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Trailer Deck Replacement

cnybrian

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Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
476
Age
52
Location
Cato, NY
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2006 Yamaha Attak
LOCATION
Cato, NY
Picked up a new to me Rance Rough Rider aluminum 2 place open trailer last year. The decking is looking a little rough and is need of replacement. Due to the 3x cost differential, I've decided to go with a standard untreated plywood vs marine grade plywood. I'm looking for recommendations on types/brands of stain or waterproofing. Being located in NY and our wonderful elected officials trying to protect us from ourselves, we can no longer get good oil based products.

Any suggestions what product(s) to use?
 

I would have went with the treated.. it may delaminate when the edges get saturated with water. I would suggest sealing the edges with some kind of sealer. Standard plywood is not made to be in the weather.
 
I would have went with the treated.. it may delaminate when the edges get saturated with water. I would suggest sealing the edges with some kind of sealer. Standard plywood is not made to be in the weather.

I've read that pressure treated wood corrodes aluminum. Is that no longer true?
 
Until 2003, the most common preservative used was chromated copper arsenate (CCA). Health concerns led to replacement of CCA by a range of other chemicals. Most contain high levels of copper, which is less toxic than CCA because it is not absorbed by the body.

Wood preserved with copper is much more corrosive than the old CCA-treated lumber. When working with this material, it's best to choose only stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized connectors (nails, screws, bolts, anchors, etc.) designed for use with the newer copper-based PT wood. And because these new wood treatments are especially corrosive to aluminum.
 
Until 2003, the most common preservative used was chromated copper arsenate (CCA). Health concerns led to replacement of CCA by a range of other chemicals. Most contain high levels of copper, which is less toxic than CCA because it is not absorbed by the body.

Wood preserved with copper is much more corrosive than the old CCA-treated lumber. When working with this material, it's best to choose only stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized connectors (nails, screws, bolts, anchors, etc.) designed for use with the newer copper-based PT wood. And because these new wood treatments are especially corrosive to aluminum.

If it was me, I would use treated and SS fasteners.
 
I've had good luck using the tractor paint from Tractor Supply. Cut the panels as needed to fit your trailer and tighten the dimensions by 1/8" to allow for the paint on all edges. Slather the edges first then the flat sides (do both sides). We put 2 coats on untreated ply I get from work (if anyone is in central NY and can use 42 x 42 x 3/4 or 1/4 plywood, I can hook you up) and it looks like brand new still. We lastly thinned the paint pretty good and sprayed a tack coat on the top side and tossed sifted play sand over the tack coat, made it super non-skid.

If you want to be extra sure, at Lowes they have some wood preserve that you can paint over afterwards. Its like $12 for a gallon. I put that on my chicken coops and the wafer board (which is 10x worse than plywood for peeling and waving) has no signs of damage after 4 years with no top coat afterwards, just the preserve.
 
Personally I would only used semi transparent stain. I sold a trailer with the same plywood on which I restained approx. every 4 year, that I built in 1974 and the plywood lasted till 2004. It was in poor shape but useable. I usually have 3 to 4 open trailers for one use or another. Some have been painted with various types of paint and solid stain, only the ones covered with semi transparent stain lasted. Likel;y do to some type of oil base that soaks into the wood. I usually add about 1 quart of water proofing per gal. stain which requires continuios stiring while applying.
 
I am now leaning towards getting the marine plywood. Its just not worth the risk of having to replace the deck again anytime soon. canadianhunter, we can't get real oil based stain here in NY it is all water based.
 
The water base stain likely would not last for long.
With treated plywood I would go with SS fasteners as mentioned above. I would try and find some rubberized or plastic tape to put on the places where the plywood would contact the aluminum.
As of late I was doing some deck repairs and temorily fastened a piece of treated plywood with the gold deck screws, when remove after one week the screws were already black.
 
Try the deck product Restore or truck bedliner coating by Herculiner or DupliColor.
 
just soak it in drain oil will last for ever like a rail road tie.
 


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