RX1-er-2005
Expert
I'm debating wich way to go...I've been having problems of slide over heating and melt down.We haven't had much snow last year,but I find as soon as this skid runs low on snow...WOW she wants to over heat them slides :shock: ...I've even installed scratchers it does help to a certain extent.
My question is why do other sleds that ride with us don't have that problem, :? ex
OO'S and CAT'S is it a different design or rail pitch/angle that tend to create more friction on our YAM'S...I notice that CAT'S are using fully clip tracks all open windows,so this is why I'm kind of questioning if I should be going that route.
What are the avantages of having closed verses open??? I'm thinking with a fully clipped that there would be less friction,I don't care about the extra weight or top end speed :shock: ...I just want to install the proper track (RIPSAW) and enjoy the ride.
My question is why do other sleds that ride with us don't have that problem, :? ex
OO'S and CAT'S is it a different design or rail pitch/angle that tend to create more friction on our YAM'S...I notice that CAT'S are using fully clip tracks all open windows,so this is why I'm kind of questioning if I should be going that route.What are the avantages of having closed verses open??? I'm thinking with a fully clipped that there would be less friction,I don't care about the extra weight or top end speed :shock: ...I just want to install the proper track (RIPSAW) and enjoy the ride.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
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I ran into that last season in Canada. So this fall, I went and punched the windows out of my 136" Ripsaw and ordered 72 clips for about $54.00
If you are looking at buying a new track, I would definitely go with a punched & fully clipped one to save yourself the hasstle. Most Camoplasts in this variety come with "speed clips" which are slotted to hold reserve snow.
Otherwise you need a special tool to install the clips. I lucked-out somewhat, my friend had one but I still have to find another tool that fits over the lugs for every-other one, and may end-up taking my track to the dealer anyway.
If I had to guess why clips are better, I would say:
1. They have less surface area.
2. They are a harder material that is more resistent to melding with the hyfax.
3. Rubber is just about the worst thing when it comes to reducing friction, especially without some sort of lubricant. Ask yourself why tires are rubber instead of metal?
If you are looking at buying a new track, I would definitely go with a punched & fully clipped one to save yourself the hasstle. Most Camoplasts in this variety come with "speed clips" which are slotted to hold reserve snow.
Otherwise you need a special tool to install the clips. I lucked-out somewhat, my friend had one but I still have to find another tool that fits over the lugs for every-other one, and may end-up taking my track to the dealer anyway.
If I had to guess why clips are better, I would say:
1. They have less surface area.
2. They are a harder material that is more resistent to melding with the hyfax.
3. Rubber is just about the worst thing when it comes to reducing friction, especially without some sort of lubricant. Ask yourself why tires are rubber instead of metal?
Cubby's RX-1
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Ummmmm, it is very funny this question came up just now. Last year I put a new Ripsaw on my 03 and it has every hole open & clipped. It did take away some of the hifax wearing problem. I also added Polaris bogey wheels which are about 3/16 of a inch bigger in diameter than the stock Yamaha's. Problem solved at least for me it was.
Here's why I think this is funny. After reading about the recent jackshaft bearing failures, I decided to replace all my bearings in the drive line last week. I pulled down my track and found about a 1/8 inch of melted rubber on my tunnel protectors. The friggin track was rubbing on the tunnel protectors, talk about riding with the brakes on. All I had to do was trim the knobbys down a 1/4 inch with some side cutters and the track spins freely with the push of one finger now. The knobbys I trimmed down were in line with the tunnel protectors and the track holes.
So the moral to this stupid little story, the fully open hole track works pretty good for hifax wear, but make sure the new ripsaw track you install DOESNT HIT THE TUNNEL PROTECTORS. Sheesh, do I feel like an idiot............Cubby
Here's why I think this is funny. After reading about the recent jackshaft bearing failures, I decided to replace all my bearings in the drive line last week. I pulled down my track and found about a 1/8 inch of melted rubber on my tunnel protectors. The friggin track was rubbing on the tunnel protectors, talk about riding with the brakes on. All I had to do was trim the knobbys down a 1/4 inch with some side cutters and the track spins freely with the push of one finger now. The knobbys I trimmed down were in line with the tunnel protectors and the track holes.
So the moral to this stupid little story, the fully open hole track works pretty good for hifax wear, but make sure the new ripsaw track you install DOESNT HIT THE TUNNEL PROTECTORS. Sheesh, do I feel like an idiot............Cubby
TurboVector
Expert
I couldn't go for more than 100 miles on a set of OEM hyfax last year. This year I'm going with Hyperfax and I'm going to cut holes in my track with a hole saw to try and get more lube to the sliders.
Mighty
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23 Sidewinder SRX
Just install these. I did and was very pleased!
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/cat ... ductID=380
SLP Track/Slide Anti-Wear Pad Kit
with Track Drill
Only: $$24.95
(RRSPwearpads)
Track Drill: Please Select1/4" Track Drill (add $9.50)7mm Track Drill (add $9.50)1/4" Track Drill Only (no anti-wear pads)7mm" Track Drill Only (no anti-wear pads)None
Qty:
click for larger view Increase your performance! These new anti-wear pads reduce wear & drag on slides and the track.
Designed for the new Polaris and Ski Doo deep lug tracks that don't have clips at each cross bar. Having every third track "window" closed aids flotation, but in marginal snow conditions it can cause the slides to come in contact with the track rubber and heat up. This easy to install kit is the answer. Each anti-wear pad goes in the closed "window" and prevents the track coming in contact with the slides.
Prevent track damage, slide wear and reduce drag all with one kit.
Kit come with 40 Anti-Wear Pads, 40 SS Backing Washers & 40 SS Nylock nuts. Enough for a 156" track.
Track drill required for installation. (1/4" or 7mm)
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/cat ... ductID=380
SLP Track/Slide Anti-Wear Pad Kit
with Track Drill
Only: $$24.95
(RRSPwearpads)
Track Drill: Please Select1/4" Track Drill (add $9.50)7mm Track Drill (add $9.50)1/4" Track Drill Only (no anti-wear pads)7mm" Track Drill Only (no anti-wear pads)None
Qty:
click for larger view Increase your performance! These new anti-wear pads reduce wear & drag on slides and the track.
Designed for the new Polaris and Ski Doo deep lug tracks that don't have clips at each cross bar. Having every third track "window" closed aids flotation, but in marginal snow conditions it can cause the slides to come in contact with the track rubber and heat up. This easy to install kit is the answer. Each anti-wear pad goes in the closed "window" and prevents the track coming in contact with the slides.
Prevent track damage, slide wear and reduce drag all with one kit.
Kit come with 40 Anti-Wear Pads, 40 SS Backing Washers & 40 SS Nylock nuts. Enough for a 156" track.
Track drill required for installation. (1/4" or 7mm)
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