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Yamaha slides?

Super Sled said:
I install new screws every time I change the slides just to avoid the stripping issue. Seriously. I just brought them into Fastenal and purchased like twenty replacement screws. I've heard to not keep using the same screw. Wss cheap and easy way to settle that issue.

Good tip, and I probably have an endless supply at work too? :dunno:

I took them out the other night and the right one was a bugger, almost stripped the Philips head right out of it!
But once they were both out, I sprayed them up with some LPS-2 then reinserted them a few times and they seemed to really go in easy after that.
Still plan on getting new ones like you say, that is probably the best insurance.
Do you use any Anti-Seize on them, I think I might?
 

I wouldn't use the anti-seize, wouldn't want any reason for those things to back out. Make sure you're using a #3 Phillips as well. The best insurance is to do the mod but saying that, all the sleds I work on are still original screw style. Dad's Vector has something like 8000 KM on his sliders......we keep spares in the trailer in case.
 
How to change sliders

Are there any links to photos showing how to change the sliders? Mine are almost through the extra wide part in several places. They don't seem to be wearing very even. Any suggestions?
 
replacing slides is a pretty simple process, flip the sled on its side(oil tank down) and take out the two phillips screws, i use a impact driver or a screwdriver you smack with a hammer) flip the sled back over and take a screw driver on the side of the slides and pound them back, being carefull not to damage the rails. one you have about 2 inches out of the track windows a pair of visegrips to pull it out the rest of the way, or just put the sled in reverse and give it some throttle. works slick! as for the junk phillips head screws, i went to fastenal and bought hex counter sunk screws. i'm slowly getting rid of all phillips head screws and going to hex. oh and to aid in installation of the slides put a bit of dish soap on the inside edges of the slides so it slides on the rails eaiser.
 
Re: How to change sliders

froines said:
Are there any links to photos showing how to change the sliders? Mine are almost through the extra wide part in several places. They don't seem to be wearing very even. Any suggestions?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5s9huklRu8

I did this 3 times last winter, last time it took me less than 10 min... hope this helps
 
Irv said:
Super Sled said:
I install new screws every time I change the slides just to avoid the stripping issue. Seriously. I just brought them into Fastenal and purchased like twenty replacement screws. I've heard to not keep using the same screw. Wss cheap and easy way to settle that issue.

Good tip, and I probably have an endless supply at work too? :dunno:

I took them out the other night and the right one was a bugger, almost stripped the Philips head right out of it!
But once they were both out, I sprayed them up with some LPS-2 then reinserted them a few times and they seemed to really go in easy after that.
Still plan on getting new ones like you say, that is probably the best insurance.
Do you use any Anti-Seize on them, I think I might?


I got some screws that have the allen hed-hex in them , looks like they will come out alot better
 
I stripped the fine threaded screws as well. What works also is to get good 1/4-24 or 20 (can't remember which is the most common to find) common SS Philip's tapered screws about 1 1/2 or so long. Cut them to length. Get a Sears brand or good tap the same size and tap out the hole (no need to drill) the old threads are so fine that the new threads carve out the hole in aluminum just right. Go to the tap stop's going in. It easier to start and thread the 1/4 in SS in because the threads are not as fine. I put Blue LocTite on them and have never had a problem with them on my Attak,Vmax or 2010 RS Vector LTX. Some may say this is not right but it works. Going on 6 seasons with them and I didn't want to do the work for install with nuts,holes for the nuts drilled,etc.
 
the best thing to do is use a tap to clean out old loc-tight and spray contact cleaner and put just a dab of new loc-tight on screw good to go
 


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