Tearing an Apex down?

[LJ 452]

I hear you on the motor corrosion with the motor. I really wish they did the sled motors like they do the Waverunners. My 91' 650 WR motors looks as good as it did the day it was build. I don't know if it's strickly a cost, weight, temp, or all of the above issue. I would definently get a good air riveter, You may also need to get a 1/4" rivet gun. Some air riveters are capable of 1/4" but $$$. I would use the Yamaha rivets as they have the stepped crush area. As mentioned you can get them from other manufactures, just make sue they are of the same design. Also I would recomend a cleko (SP) kit. It's a rivet mock-up aid used in aviation. I don't know of hand the store I got mine through but if you google cleko something will come up. It's a very handy tool to have if you are working with rivets. Here's a pic of the tool and it in use.

 

[Metallicat]

Another member here turned me onto Boeshield. It really seems to help keep the corrosion off of the exposed aluminum pieces. I sprayed the frame and engine and it took away the oxidation and left a thin film which so far has held up for the past 7 months or so. My new Vector oxidized horribly after sitting in my garage during the mid-winter thaws. Towing on an open trailer didn't help things much either.

http://www.boeshield.com/t9info.htm

 

[Throttle Jockey]

I use T9 for everything........ It's awesome

Yamaha Boeshield T-9® Protectant & Lubricant

An advanced blend of solvents, lubricants, and waxes. Penetrates, lubricates, displaces moisture, and helps loosen corroded parts. Leaves a thin waxy film on metals that protects for months.

 

[nate007]

Well, thanks all for the info!
I now have it torn completely down with the motor out, and only the chaincase and front suspension attached. Im thinking of carefully prepping the motor and gently glass bead-blast the corrosion off. I've got tons of cleko's (i use them at work restoring classic cars) so thats not a problem, I'm just getting a plan together so the sled isn't apart for years!
Does the T-9 work when using it once a year, or do you have to keep applying it througout the season?
I think I'll at least clear-coat the motor and other related pieces, but I'll poweder coat just about everything else.
Hopefully it looks sweet by the time snow flies. Famillyman told me I should continue the teardown and put Carillo rods in it, and a turbo. I told him "no", but now the wheels are turning!! Damned this sickness....

 

[Metallicat]

Nate, I haven't been using T-9 long enough to say if it will last an entire season or not. I just started using it at the end of last season because my sled was looking like crap from all of the exposure to the elements while trailering and whatnot. What I can say is that the film that I applied last March is still intact and the engine and suspension components are still protected. It doesn't seem to evaporate or dry out like WD-40 or similar products.

 

[ahicks]

Nate I wouldn't glass bead anything anywhere near that motor. If I had to, I'd try and track down some of that walnut shell stuff. Forget what they call it, but you wouldn't need to worry near as much about getting some inside it..... FWIW

 

[Polar_Bus]

Nate, I'm from the Wd-40 school too. Mine are literally soaked down at the end of the season. Somethng I've noticed over the years is that this process will actually make the majority of the existing corrosion disappear on aluminum surfaces.
That's been my experience anyway. If you have it indoors, I'd suggest soaking what you are looking at down with the WD and walking away from it for a month or so, then see where you are at. FWIW

WD40 is good, but Bombadier storage oil is even better. It's sprays on, then dries a bit and remains thick and viscous on your metal parts for a much longer period of times. I use the stuff on all my powersports and lawn/garden power items. Humid warm days and cool nights fester a TON of condensation !!
http://www.sea-doo.com/en-US/PAC/Access ... nance&Sku=

 

[linemech31]

I know some may laugh at this but... I use tire foam spray from armorall It leaves a coating on everything that looks good and wont hurt the rubber like the oil based stuff others are useing. Been useing it for a couple of years with no pitting rusting issues yet. Oil based sprays will over time destroy rubber and that might suck if its a coolant hose in the middle of a ride when it lets go.

 

[nate007]

I have the wanut shells for blasting, I bought a couple boxes of it from our local Harbor freight store.. Hopefully I can at least start getting the corrosion off, and I'll probably try some VHT paint in a siver or something to keep it looking good. I'm going to have th evalve cover and a few other small pieces coated as well.