Recent content by cannondale27

Thanks guys. I will take care of him.

I eliminated mine my using a Sidewinder oil tank and ran breather hose like Sidewinder guys do. Only reason I did it was because I had one and mine was destroyed when silencer blew out and caught sled on fire. Using Winder tank caused issues with bodywork. It’s wider so could not use Dzus...

Its about a 8hr job first time. Comes out bottom. have to remove everything attached to it and everything in the way along with drill and reinstall rivets. New ones are about $650 never found a welder that would try fixing the cracked weld on left side.

I agree with dealer. Other than the 1% of actual sunk valves this was the factory setting them wrong. Set them correctly and your good to go for 30k +

If you do get ahold of them try getting front shafts.

My buddies 7000 although to bottom of spec on some exhaust was still good. Left it alone.

Get Ohlins number on the shocks. Probably a YA number and I bet I can get the Reservoir from Ohlins. Might take awhile and will be expensive. I am a Ohlins dealer.

Yes

I got one and haven’t had opportunity to use it Thankfully. Buddies 7000 I am doing this weekend needed a heat exchanger also so had to lift motor anyway. Will be a HUGE timesaver.

No. It’s my buddy’s 7000 at 11000mi. I checked mine a few seasons ago and valves were right where I set them first time. Not even going to look anymore unless I have symptoms. Convinced the monkeys at factory messed up.

Merry Christmas you all. In the craziness of the season it’s easy to forget that family and friends are what it’s all about. Never saw a group like TY work as well together to keep us all riding together. Here’s to another great season with friends!

I am doing another one in a few days so my memory will be fresh and I will take some pics. Can for sure give you any help you need to make a Video.

Been there done that. Very expensive and if bad enough metal/link will be in your oil tank! Its easy to catch. Adjustment is very consistent once broke in. If having to go more something is failing either chain or bearings etc. I know I will get heat for this but if the gears are in good shape...

I would try locking both. I think that machining tolerances are at play here and it originally was designed to not move at any point. Clutch was also designed to be on a shaft that doesn't move. Lock them both. The belt is the Safety. We may find in some cases once it slips it will forever be...

Right on! I am pumped and have already been accused of only having Snowmobiling on mind not work!