fatworm99
Newbie
Have you found a way to fix the track racheting??? mine is still bad after 3 or 4 adjustments and im startin to wonder how much u have to adjust them to get it right. its in spec but whenever the susupension is compressed and i get on it the track rachets really bad. track is starting to feel like a banjo string. talk ab robbing the horsepower. HELLO!!!
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
In all conditions or when riding on frozen grass/dirt? I have 220 miles on mine and tonight was the first time it racheted and it was because snow was almost none.
There ARE worse things than track ratcheting under acceleration....
Track skipping over drivers while under extreme braking and suspension compressed....
ala: Leaking heat exchanger!
IMHO IF you are an aggressive rider extrovert drivers ARE A MUST!
Track skipping over drivers while under extreme braking and suspension compressed....
ala: Leaking heat exchanger!
IMHO IF you are an aggressive rider extrovert drivers ARE A MUST!
Unluckydiablo
Expert
so what are you saying 08nytrortx? Speak clearly for the rest of us 
OK clearly: (it's going to be long!)
Realize I am studded and ride hard. Other than suspension and skis sled was stock on this trip.
Picture this:
Beautiful day 10 degrees out on a 'training run'. Wide open swamps, great traction on a wide hard packed trail. I had been going back and forth in this area. As I was slowing down hard from mid 90's went threw a set of small rollers (guessing I going about 65 now still trying to scrub speed down to 35-40 with-in the next 60' or so becuase of some REAL uglies comming up) brakes are on just shy of locking track just as suspsnsion compresses as I hit the start of the rise of this roller (basicly max suspension compression AND traction while under braking) I hear a metalic type grinding noise, a slight vibration and feel my deccelerating inertia change (hmm kind of like in my car when I am braking hard THEN ABS comes on and I can tell my rate that I was slowing down lessens just as ABS kicks in! If you don't drive hard you will NOT reconize this feeling!!) My first thought was WTH!! I wasn't like I could actually look down and try to figure out what just happened, so I just figured it was break caliper/pad chatter. I realize now I can't scrub enough speed to get down to the speed I wanted to be to go through this series of about 10-12 2 1/5" deep bumps spaced 12'-14' peak to peak. My plans QUICKLY changed from triple in, double, double, triple out, which I had been doing, to punch it and 'clip the tips' (as I like to call it) and dance the sled through. At this point that minior rubbing I heard a few seconds back is now the absolute LAST thing I'm concentrating on!! Didn't hear the sound again....
Remember back in like Nov. when I say these engines have NOTHING to protect themselves from over heating OR low oil while sled is NOT at an idle. Well its true about 10 miles later when I actually noticed the idiot light I slowed down to stop and once the engine reached an idle it died! I was like HUH! Crank crank crank..... crank crank crank... nothing! Now I can see steam coming from every vent AND the holes I have added in the plastic. I checked overflow tank.. (it's full!) Remove all 3 panels nothing 'looks' wrong other than engine sure is HOT! I wait about 5 mins check the coolent level in radiator... OH Crap! (Found it full of bad sail boat fuel!) It becomes very clear to me what that sound was so I flip sled over on it's side YEP stud marks into the heat exchanger! Wind was blowing about 25-30 mph so about 10 min later I tried to fire it up Sure enough starts first revolution. I shut it down reinstall panels. I figure I'm about 5 miles from the trailer. I empied my camel back into the radiator, and I slowly start heading that way, stopping each 1/2 to let idle to see how hot it had gotten. I could get little over a mile and have to wait 5 mins and repeat....
And Yes I did have a buddy system buy my wife and another couple DIDN'T want to go that way back to the trailer because of the trail so they went another way longer but smoother. It was still daylight when I reached the trailer and I actually beat them as they had their own adventures! lol
Bet I don't get asked to speak clearly again! lol
All in all the FX Nytros ARE very tough sleds, like any sled I have owned I seem to be able to find a way to break them! And I'm OK with that! :O
Realize I am studded and ride hard. Other than suspension and skis sled was stock on this trip.
