torque specs

shadow44

TY 4 Stroke God
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Anybody know the torque specs for the front suspension...I'm putting my upper balls joints and front spindles back on...just need to know if there are any special torque specs or just tighten'em up as tight as I can get'em without a torque wrench.
 
Shaddow, I'd say jam them on tighter than torque rates.
And use locktite.
I'm even considering red locktite in that area this year.
Last year I used blue all over the front arms and spindles and jammed everything on damn tight, but still found loose nuts and bolts at the end of the season.
 
If you exceed the torque specs you risk shearing threads or stretching the components beyond their yield strength. In most cases a joint is the most secure when the fasteners are tighten to their proof strength. At this point the fastener material acts as a very high rate spring and can recover from a percentage of overloading.

One can hope this was a consideration when the torque specs were set.

Loctite is good too.
 
arteeex said:
If you exceed the torque specs you risk shearing threads or stretching the components beyond their yield strength. In most cases a joint is the most secure when the fasteners are tighten to their proof strength. At this point the fastener material acts as a very high rate spring and can recover from a percentage of overloading.

One can hope this was a consideration when the torque specs were set.

Loctite is good too.

that's great arteex...do you know the specs? :o| Lol
 
The specs are in the service manual. There's a download available somewhere on the site.
 
arteeex said:
If you exceed the torque specs you risk shearing threads or stretching the components beyond their yield strength. In most cases a joint is the most secure when the fasteners are tighten to their proof strength. At this point the fastener material acts as a very high rate spring and can recover from a percentage of overloading.

One can hope this was a consideration when the torque specs were set.

Loctite is good too.

I hear you, but I can tell you that I went a couple pounds past torque specs (with blue) last year and still ended up with like 7 loose bolts after a good 3 day ride.
I don't know if it was cause I did the job in a warm shop and things loosened up in -20 or was it due to aftermarket bushings or what...
But this year I'm using red loctite all around and keeping a closer watch on it.
Yamaha knows about the arm issue with that recall in all.
Just what are they re-torquing too anyway to keep the arms on?
 
For the a-arms, if the bolts don't clamp down tight on the inner sleeves there is a potential for the nuts to back off a bit as the arm rotates. The bolts, inner sleeves and arms need to move as one unit. If you installed aftermarket bushings make sure the shoulders were thin enough for the inner sleeves to extend just slightly from the system. This ensures that the sleeve is bearing the load from the bolt.
 


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