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XTX Break In

exactely, fesh oil is best, just a point where its a waste of money.
Is the consensus still to break them in on regular oil, and then put synthetic in soon after that?
 

SledderSteve said:
Eagle1 said:
great now I cant even start my sled in the garage :o| :o| :o|
man this is gonna be a long wait til winter!
What do you all think of change oil at 200 -250 miles instead of 500 miles? 500 miles seems like a long time with all that metal floating in your oil
Sure you can, just be sure to do a complete heat cycle where you let the engine come up to operating temperature then cool completely down to ambient before starting it again. It was actually a recommendation to do this when we got the RX-1's in '03. Might have been a bone they threw us since they knew we were going to start them anyway. Seems so long ago now.. The biggest danger in garage starting is not getting the engine up to temp and fouling plugs.

As for changing the oil, go for it, the 500 mile mark is just a recommended minimum, clean oil isn't going to hurt your engine. ;)!

A quote from that same site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the engine for 15 minutes.
Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so extreme,
that their taillight had begun melting (!!!)

Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle periods.

Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings
from sealing as well as possible ??

This is a good question ...
 
What about running it in the garage ???

Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing...

The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to "hear"
the new engine run can be very strong.

This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride.

The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.

The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"

During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.


That is what the site says about running in the garage. I'm still gonna run mine to get in into the garage, but figure why bother running it in the garage


That site is a pretty good read, if anyone doesn't agree with other things it says please post it cause this will be my first time breaking in a new vehicle
 
fwiw I too am in the camp of break it in like you are going to run it! (within reason) I have used this on every internal combustion engine I have ever bought new or rebuilt or even re ringed, 2 stroke or 4 stroke it doesn't matter! While there are very smart people in the other camp saying this might not be the best way, this works for me and I'll continue to do it. btw I have never had an engine failure due to improper break-in!
I will also say that of the 2 08 FX Nytros I ran last year one was broke in my me and one was broke in by someone else EXACTLY like Yamaha recommends. Both sleds identical the sled I broke in had almost 8-10 mph on the top end and acceleration after 70 wasn't close.... I'm not saying that break-in is what caused this difference BUT that was the only know difference between them.
 
Nytro12 said:
SledderSteve said:
Eagle1 said:
great now I cant even start my sled in the garage :o| :o| :o|
man this is gonna be a long wait til winter!
What do you all think of change oil at 200 -250 miles instead of 500 miles? 500 miles seems like a long time with all that metal floating in your oil
Sure you can, just be sure to do a complete heat cycle where you let the engine come up to operating temperature then cool completely down to ambient before starting it again. It was actually a recommendation to do this when we got the RX-1's in '03. Might have been a bone they threw us since they knew we were going to start them anyway. Seems so long ago now.. The biggest danger in garage starting is not getting the engine up to temp and fouling plugs.

As for changing the oil, go for it, the 500 mile mark is just a recommended minimum, clean oil isn't going to hurt your engine. ;)!

A quote from that same site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the engine for 15 minutes.
Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so extreme,
that their taillight had begun melting (!!!)

Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle periods.

Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings
from sealing as well as possible ??

This is a good question ...


My 2007 Attak manual said 15minute idle-I did exacly that, maybe 17minutes didnt overheat, no melting of light either. I will do the 15 min on the FX also
 
First thing they do on the production line after assembly is hold the motor at WOT for a period of time.

Ride it like ya stole it....
 


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