Picture this:
Beautiful day 10 degrees out on a 'training run'. Wide open swamps, great traction on a wide hard packed trail. I had been going back and forth in this area. As I was slowing down hard from mid 90's went threw a set of small rollers (guessing I going about 65 now still trying to scrub speed down to 35-40 with-in the next 60' or so becuase of some REAL uglies comming up) brakes are on just shy of locking track just as suspsnsion compresses as I hit the start of the rise of this roller (basicly max suspension compression AND traction while under braking) I hear a metalic type grinding noise, a slight vibration and feel my deccelerating inertia change (hmm kind of like in my car when I am braking hard THEN ABS comes on and I can tell my rate that I was slowing down lessens just as ABS kicks in! If you don't drive hard you will NOT reconize this feeling!!) My first thought was WTH!! I wasn't like I could actually look down and try to figure out what just happened, so I just figured it was break caliper/pad chatter. I realize now I can't scrub enough speed to get down to the speed I wanted to be to go through this series of about 10-12 2 1/5" deep bumps spaced 12'-14' peak to peak. My plans QUICKLY changed from triple in, double, double, triple out, which I had been doing, to punch it and 'clip the tips' (as I like to call it) and dance the sled through. At this point that minior rubbing I heard a few seconds back is now the absolute LAST thing I'm concentrating on!! Didn't hear the sound again....
Remember back in like Nov. when I say these engines have NOTHING to protect themselves from over heating OR low oil while sled is NOT at an idle. Well its true about 10 miles later when I actually noticed the idiot light I slowed down to stop and once the engine reached an idle it died! I was like HUH! Crank crank crank..... crank crank crank... nothing! Now I can see steam coming from every vent AND the holes I have added in the plastic. I checked overflow tank.. (it's full!) Remove all 3 panels nothing 'looks' wrong other than engine sure is HOT! I wait about 5 mins check the coolent level in radiator... OH Crap! (Found it full of bad sail boat fuel!) It becomes very clear to me what that sound was so I flip sled over on it's side YEP stud marks into the heat exchanger! Wind was blowing about 25-30 mph so about 10 min later I tried to fire it up Sure enough starts first revolution. I shut it down reinstall panels. I figure I'm about 5 miles from the trailer. I empied my camel back into the radiator, and I slowly start heading that way, stopping each 1/2 to let idle to see how hot it had gotten. I could get little over a mile and have to wait 5 mins and repeat....
And Yes I did have a buddy system buy my wife and another couple DIDN'T want to go that way back to the trailer because of the trail so they went another way longer but smoother. It was still daylight when I reached the trailer and I actually beat them as they had their own adventures! lol
Bet I don't get asked to speak clearly again! lol
All in all the FX Nytros ARE very tough sleds, like any sled I have owned I seem to be able to find a way to break them! And I'm OK with that! :O
Unluckydiablo
Expert
Speak clearly every time, we can all learn from all experiences, includig yours. How did they NOT beat you back to the trailier? Thanks for all your help to the rest of us, includeing those like me who have less than 100 miles.... :-( Ride on!
Unluckydiablo said:
It's a long story!
(lol now that is funny!)
Unluckydiablo
Expert
This is a forum, not a camp fire (man, I'd love to hear these stories around a camp fire!), let it out. Previous post isn't short, let it all out (lie down on my couch if it helps!). Oh, and you never answered my last pm, fyi. RIDE ON!
Sorry about not replying.
I got my skid plate from 'sled solutions' sponsor on here. (I think!) IMO it is WAY better than the Yamaha one because of how it attaches and you don't remove the stock belly plate like the Yamaha one wants you to. IT is also much wider and helps with floataion and not letting snow find it's way inside the panels as easy. Ice does build up on it but not that bad. And addressing other areas of concern with foam, mesh, or sylicone.
