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Track rachet past 100 mph,track very tight,when it happens

snowbeast

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This is from my bud who reassembled and drove my sled for 700 plus miles last winter. He said he had to keep tightening the track,and it seemed as though the TD 8.5 rear wheels,would not stay tight,we did apply blue locktight to them. So I am wondering why it only rachets out past 100 mph,could it be the angle of skid,as it is on last hole on limiters,or all the way lose? I really like the TD wheels,and don't really want to add red locker to them,because if I do need to tighten on trailside,maybe a real problem getting them lose. Any ideas people. Oh for those that don't know,it is 260 plus HP,and only has 192 half worn out 1.45 studs,and has no marks of anything hitting anywhere.
 

limited loose with combo drivers and right track shouldn't ratchet... especially up top... maybe hooking up... you sure outs the track ratcheting? Where's he feeling it
 
Not tight enough. Check your tunnel ,, probably hitting not slipping
 
extros are not gonna ratchet, if you ratchet and extrovert you got some serious loose track and would likely cause damage.

My 12 cat was wick'd up bigtime and did not ratchet with INtroverts only....they did wear out though eventually and I installed extros.

You are hearing something else altogether IMO Pete.

Dan
 
Not tight enough. Check your tunnel ,, probably hitting not slipping
New tunnel,no marks,maybe belt and clutching,when I removed the helix and spring combo from last year yesterday,the spring had spun out of the hole,and the tang marked up the inside of STM helix badly,maybe this was what he heard?
 
limited loose with combo drivers and right track shouldn't ratchet... especially up top... maybe hooking up... you sure outs the track ratcheting? Where's he feeling it
Steve he claims past 100 mph,and when I looked at track tension,its very tight. When we ran it on grass last nov. the track was hanging 2" and hooking up crazy,no rachet than,but that was new all stock.
 
New tunnel,no marks,maybe belt and clutching,when I removed the helix and spring combo from last year yesterday,the spring had spun out of the hole,and the tang marked up the inside of STM helix badly,maybe this was what he heard?
Wow that is odd.....is that made by dalton or no? Was it stock spring? Tang bent or was it ok?

weird one

:eek:
 
New tunnel,no marks,maybe belt and clutching,when I removed the helix and spring combo from last year yesterday,the spring had spun out of the hole,and the tang marked up the inside of STM helix badly,maybe this was what he heard?
Maybe upon secondary assembly the tang didn't get seated in the hole properly...
 
From whay you described belt slipping and grabbing from not enough driven side pressure... I've seen people not clock the torsion right and jump the spring
 
Running over 100 in certain snow conditions I feel a thud once in a while. It is the snow on the rear heat exchanger building up then letting go and going through the tunnel as a chunk.
 
Wow that is odd.....is that made by dalton or no? Was it stock spring? Tang bent or was it ok?

weird one

:eek:
No not daltons spring,one allen was trying out,maybe a cat torsion spring,the clocking was different than normal Yamaha spring. The tangs are in different location,so when clocking it,allen told me to clock it zero and 1 which would of been 10 degrees,but it got wound to zero and 3 for 30 degrees,and was very very tight,and with so much power and 38 helix on top of all that,i feel it was backshifting so quickly it must of spun out of the hole in helix,but in sheeve hub,it was fine. So maybe this was why,when I fired it up yesterday,and attempted to spin the RPMS up to see where it would recall back to on tach,it only would struggle to make 7700 rpms after warm up. My thinking was bad gas,because it had gas from last april in it,without stable,but now after new gas and different springs and stock helix,she recalls 9150 rpms,i still think most of that low RPM was clutching and not bad gas.
 
Maybe upon secondary assembly the tang didn't get seated in the hole properly...
That's what I am thinking too,as I was not there to see or feel it,my boys did it,and they stated it was very hard to get clocked to 30 degrees with that spring.
 
From whay you described belt slipping and grabbing from not enough driven side pressure... I've seen people not clock the torsion right and jump the spring
Ya,steve me to,i just don't really know what he heard,maybe the secondary was having fits at 100 and it sounded like track rachet? Funny thing no sheeve slipping marks on either clutch,just the normal wear marks down on bottom of primary sheeves just off engagement,i thought the stock 8JP belt did not do what the 8DN ape belt used to do?
 


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