This primary clutch noise is insane

ridesrx

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I just can't believe how loud this clutch is on my Wife's 2010 Vector. I had a 2006 Nytro and it was never like this. I have a buddy with an Apex with 13K on it and his is quiet. I have to find a fix. Somewhere I think I saw Ulmer respond to a post about o-rings behind the slider shoes that wear out or something like that. There has to be something that can be done. Has anyone found a fix?
 
I would also like to know, my 08 Vector has sounded like a Diesel since I bought it with 1700 kms on it. I have actually had people ask about sound when they walk past while its warming up
 
with the panels off the side and the killswitch all the way down (i like disconnecting spark plugs when i work on a clutch thats mounted)

run your hands over the primary, you will see the 3 bolts that hold the rollerweights centered in place, you will no doubt be able to slide them back and forth. what i did was take them out one at a time, make sure the one your working on is vertical so the shims and stuff dont fall out when you take the bolt out, i then ground off a bit of metal on both sides so it was equal, not much material, maybe 1/16 on either side iirc, then put the bolt back and do the same process for the other 2. i couldnt believe how much quieter it was especially at idle, if you have other parts worn out though be aware that this only fixes part of the issue, the other problem i can see on mine is the shims between the spider housing and the weights are worn down as well so there is some play in there, only way to fix that is with a clutch rebuild kit or parts from travis. Just go slow and dont take off too much material as it wont be held down by the nut and bolt then and just spin freely. you will see what i mean.

i think this is a much better alternative then o-ring because those will blast out of there in a thousand miles, that clutch can run millions of rpm's per ride. I noticed on mine it seemed like it was revving a little higher after i did this but i also made suspension setup and track changes so i suspect thats part of the problem too but just remember all the clutch stuff is balanced. what your doing to one side you should be equally doing to the other
 
with the panels off the side and the killswitch all the way down (i like disconnecting spark plugs when i work on a clutch thats mounted)

run your hands over the primary, you will see the 3 bolts that hold the rollerweights centered in place, you will no doubt be able to slide them back and forth. what i did was take them out one at a time, make sure the one your working on is vertical so the shims and stuff dont fall out when you take the bolt out, i then ground off a bit of metal on both sides so it was equal, not much material, maybe 1/16 on either side iirc, then put the bolt back and do the same process for the other 2. i couldnt believe how much quieter it was especially at idle, if you have other parts worn out though be aware that this only fixes part of the issue, the other problem i can see on mine is the shims between the spider housing and the weights are worn down as well so there is some play in there, only way to fix that is with a clutch rebuild kit or parts from travis. Just go slow and dont take off too much material as it wont be held down by the nut and bolt then and just spin freely. you will see what i mean.

i think this is a much better alternative then o-ring because those will blast out of there in a thousand miles, that clutch can run millions of rpm's per ride. I noticed on mine it seemed like it was revving a little higher after i did this but i also made suspension setup and track changes so i suspect thats part of the problem too but just remember all the clutch stuff is balanced. what your doing to one side you should be equally doing to the other

Clarify please....exactly which piece of the entire roller assy are you grinding on?
 
Clarify please....exactly which piece of the entire roller assy are you grinding on?
ccc.jpg
 
The bolts that hold the weights in my clutch like the ones you have circled are tight. The ones that hold the rollers are really sloppy though on mine. I was thinking about getting some fiber washers to take up the slack on the bolts.
 
schmidtbros makes a kit for like $10
 
this bolt x3

What does shortening the bolt do? "Nothing" if I'm thinking right.

FWIW - I installed the Schmidt Bros. $10 kit in my 05 several years ago and it quieted it down nicely. Just installed them on my 14 LTX and it hardly made a difference. And yes...I installed them correctly.

There's a splined something or other between the crankshaft and the clutch shaft that contributes to the problem. I don't know the specifics of this.
 
I don't understand that. The weight bushing pins are held in place by the set screws, and then the bolts tighten against them. There shouldn't be any movement at all...
I added 3 rubber washers behind the bolts on the rollers because they do have play in them without a set screw. I've had them on for thousands of miles.
 
I don't understand that. The weight bushing pins are held in place by the set screws, and then the bolts tighten against them. There shouldn't be any movement at all...
I added 3 rubber washers behind the bolts on the rollers because they do have play in them without a set screw. I've had them on for thousands of miles.

i circled the wrong part on the picture. and what kind of washers did you use? i saw posts guys were using plastic washers, rubber washers, and eventually they will come off, look how many g's that clutch is subject to, i just wanted to do this once and not every few thousand miles, and while that keeps the bolt head from slapping im not sure its doing the same for the collar, did your sound go away completely? im not saying what you did was wrong in any way just curious
 
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ok im not on a phone anymore heres another picture and writeup (the picture is from a viper but looks the same for most models) :


The Red portion is the bolt that has an extreme amount of side to side play, you can wiggle it back and forth, this is where the majority of the "can of bolts" sound is coming from, each time the clutch spins those 3 bolts slap back and forth, im pretty sure its an 8mm, grab a 1/4 8mm socket and an 8mm wrench and loosen the nut. Turn the clutch forward so the bolt your working on is lined up with the Blue arrow i drew (this keeps the shims and stuff from falling out while you take the bolt and sleeve out. So loosen the 8mm nut off, carefully let the bolt drop down and with it will also drop a hollow sleeve (#14 on the fiche) you will see on either end of that coller theres a tiny beveled edge,i used a bench grinder to shave down both ends an equal amount .. something like 1/16 off each end, then put the bolt back into place with the collar and retighten it, you want to make sure you dont take off so much material that the collar is loose while the bolt is tight, if you go very slowly and take off a little material at a time and put it back in and tighten it up to check then you wont take off too much. do that for all 3 of the collars, retorque those bolts back to spec, i cant remember what it was but not alot, under 10lbs im pretty sure.

Be aware you are only removing a small amount of material from the #14 collar sleeves, NOT the bolts themselves

The shims i marked in green are also part of the problem, over years of use they pretty much get thinner and also start slapping around, nothing you can do there to repair just replacement. there is a rebuild kit you can buy in the states (link is at the bottom)

Between the 2 of those that got rid of most if not all of my clutch noise at idle, i also made some adjustments to my secondary, shimmed it more so there is less floating on the secondary side. There still is noise (harmonics) while riding, something about the primary shaft splines having play which translates to strange noises at certain rpms, especially spooling up and down when your on the throttle you can hear it making a very consistent pitch/hum depending on what rpm range your in, i myself notice it the most when you pin it and then back off the throttle, annoying but not mechanically causing any problems. Now i read alot about the schmidt kits etc etc i have no idea what comes with them to replace so i cant comment on it, but im not kidding when i say the rattling #*$&@ sound my sled used to make is now gone, took me 20 mins to do and i didnt have to buy anything, if you need me to clarify anything more then let me know.



2.jpg


clutch.png



http://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003c290f8700212fc841beb/alternate-clutch-tune-up-kit <--- replaceable parts for primary
 
The Schmidt Bros. shims on my 05 look like new. Best guess is 8000 miles on them.

My 14 still rattles at idle but nothing like some of the 08 vintage Vectors I've heard. Everything is tight on the primary.
 
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