Tune up and TPS

[Blue Me]

I just got my sled back from a bike shop and not only did they re-synch my carbs (since dealer hasn't got a clue) they also reset my butterflys to not open all the way with my K&N setup. He found that after riding it he could set them so they open up on their own with the added amount of air coming in with the new filters in lieu of the suitcase sized airbox that the incoming air in fact pulled open the butterflys the rest of the way giving me a bit of throttle reserve on top end. This also cleared up the burbling I had from 4-6K on the RPM dial. She flatout screams now. I do however still use a quart every 500 miles but I am going back to 5-30. I would strongly suggest if your getting this thing tuned up find yourself a bike shop that has a good mechanic who likes sleds (these guy's are out there) and make sure he has a Digital Vacuumeter as I think it worked better than the mercury setup. IMO.

 

[speedy]

yamabluerx1--
Did you get a reading from your TPS?

 

[grader]

the butterflys are connected to your thumb and are independant of filters, airboxes or airflow. they do not open or close on their own. yamablue, you may want to have another talk with your mechanic, cause something got lost in translation.

 

[Blue Me]

yamabluerx1--
Did you get a reading from your TPS?

No I did not

 

[Blue Me]

the butterflys are connected to your thumb and are independant of filters, airboxes or airflow. they do not open or close on their own. yamablue, you may want to have another talk with your mechanic, cause something got lost in translation.

He said you can loosen them which will allow them to operate a bit more sloppy allowing for more trigger. Believe me I asked twice cause it made NO sense to me either. I was sent to this guy from a race sled builder who told me he could build engines and tweak clutching but when it came to tuning it that this was the guy to go to. After riding it I am positive. he spent alot of time adjusting my carbs I know this. He spent 15 hours on it. Not bad for $325 including new brake pads and a full grease job, motor and clutch alignment also. I ain't arguing with someone who kows more than me. I know for darn sure it rips now. It might not have a turbo but it'll spank most of them without one.

 

[speedy]

yamabluerx1--

It may be to your advantage to find out what it is...
could you call him and ask if he checked it?

 

[Blue Me]

yamabluerx1--

It may be to your advantage to find out what it is...
could you call him and ask if he checked it?

That I will and I'll let you know

 

[banjo04414]

Where exactly do you take the readings at. You use an ohm meter? How do you set the tps to get the proper reading?

 

[speedy]

If you feel at all uncomfortable about this don't do it----I don't want to be held responsible....I found this info here on this website...you need to check output from the TPS @ idle (1350+-100rpms) warmed up...I used a pair of straight pins and slid them up in the connector for the TPS on the sensor side of the connector, one in the yellow and one in the black wire. Slide them between the wire and the o-ring..they need to make contact to the terminal inside the connector. Power on and not running, check VDC, + on yellow , - on black....note what it is..you need to see .710 vdc to .775 vdc. If you need to change it --I pulled the 2 output lines off the fuel pumps and removed the pumps from the fram and could get to the adjustment screws with a 1/4" ratchet and philips..
It is touchy so get it in the ball park and give her a try...Good luck...

 

[grader]

yamablue, im glad your sled runs good and you found a good place to get the work done. your last post told me where the biggest gains came from, motor and clutch alignment. he would have checked them first, and only did them if they were out. this is free hp that is often overlooked, so youve found a mechanic that took the time to get everything lined up.

 

[Blue Me]

Yeah Grader the guy is the local hotshot when it comes to tuning R1's. He happens to be a snowmobile freak instead of a bike guy so he's a gem of a find.

 

[Him]

I've now tested a 1000km with the TPS @ 0.75 and a similar test with the TPS at the book, in my case 0.68 and with the higher TPS the engine burned alot oil, about 0.6 - 0.8 litre / 1000km. With the lower TPS it went down to about 0.1 - 0.2 litre.

I didn't feel any significant changes in the power. With the higher TPS I could smell some oil vapor during longer runs on 8500+ rpm, not burned oil but just like you put you're nose into the evac when it's running.

MPG was the same.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[yamadoo]

OK maybe stupid ? but, how is timing of 'spark' going to make huge changes in oil consumption. What is the 'path ' we are suspecting for oil loss?
I am not bashing or doubting, I just don't get it.
Yamapoo

 

[Him]

I really don't know why. Higher TPS means earlier timing. Perhaps it creates higher airflow in the crankcase due to the earlier timing, higher blow-by or something. It could create higher combustion temperature aswell and that perhaps burns more oil.

I don't know for sure why, but it affects the oil consumption. The only thing that was changed on the engine was TPS.

Perhaps someone else can explain why?