suspension install HELP

[shawnj]

Been trying for hrs to get suspension front bolts lined up in 08 Apex gt. Doesn't seem like the tunnel is near wide enough for front arm to swing up. I've broke all 4 of the plastic bushings. I doubt I will replace as I will likely just break them again. I had the rear bolts in and removed again and now have back in again. Removed limiter strap and one bolt from torsion rod. No idea what to do now. Ive never struggled with a suspension so much before. Very frustrated and tired now. I've even tried with a pry bar to get arm up and it won't go past tunnel hardly at all.

 

[RTX]

I always disconnect the transfer rod then slide the suspension into the track/tunnel. I install the front bolts first. The front arm needs to slide up between a bunch of rivets into the location of the tunnel mounting holes. It can be a pain in the azz to align, so I do the front first. Then I Align the rear holes and mounting bolts. Then I assemble the transfer rod.

 

[couch]

Compress skid and use heavy zip ties / twine to keep it compressed ... make sure track tension adjusters are as loose as possible ... the edges of the plastic bushings are fragile ... don't know why Yamaha keeps using them other than to have a parts cash cow for after sale.

 

[shawnj]

I still have rear bolts in. Is it ok to leave them in and try and compress suspension? And can I even compress it now that I have it under the tunnel and inserted in the track? With transfer rod off at one end I thought it would of been easier. There seems to be a ton of weight when I try to lift front arm up and when I do there is no manoueverability. Might be easier with a 2nd person too. Are those plastuc bushings ok if the flanges are now all missing?

 

[actionjack]

You can use wood clamps or rig something, even a cut piece of closet rod just the right length to widen the tunnel gap just slightly to get the arm to swing freely up. A 2nd person makes it way easier.

 

[MT.man]

If you look into the tunnel you will see that there is a rivot end directly in the way of the front torque arm path to the mounting bolts. Take a grinder or cut off tool and flaten out that rivot. that will make it easier to get the front arm in place without damaging the plastic bushing. I take the bolts out of the shaft that the limiter strap is attached to and that allows me to get the four suspension bolt secured. As already discussed it is easier to have someone help.

 

[Winderallday!]

skid install

I have found that since the tunnel width (gap where swing arm goes) is set by the front swing arm width when bolted up, getting the swing arm back up there can be a challenge and I have broken many bushing flanges in the past. At $12 CDN each, this is less than ideal.

The tunnel width/gap is also set by the driveshaft/bearing assembly. In order to allow the tunnel to breathe open a little for easier installation, I loosen off the two set screws on the lock collar of the clutch side drive bearing by the speedo pick up gear, this allows the tunnel to relax and if necessary you can use a bar clamp/spreader to open the tunnel gap up to get the swing arm up in position.

I always do this as a matter of practice when removing/installing the skid and can usually get the skid in by myself without breaking bushing flanges and related cussing. I tighten the set screws on the bearing collar last after skid is buttoned up.
I have also found it easier to line mounting holes/bolts up when installing skid, by disconnecting the limiter strap as well by compressing the suspension and removing lower two bolts through the strap. Compress the skid after installation and install the bolts through the strap and your good to go.
Cheers!

Apexallday!