You could look at the Vipers also. I switched mine to the reinforced side pieces off a LE or in Cats A RR. Just would have to straighten out the sheet metal that’s bent which should be easy once side piece is off.
I have never done a conversion to manual on the Ohlins. Whole eyelet would have to be replaced. Along with compression adjuster acquired. I have replaced many Solenoids mostly for broken wires. So important to follow the wire routing instructions on TY to a T.
Been running a 1” ripsaw2 on my viper last few years and really missed 1.25 at first coming out of corners especially. Always spun anyway when drag racing buddies in snow anyway due to trail studding so not much difference there anyway. Ice it’s better. Top speed is better. Studs never break off...
I think once it’s grinding or loose damage is done to bearing already replace bearing. If it still feels good regrease it preferably asap after last ride in spring before it sits and rusts.Greasing them definitely helps.
I just got a PCV Pti which was on a great running OSP Turbo Viper. Unsure of exhaust. This one used an extra injector though so probably won’t work for you as is. If I were you I would get a AFR Guage and start tuning yourself.
Another good tip related is instead of using the Flex tubing to pump use FI rated rubber hose and cut it to exact length needed to hold pump all the way down in reservoir. Murdered here suggested that and I thought it was a great idea to keep pump from moving up and down. Especially since some...
Yup mine. Pump moves slightly. Only thing holding it is the sock and the wires at least mine should not have so much bare wire which is brittle from soldering showing. I resoldered and used shrink tubing over wire and receptacle.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.