sportster64
Pro
On the 2006 suspensions - they are using 6005 bearings for the idler wheels if I am correct. this is a 25mm ID x47mm OD x 12mm Wide bearing. looking at yamaha part number 8es-47419-20-00 which is the stock idler wheel mount bracket for 2006 - can you fit a 6205 bearing on it which is 3mm wider or about 1/8" wider than the stock bearing ?
Has anyone tried this ?
Does anyone know if you could machine down that bracket to allow use of a 15mm bearing or can't the bracket be machined down ?
Has anyone tried this ?
Does anyone know if you could machine down that bracket to allow use of a 15mm bearing or can't the bracket be machined down ?
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When I installed the new dealer supplied idlers with 6205 bearings I just added a 3mm thick washer that fit inside the bearing and dealer thought this was good. The 6205 bearing is alittle offset in wheel, so by turning it the right way it lines up very close.
From earlier posts [Apex forum ??] , some people did machining and some thought 3mm was to little to bother, but this may have been with the over sized [Ski Doo ??] wheels.
From earlier posts [Apex forum ??] , some people did machining and some thought 3mm was to little to bother, but this may have been with the over sized [Ski Doo ??] wheels.
sportster64
Pro
3mm is about 1/8"
Did the bearing race ride smoothly on the mount + washer ?
Did the bearing race ride smoothly on the mount + washer ?
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Seemed to work fine. Have not ridden since wheel installation.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Some of the info here is a little confusing. I'll try to clear it up.
A wheel with a 6205 bearing will bolt onto the idler brackets for the monoshock suspensions. Sometimes a longer bolt is needed (if you do a search you can find the Yamaha part number here).
Since the 6205 bearing is 3mm wider, the center of the bearing and hence the center of the wheel moves away from the mount by half this distance. 1.5mm works out to 0.060in.
This isn't much of a shift and many have got away with simply bolting on 6205 based idlers this way. The potential problem lies with the inner idler locations. These idlers ride between the introvert drive cogs for the track. Having slightly wider wheels, each offset by 0.060in means that as you corner, the wheels start to rub the drive cogs (they can just touch without cornering).
Most likely this would somewhat shorten the life of the idler wheel's rubber - I don't know for certain.
In my case I took the inner mounts to a machine shop, had them mounted in a lathe and took off the 0.060" from the surface that the side of the bearing pushes up against when installed. This way my idlers are still perfectly centered and I don't have to worry about any potential issues. The job took about 5 minutes total and in my case didn't even cost me a dime (I do a lot of work with machine shops).
In my experience the 6205 bearing based Yamaha wheels (like used on the 04 RX-1) were much more durable when installed this way compared to stock, 6005 bearing based 2005 or 2006 idler wheels.
Now if you were to force a 3mm spacer between the bearing and the idler wheel and then somehow get the cir-clip to install (don't know how), you would end up with the wheel offset too far. It needs to be offset by only 1.5mm or 0.060". Personally I don't like this approach as the loads on the wheel and bearing won't be as well centered. I also wouldn't be surprised if over higher miles the bearing works it way out of the wheel somehow.
A wheel with a 6205 bearing will bolt onto the idler brackets for the monoshock suspensions. Sometimes a longer bolt is needed (if you do a search you can find the Yamaha part number here).
Since the 6205 bearing is 3mm wider, the center of the bearing and hence the center of the wheel moves away from the mount by half this distance. 1.5mm works out to 0.060in.
This isn't much of a shift and many have got away with simply bolting on 6205 based idlers this way. The potential problem lies with the inner idler locations. These idlers ride between the introvert drive cogs for the track. Having slightly wider wheels, each offset by 0.060in means that as you corner, the wheels start to rub the drive cogs (they can just touch without cornering).
Most likely this would somewhat shorten the life of the idler wheel's rubber - I don't know for certain.
In my case I took the inner mounts to a machine shop, had them mounted in a lathe and took off the 0.060" from the surface that the side of the bearing pushes up against when installed. This way my idlers are still perfectly centered and I don't have to worry about any potential issues. The job took about 5 minutes total and in my case didn't even cost me a dime (I do a lot of work with machine shops).
In my experience the 6205 bearing based Yamaha wheels (like used on the 04 RX-1) were much more durable when installed this way compared to stock, 6005 bearing based 2005 or 2006 idler wheels.
Now if you were to force a 3mm spacer between the bearing and the idler wheel and then somehow get the cir-clip to install (don't know how), you would end up with the wheel offset too far. It needs to be offset by only 1.5mm or 0.060". Personally I don't like this approach as the loads on the wheel and bearing won't be as well centered. I also wouldn't be surprised if over higher miles the bearing works it way out of the wheel somehow.
maddogjeff
Expert
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The bracket will support the 6205, the I.D.s are the same 25mm. But if you care about positioning the wheel in the same place (good idea), you need to machine the shoulder (where the bearing butts up against) down .060. And as on the Venture, the shock pivot bracket needed to be machined by the same on both sides.
The outer wheels (2) just need a longer bolt, Yami part# SMA-8EK38-01:95817-10085-00.
Doo wheel part# 503190802 (6) or Kimpex Part# KX 411667.
The outer wheels (2) just need a longer bolt, Yami part# SMA-8EK38-01:95817-10085-00.
Doo wheel part# 503190802 (6) or Kimpex Part# KX 411667.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Rex's post is great! I machined those inner wheel holders as well.
Maddogjeff giving you the longer bolt P#, and that of my favorite of all the idler wheels, the skidoo, is quite helpful too.
Maddogjeff giving you the longer bolt P#, and that of my favorite of all the idler wheels, the skidoo, is quite helpful too.
