Been there done that. Very expensive and if bad enough metal/link will be in your oil tank! Its easy to catch. Adjustment is very consistent once broke in. If having to go more something is failing either chain or bearings etc. I know I will get heat for this but if the gears are in good shape...
I would try locking both. I think that machining tolerances are at play here and it originally was designed to not move at any point. Clutch was also designed to be on a shaft that doesn't move. Lock them both. The belt is the Safety. We may find in some cases once it slips it will forever be...
You could look at the Vipers also. I switched mine to the reinforced side pieces off a LE or in Cats A RR. Just would have to straighten out the sheet metal that’s bent which should be easy once side piece is off.
I have never done a conversion to manual on the Ohlins. Whole eyelet would have to be replaced. Along with compression adjuster acquired. I have replaced many Solenoids mostly for broken wires. So important to follow the wire routing instructions on TY to a T.
Been running a 1” ripsaw2 on my viper last few years and really missed 1.25 at first coming out of corners especially. Always spun anyway when drag racing buddies in snow anyway due to trail studding so not much difference there anyway. Ice it’s better. Top speed is better. Studs never break off...
I think once it’s grinding or loose damage is done to bearing already replace bearing. If it still feels good regrease it preferably asap after last ride in spring before it sits and rusts.Greasing them definitely helps.
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