.
You don't need any choke at all to restart unless the engine is stone cold.

 

[eric3793]

My '08 VK starts great when I crank the starter without any choke and then roll on choke slowly. It starts at about 1/2 choke when 20 degrees F or warmer. When colder, it starts at 3/4 or full choke. After it starts I slowly close the choke until the revs jump to around 2000 rpm. Then it starts to get warm after 30 seconds or so and you can gradually take the choke off entirely and just let it idle normally. I don't need to touch the throttle at all.

I forgot this proceedure when starting the VK last week for the first ride this year. I put the choke on full before turning the key. It was only 30 degrees f outside and I flooded it. It would not start. I finally had to take out the spark plugs and dry them out. What a pain that was...swing the radiator to get at the coils, disconnect the wires, pull the coils off and use the wrench in the tool kit to get the plugs out. Those coils do not pull out easily so be careful not to damage them. The Yamaha manual does not even hint how to get the coils or spark plugs out. This is my first 4-stroke and working on these beasts is not like my old Polaris...that's for sure. Hopefully I won't need to do any serious work on this machine. I have 1500 miles on it from last season without any issues.

 

[YETI]

Check to make sure that the choke is working correctly. Mine was stuck the first time I started it this year.

 

[YETI]

Thursday morning it was -35 degrees it had been below zero for 24 hours and at 27 below I started my 07 VK I was excited. Friday morning it was -41 degrees the high for the day was -6 and I started the sled again I was impressed I have not had the trickle charger on it since last saturday when I went for a short ride. I have faith that it will start when I need it to the weak point is the battery. Full choke then turn over when starts go to half and slide down chock from there.

 

[eric3793]

It's a great feeling when that big 4-stroke comes to life. Nice job! We are headed up to the county for a week so I'll get an opportunity to see how the VK starts on these cold mornings. Hopefully we will not see -41F. Now that is COLD!

I'm anxious to try the new Roetin dual carbides and 11" ski skins in some deep snow.

 

[YETI]

Eric let us know how those skins work. If you get around Jackman again get in touch we will have a burger or beer together.

 

[eric3793]

Well, we saw -33F this morning and guess what...no start! She cranked well but not even a sputter of life. My wife's REV started reluctantly but at least it started. The VK needed just 20 minutes of salamander heat and she started normally. No excuses but both machines had been sitting in the cold for a few days.

We had a great ride today and the temps got up to almost 0. The skins and carbide combination works very well. It has been snowing all day and I noticed at higher speeds the skins tend to float which pick the carbides up to the point where steering is not a precise as it is at 30 - 40mph. This is not a big deal because when you let off, the steering is there. The Roetin "trutrack" dual carbides are the way to go. Of course, I was second guessing my choice to go this route rather that the more expensive Simmons Gen II skis. I know Simmons are the best handling ski out there
and tons of folks up her have them. For now I am happy.

I ventured into some deep snow although there is not as much up here as I expected. The 11" wide skins certainly keep the skis on top, that's for sure. There is no more diving when letting off the throttle. If we get the 10" that everyone is hoping for, tomorrow should be more fun than today. I noticed on the NERF snow depth map that there is alot more snow in the Allagash so we will head over there at some point this week.

YETI...we hope to make it up your way in early February.

 

[VKbcnorth]

I left our VKPro outdoors for 3 weeks without starting it at the beginning of the season. Normally it starts immediately but this time I had to hit the starter about 5 times before it finally fired up. Obviously the fuel in the carb had evaporated or drained down and it had to pull fresh fuel from the tank.

I emptied the fuel tank and carb bowls for last summer and ran it dry. At the start of the season, i had to use a squirt bottle full of gas and spray just a small amount of gas into each carb air intake. It started immediately.

 

[YETI]

I had troubles also. The battery did not have the power it should so I put it on trickle charge 3 days and no problems since.

 

[eric3793]

Today was a warm 10F degrees and 10" of fresh stuff. The skins become a real handful above 40mph. Everyone was having difficulties turning at higher speeds so I so not feel the skins were a mistake...yet. They certainly do stay on top of the powder. I am curious what the Simmons Gen II would be like.