extremefilms
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Alright, so, we are now prepping the sleds for the season.
My dads sled revs right up to 4g no problem ( which is where it engages ). It had run a comet 108 exp clutch all last season with no problems. We now put on a factory set clutch and it worked great for the first rip across the lawn, so we parked it. We moved it around to put it near the shed instead of the garage, and it performs great right to 4900 rpms. But if you try to go any past that, it jerks like its ready to go, then it just stops accelerating and makes a studder. Like a putt putt putt bog, and then it repeats.
The carbs were then cleaned, and we tested revving it up without the belt on, still does it. We also cleaned the tank out and put 5 gallons of 91 octane in. We also changed the spark plugs, still bogging. Any other suggestions, is my motor screwed?
My dads sled revs right up to 4g no problem ( which is where it engages ). It had run a comet 108 exp clutch all last season with no problems. We now put on a factory set clutch and it worked great for the first rip across the lawn, so we parked it. We moved it around to put it near the shed instead of the garage, and it performs great right to 4900 rpms. But if you try to go any past that, it jerks like its ready to go, then it just stops accelerating and makes a studder. Like a putt putt putt bog, and then it repeats.
The carbs were then cleaned, and we tested revving it up without the belt on, still does it. We also cleaned the tank out and put 5 gallons of 91 octane in. We also changed the spark plugs, still bogging. Any other suggestions, is my motor screwed?
Turk
Tech Advisor
Sounds like a tors issue. Check throttle cable free play.
extremefilms
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I overrode the TORS and it still did it. I unplugged the TPS ( throttle positioning sensor ) and the sled started revving up a little bit.
Did you make sure all four of the little rubber o-rings are underneath the carb caps when you finished the cleaning??
extremefilms
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I believe so, but, what exactly do they do?
extremefilms said:I believe so, but, what exactly do they do?
The carbs on your sled are a little different than ex. a typical mikuni flatslde. They are a CV (constant velocity) carb, which means that the throttle slides are directly not connected to the throttle cable. They rely on a pressure gradient between the venturi and the rubber diaphram to open. The o-rings seal the air passage between the venturi and the carb diaphrams. no o-rings = no seal = no pressure gradient = no slides opening.
That said, I still like Turk's answer better. Are you sure you by-passed the TORS correctly?
extremefilms
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I knew about the pressure thing, and yes, when you put the sled up on a track stand and rev it, they open all the way.
I unplugged the 2 tors wires, and connected them to each other.
I unplugged the 2 tors wires, and connected them to each other.
extremefilms said:I knew about the pressure thing, and yes, when you put the sled up on a track stand and rev it, they open all the way.
I unplugged the 2 tors wires, and connected them to each other.
The 2 coming from the harness side, or the carb side?
extremefilms
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The 2 coming from the harness side.
TORS shouldn't be an issue then.
Convert
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Did you clean out the tank before or after you started having issues? Reason I ask is I had the same problem a couple of years back, cleaned the carbs ran good for a bit and then started acting up again. Installed inline fuel filters and cleaned carbs one more time no more problem. I think you plugged your pilot jets again 

Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
By the way: Reving up to high RPM without a belt is pure heck on the primary. You may want to consider refraining from that.
And, if you do not know for sure that the o-rings are in place or not, its time to go back in and check. While your there, you can give the jets another good check and cleaning. Cause, it does sound like a carb problem.
Did you stabilize the fuel last year? Did you use a clean container to refuel this year? Or, did you use an old metal can. They introduce rust into the fuel system.
By the way, 87 octane is better for these babies. It burns hotter. Believe it or not, they actually run better on 87.
Good luck. Seems like we always see a rash of fuel problems this time of the year
And, if you do not know for sure that the o-rings are in place or not, its time to go back in and check. While your there, you can give the jets another good check and cleaning. Cause, it does sound like a carb problem.
Did you stabilize the fuel last year? Did you use a clean container to refuel this year? Or, did you use an old metal can. They introduce rust into the fuel system.
By the way, 87 octane is better for these babies. It burns hotter. Believe it or not, they actually run better on 87.
Good luck. Seems like we always see a rash of fuel problems this time of the year
extremefilms
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Stabilize the fuel? I emptied the tank, and ran it out, and put half a gallon of fuel in every 2 months and ran it through. I use 91 octane because it burns cleaner. I know that the higher the octane, the higher the flash point is.
And how bad is it revving your sled to 5000 rpms without a belt for 3 seconds for the primary?
And how bad is it revving your sled to 5000 rpms without a belt for 3 seconds for the primary?
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