Soqi is the brand name, the company is actually Yamaha Hydraulic Systems, a division of the big Y. I suppose you could try reaching out to Soqi directly for some support, they might be helpful.
Unless you remove the tunnel protectors 1.5” is as tall as you can squeeze in there. Forget studs with a 1.5” track as well, you’ll have mega contact trying to run them and cause tons of damage unless you swap out to 8 tooth drivers and space the skid down out of the tunnel.
I’m 90% sure this is not an Ohlins part, that remote res assembly is most likely made by Soqi. @bjowett and I exchanged a few pm’s about it a couple of years ago.
As long as the clutches are clean and all wear parts are serviceable I don’t think a 10* reduction in twist will cause belt slippage, should just shift out a little quicker which is exactly what you’re after.
Tors will just induce a miss and pop a code on the IPC. I’ve seen the kill switches get a little funky and the key switch or connector for it have some green death inside them too.
George, Maim is right about setting up a meter and doing a draw test. If you find a large draw pull the EPS fuse first, think I remember seeing a post or two about the EPS modules having high parasitic draw.
Three holers are known to groove the weights up badly with high mileage as well. Sounds like you may have several contributing factors here but within the primary clutch is where to start.
https://hurricaneperformance.ca/gear-calculator/
Here’s a link to an accurate “gearing to speed” calculator. Plug your numbers in and see why gearing up doesn’t really make sense. If you’ve got adequate traction gearing down will yield faster acceleration. When I was running a gen 2 Ape I had...
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