jeffgilbert
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What settings are most of you turbo guys running on your ulmer clutch kit and what belt? Mine came with 2 heel and 4 in the tip with the secondary set at 6-1 with a pink sprintg. I had it set to 5 heel and 4 tip 6-1 wrap and a gates carbon belt I was getting a lot of dust and heat so I put it back to ulmers settings with the 8jp and seems to be better way less heat I haven't tried the gates belt with them settings it revs much higher at this settings. Looks like I am getting some possibly coil bind in the secondary looks like some rub marks would some washers on the helix solve this and is there any drawbacks with that?
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks
Jeff
I don't have any turbo experience, but what I know about the pink spring is that it coil binds without added helix clearance. The Ulmer red spring seems to be disliked by many, but it works well for me especially with low end hit. No coil bind issues with this spring which is a big plus.
If you want to continue to use the pink spring I might look at having the pocket machined in the clutch so that you will be free to run whatever helix you like.
P.S. I would not think that 3 washers in the heel would make any difference in belt dust, but I'm certainly no expert.
If you want to continue to use the pink spring I might look at having the pocket machined in the clutch so that you will be free to run whatever helix you like.
P.S. I would not think that 3 washers in the heel would make any difference in belt dust, but I'm certainly no expert.
jeffgilbert
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I no longer have the red spring I sold it with my old kit and the pink spring came with this kit do you think I could washers to prevent it until I can send it out for machining in the off season?
jeffgilbert
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Any opinion on what belt to run I have old 8jp and old 8dn and a gates c-12 with 250 km on it.
Depends on the helix used. When testing at MrSeld's shop we did some shimming with just a std split lock washer on each stud, but you have to watch the tips of the ramps as they can be a but short on some helix putting the tips right at the buttons. Need to be very careful when assembling. Others use a std flat washer and snip a flat in them. I just don't care for either and would rather have a spring that does not bind OR a clutch that had a deeper pocket so that the helix could be changed w/o question.
I believe NOS-PRO has gone to machining the clutch itself on his Winder etc.
The 8DN has always been the better choice, BUT I believe some are saying that the 8JP may help with OD. My guess is that the Gates and other aftermarket belts use the same compound and just vary length so I might try the Gates 8JP equivalent. I have the Gates 8DN equivalent on mine but of course no turbo.
jeffgilbert
Expert
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- 2019 Sidewinder BTX LE
It's a ulmer K helx. I agree with going about it the correct way but for me to take it off have it shipped for someone to machine it from Newfoundland you are looking at a possible 3 week turnaround depending on weather, that's why I'm looking at the washers until the off season when down time isn't a issue.
Try the washers just be careful of the tips of the ramps. The ramps are a bit shorter with this helix.
The sidewinder guys are discussing the machining as well: http://ty4stroke.com/threads/secondary-spring-pocket-machining.147021/
