my w arm has some cracks after 7000 miles.are you guys all rewelding them or replacing them?how much is a new one?are the bushings usually junk?does a new one come with bushings?
LazyBastard
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New one does NOT come with bushings.
New one will break just like old one if you keep riding same way.
Weld it hard and reinforce it strong.
Track won't ratchet with solid W-arm.
New one will break just like old one if you keep riding same way.
Weld it hard and reinforce it strong.
Track won't ratchet with solid W-arm.
LazyBastard
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Bushings cost $1.50 each (there's 6)
98srx6
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If you decide to weld the old one, make sure you inspect it closely to make sure you dont overlook some small less visible cracks. Also, adding gussets will help to ensure that it doesnt break on you again.
LooseCannon
Expert
Be sure when adding any reinforcements, flat stock and or gussets to the W arm do not place directly over skid rails. During any aggressive bumpy trail riding the suspension will collapse enough to have the rails smack these reinforcements in the W arm. Try to stay in the corners of the W and really inspect for little cracks or small rust spots on the arm.
Anyone with picture before & after ??
TB
TB
JD
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I found cracks on the A-arm…after slamming into a nice dit
Upon inspection I found that both arms that attach beside the shock had ripped apart right where that little reinforcement plate is…
Repairs: I carefully cut through the small plate to inspect the tubing underneath and it was also cracked…just cut it open in the center and bend it away to get at the tube…I used a mig welder and its holding….At the time I had not noticed but the main tube that the shaft goes through was also torn….Now that I have had to pull the skid again I am really seriously looking at a new M-12…..I don’t really want to spend a bunch of cash on this skid….It’ aint great…
In my case, it was likely a good thing I had to remove the skid…I found the bushing on the left side was separated and the inner piece migrated down the shaft leaving the aluminum shaft to rub directly on the steel tubing….damaging the shaft. Note that I have 6040 miles and always lots of grease…Pull you skid sooner than this…I have 4 bad bearings and also discovered a bent wheel…..
Just a comment, with regards to beefing up or reinforcing the A-arm…I don’t recommend it….I believe that if you make it to strong, damage next time may occur somewhere else that may be even more severe….like a bent tunnel or even just shearing off the front suspension bolts which would not be pretty…..Just my opinion…..
Did I mention I am looking for an M-12….JD….
Upon inspection I found that both arms that attach beside the shock had ripped apart right where that little reinforcement plate is…
Repairs: I carefully cut through the small plate to inspect the tubing underneath and it was also cracked…just cut it open in the center and bend it away to get at the tube…I used a mig welder and its holding….At the time I had not noticed but the main tube that the shaft goes through was also torn….Now that I have had to pull the skid again I am really seriously looking at a new M-12…..I don’t really want to spend a bunch of cash on this skid….It’ aint great…
In my case, it was likely a good thing I had to remove the skid…I found the bushing on the left side was separated and the inner piece migrated down the shaft leaving the aluminum shaft to rub directly on the steel tubing….damaging the shaft. Note that I have 6040 miles and always lots of grease…Pull you skid sooner than this…I have 4 bad bearings and also discovered a bent wheel…..
Just a comment, with regards to beefing up or reinforcing the A-arm…I don’t recommend it….I believe that if you make it to strong, damage next time may occur somewhere else that may be even more severe….like a bent tunnel or even just shearing off the front suspension bolts which would not be pretty…..Just my opinion…..
Did I mention I am looking for an M-12….JD….
LazyBastard
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LMAO!
You're not going to break the tunnel or the bolts. Just make it real real REAL strong.
If it was a breakaway part designed to protect the tunnel and bolts, then switching to a different skid sure wouldn't help.
You're not going to break the tunnel or the bolts. Just make it real real REAL strong.
If it was a breakaway part designed to protect the tunnel and bolts, then switching to a different skid sure wouldn't help.
LooseCannon
Expert
JD-
I would have to say that would be the first I've heard of a W arm that was too strong. They should be TIG welded and constructed out of chromoly from the factory. If you break suspension bolts due to a reinforced W arm you got BIGGER problems on your hand!! I would definitly beef up the stock arm before I dropped 1,800 plus dollars on the fix. Yes M10's and 12's are the cats a$$ however not recommended for fixing the cracked arm syndrome but rather for fixing the rider comfort issues.
I would have to say that would be the first I've heard of a W arm that was too strong. They should be TIG welded and constructed out of chromoly from the factory. If you break suspension bolts due to a reinforced W arm you got BIGGER problems on your hand!! I would definitly beef up the stock arm before I dropped 1,800 plus dollars on the fix. Yes M10's and 12's are the cats a$$ however not recommended for fixing the cracked arm syndrome but rather for fixing the rider comfort issues.
