Recent content by Kkurz

It's a great kit!!!

That's what I did, I slid a piece of threaded rod into the shaft and used the to shove it all on. It went very slick. I was even able to get the rod out of the shaft without cutting it. I had access to a lathe, so I could make a piece of pipe to shove on the inner race. Upon further inspection...

I just installed a kit from Rocztoyz called a Grease-it. It replaces the bearing on the driveshaft and makes it greasable. Its a pretty slick kit and considering how much work is involved in accessing that bearing It saves a lot of work down the road. It comes with a plate, bolts, and a drive to...

Well, I got the bugger off. One of the reasons I wanted to pull the shaft was, that I bought a Grease-it kit from Rocztoyz and wanted to install the new greasable bearing. It turns out the kit had a plate to be used to press the old bearing out and the new one in. I was able to use the plate on...

All the rivets are available, painted, from the dealer. I'm surprised and disappointed how many I've bought and replaced at least every other year on various parts of the tunnel, but if you read the manual it is part of the expected yearly maintenance.

Unfortunately I'm not the original owner so it's history is a mystery. I contacted Travis and left a message about his puller. I wonder if it would be possible to get at the inner race with a rotary tool and going it out? The bearing gets replaced anyway.

I soaked the back side of it with penetrating oil last night, and I'll give it a squirt again today. I was worried maybe it's been Loc-tited on. What about heat?

Mine is the same, at least they aren't really expensive.

I'm putting a greasable bearing on the brake side of my driveshaft, both sides, and a new seal on the chaincase. I have it disassembled but I can't figure out how to get the bearing in the caliper to move on the shaft. I've had the rotor off in the past but had to split the caliper to do that...

Unfortunately I bought plastic ones from the dealer. it's a done deal for now, but I've put 8000km on that sled and it has 17,000km total, not sure if the pads are original but it's the first I've replaced them.

Mine has Cat clutches. The secondary is very easy to shim. You just add or remove washers on the spacer in the secondary.

Well, I dove in and took the chaincase apart and I think I found the culprit. The plastic pads on the shifter fork were almost gone. $50 Canadian for those little chunks of plastic, criminal! Oh well, here's hoping the shifting comes back to normal. I did add a thin washer to shim the...

You will love the Snotrackers. They're great, I have semi-aggressive on mine and it's great. Even after I put 96 studs in it.

I've done the top gear recently. I'll check belt deflection, but I suspect the shift fork pads. It just seems suspect that this happened 100km after I put a new belt on.

My sled seems like it's only half shifting into reverse. It makes a grinding noise and it's related to the rev. It doesn't do it every time but has done it a couple of times in the last couple of shifts. I'm handy, and I suspect the shifter fork pads, the reverse actuator has been changes...