I got my manometer from freddie(supertuner on this site) here the post from freddie I think you were looking for below.
Id check with ulmer racing for the puller.
Badsled...warm the engine up good before connecting the manometer. Make sure the engine idle speed once warmed up is between 1200 and 1450 RPM's. If it is not raise or lower the idle to this specification. Shut engine off when it is good and warm, then disconnect the 2 black hoses going to the #1 and #4 intake manifold. Connect these 2 hoses together as this is what operates your fuel pump. A small piece of tubing of some kind works nicely for this. This will prevent the pumps from going airbound thereby giving you a little more time to run the engine off of what is in the float bowls only. The other alternative would be to hang an auxilliary fuel tank up and use this as your fuel source by connecting these 2 hoses via a "T" to the auxilliary fuel source. If you are reasonably efficient, you can usually get the carbs synch'd before running the float bowls dry. Okay, so now the #1 and the #4 hoses are connected from the manomometer to the intake manifolds spigots located at the top of each manifold directly in front of the valve cover. Next, remove the black rubber plugs on the #2 and the #3 intake manifolds and connect the remaining 2 lines from the manometer to these. Note that the manometer (If you bought it from me anyways) is numbered. You should put the cylinders corresponding to the number for each number on the manometer. Start the engine and let it idle. if all 4 mercury tubes are even within a small amount or very close there is no need to adjust anything. Start by adjusting the # 2 carb to the #3 carb. The adjusting screws are located between each carburtor and are a phillips head screwdriver configuration. There are 3 phillips head screws for doing this. One is between carb 1 and 2 one is between carb 2 and 3 and another between carb 3 and 4. The reason there is only 3 on a 4 cylinder engine is due to the fact that when you make an adjustment, you are adjusting one carb up and one carb down. Perform the same procedure for the #3 and the #4 carbs. These phillips head screws can be seen by looking straight down between each carburetor. If a cylinder is showing high on the manometer, adjust the screw counterclockwise. Note that you will not only be lowering that carb but also raising the one next to it so slight movements are only necessary. If it is low try moving the adjusting screw clockwise. Give then engine a few "raps" of the throttle between each adjustment to allow the engine to "stabilize" to the new setting. High revs are not required so be very careful not to allow the clutch to engage. A quick tip too...when you press down on the screwdriver to adjust each carb, you will actually change the snych due to the fact that you are pressing on the adjustor. Don't let this fool you. Make a small adjustment and remove the screwdriver pressure from the adjusting screw and give it a moment to respond to the new setting. Reconnect all your hoses to their appropriate locations and reinstall the plugs for the to #3 and #4 manifolds. Try to get the carbs synch'd within .19 PSI of each other. Also, it is good to know that your valve lash is within the factory tolerance. Adjusting valve lash changes the manifold pressure thereby changing the carburetor synchronization. You are done.