And yes I am screening off each of the air ducts so they don't injest snow as much.
http://www.sledsolutions.com/store/prod ... cts_id=337
Now to answer the OP question;
Extroverts are NOT for every one! You have to wndow your track and install clips OR just buy a new track...
How many miles on your sled I had to keep my track damn near 'fiddle string' tight the first 100 miles. I have since started backing off on how tight I actually run it because I didn't want to loose top end speed due to tight track. Once track breaks in it seems to be much less likely to ratchet!
I got my skid plate from 'sled solutions' sponsor on here. (I think!) IMO it is WAY better than the Yamaha one because of how it attaches and you don't remove the stock belly plate like the Yamaha one wants you to. IT is also much wider and helps with floataion and not letting snow find it's way inside the panels as easy. Ice does build up on it but not that bad. And addressing other areas of concern with foam, mesh, or sylicone.
And yes I am screening off each of the air ducts so they don't injest snow as much.
http://www.sledsolutions.com/store/prod ... cts_id=337
Now to answer the OP question;
Extroverts are NOT for every one! You have to wndow your track and install clips OR just buy a new track...
How many miles on your sled I had to keep my track damn near 'fiddle string' tight the first 100 miles. I have since started backing off on how tight I actually run it because I didn't want to loose top end speed due to tight track. Once track breaks in it seems to be much less likely to ratchet!
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The Yamaha plate is mounted over the stock plate... Just removed to drill out new holes, then attached again... Without it there would have been a BIG hole in the front where snow can get in...
mine ratched bad when I first had it on grass when I got it home tightened it twice .alittle over tight but not much it did't do it any more at all. Out 100mls on studded it and had to loosen track a little now with 450 ms it never has rac. again break it in. 
tugger
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2007
- Messages
- 15
Guys
I can't understand why Yamaha can not fix this. I had the same issues with my 97 SX700 so apparently this has been going on for some time now. With that sled I ran the track tight and completely trued up the drivers on a lathe and it was still scraping the track often while braking. Drove me nuts! I would swap with my friends on other brands and marvel at how this was no problem on their sleds. When you have studs you are always thinking about this while riding and it takes away from the fun because you never know when you are going to start puking green out of the exchanger (and that happened once). Obviously there is a 10 year (or more) unaddressed issue with this. This was one of the few things I really disliked about this sled, the others were motor loading up after landing from jumps and the front arm busting all the time. Other than these things I really liked my SX700. Upsetting to see that they haven't addressed this yet as I was hoping to see very little issues with this sled so I'd be tempted to buy next year LOL.
Tom
I can't understand why Yamaha can not fix this. I had the same issues with my 97 SX700 so apparently this has been going on for some time now. With that sled I ran the track tight and completely trued up the drivers on a lathe and it was still scraping the track often while braking. Drove me nuts! I would swap with my friends on other brands and marvel at how this was no problem on their sleds. When you have studs you are always thinking about this while riding and it takes away from the fun because you never know when you are going to start puking green out of the exchanger (and that happened once). Obviously there is a 10 year (or more) unaddressed issue with this. This was one of the few things I really disliked about this sled, the others were motor loading up after landing from jumps and the front arm busting all the time. Other than these things I really liked my SX700. Upsetting to see that they haven't addressed this yet as I was hoping to see very little issues with this sled so I'd be tempted to buy next year LOL.
Tom
Tugger I don't know how wide spead this issue is. I don't think very!!
This would NEVER happen to the average nonaggressive rider.
This would NEVER happen to the average nonaggressive rider.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
Has anybody considered changing the heat exchangers to the Apex style, under the foot well? I love the fact that my Apex doesn't fill up with snow.
I went busting drifts last noght, and got stuck really bad. From then out I was standing on a solid snow pack...
I went busting drifts last noght, and got stuck really bad. From then out I was standing on a solid snow pack...
