who sells trailer tops?

You would probably spend at least $1,500 for a top. You may as well just buy my whole trailer for $2,400 then you would have a 12'x101" drive on drive off with matt's,guide's and spare. You would also have a fiber glass very aerodynamic top instead of an Aluminum top that pull's like a mule. Just a thought. kviper
 
kviper said:
You would probably spend at least $1,500 for a top. You may as well just buy my whole trailer for $2,400 then you would have a 12'x101" drive on drive off with matt's,guide's and spare. You would also have a fiber glass very aerodynamic top instead of an Aluminum top that pull's like a mule. Just a thought. kviper

I appreciate the thought, but I'm on a very limited budget after spending way more on a sled than I ever intended. $2400 is well outside my range. Also the fiberglass tops are a lot heavier than aluminum just to open and close. I've got a bad back so I have to take things like that into account. Same with drive on/off. Then I've gotta deal with the ramp. Not good for my back either.
 
R & R Trailers in Three Rivers, Michigan. They may have a scratch and dent or a demo as well...269-278-5310
 
I bought my drive on/off for $2000 plus tax new. If your trailer is decent, you would probably get 7-800 for it and have a new trailer for around $1300 final investment. (plus you would have new tires, bearings,etc)

Dealing with the ramp is really not that hard, even by yourself, and it saves you from fighting to keep your trailer tilted while loading your sleds.(adding a top can sometimes make it harder to keep the trailer tilted down)
Just a thought!
 
Sno-Xr said:
I bought my drive on/off for $2000 plus tax new. If your trailer is decent, you would probably get 7-800 for it and have a new trailer for around $1300 final investment. (plus you would have new tires, bearings,etc)

Dealing with the ramp is really not that hard, even by yourself, and it saves you from fighting to keep your trailer tilted while loading your sleds.(adding a top can sometimes make it harder to keep the trailer tilted down)
Just a thought!

Where the heck did you find a new trailer for $2k?? I haven't been able to find a 5-6 year old one for less than $17-$1900. I keep waiting for all these "crappy economy" deals that are supposed to be out there with people losing homes and jobs and having to sell stuff cheap, but I think that's an illusion!

I've got the gas spring to keep the trailer tilted so that's not an issue.
 
I bought it new 4 years ago at Antique tractor/trailer sales(or something like that). They advertise in the swappers. They have like 6 locations in Michigan. Grayling, Alba.......etc.
My trailer is a Sno-Pro, not exactly top of the line but its been pretty decent so far.
 
snerkman said:
kviper said:
You would probably spend at least $1,500 for a top. You may as well just buy my whole trailer for $2,400 then you would have a 12'x101" drive on drive off with matt's,guide's and spare. You would also have a fiber glass very aerodynamic top instead of an Aluminum top that pull's like a mule. Just a thought. kviper

I appreciate the thought, but I'm on a very limited budget after spending way more on a sled than I ever intended. $2400 is well outside my range. Also the fiberglass tops are a lot heavier than aluminum just to open and close. I've got a bad back so I have to take things like that into account. Same with drive on/off. Then I've gotta deal with the ramp. Not good for my back either.
No problem just thought i would throw it out there. With the lift cylinder's i can almost lift it with one hand, The fiberglass is the way to go! They are much more aerodynamic. I had an Aluminum as well as two other friend's, They both said the same thing. I got between 2 and 3 mpg better millage with the fiberglass that i have now versus my old aluminum, I have never seen an aluminum that is as aerodynamic as a Top Cap. To me the ramp is not an issue but i think my trailer can be unbolted and used as a tilt if you wanted, Just remove one bolt and use a pin. My thought was if you sold your trailer and added the price of a new cap you would be near the price of my trailer and then you would have a 12'. No big deal to me i will be just fine with keeping mine in fact some times i think i should just do that, The aluminum and fiberglass will probably last as long as i can still ride and the drilled axle/greaseable bearing's the same. My tire's are in excellent cond but could be replaced with new rim's and tire's for $125 to $150 when needed. Oh, No way in hell you can buy an aluminum trailer with any top for $2,000 especially a Triton with a fiberglass top. A new 12' Triton with aluminum top list's for $4,100 and that does not include guide's, mat's or tax. kviper
 
I had the same dilema this year. I had a 10 year old Triton XT 8 1/2' x 10' tilt with salt shield & slides and I wanted to have an enclosed trailer. Instead of adding a cap to mine, I sold the Triton for $975 (I only paid $875 for it 10 years ago then spent a few hundred more on the salt shield & slides).

I found a used 2004 Newmans Sled Bed 8 1/2' x 10' tilt with a Dandy brand aluminum cap and slides for $1700. I actually prefer the tilt because I can drive in and back out (reverse gear rules!) without messing with a ramp.

Bottom line, for $725 out of pocket I made the switch to an enclosed trailer. Now I just can't believe that it took me this long to rid myself of wet dirty sled covers and sleds. I will never go back to an open trailer. Just open it up when you get there and pull out your perfectly clean sled and your gear also if you need the extra storage space.
 


Back
Top