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Dyno Ray the person that probably has more dyno time than anyone on the RX-1 and Apex motor sets all of them up that way. I do not know the exact advance at each rpm but he finishes them at 9 degrees past 11,000. Just give him a call. You guys with the Ulmer Ignition controller. What rpm is he...
Rock, You can run around 9 degrees up past 11,000 but you need to use the ignition module for that because you can not run it that advanced in the lower rpm range. Unlike the rx1 the Apex ECU retards the timing on top for some reason.
I will have mine running next weekend at 5 degrees. I think it is going to run well. I thought I was running 5 degrees last year but I did not check it with a wheel. So last year at 3 degrees advance and a split head gasket I ran 87 octane with no problems even on a long WFO run. No detonation...
In case someone does not want to buy a PC111. We tested a Hauck timing key on a timing wheel this year. There "3 degree key" is only about 1.5 degrees. If you take a total of exactly 1 mm out of the key this gives you exactly 5 degrees advance. Not as good as the ignition moudule but a hell of a...
Don't install the sheave.
Advance the ignition timing 4-5 degrees. Then run it at around 10,900. You probably will be close to 10,900 without doing any clutching. They run strong on top like this.
SJ, I would stick with around a 50-40 helix and load the tips a little more if it will still hold the rpm you want. Finishing in the 40 range is going to keep the backshift pretty good especialy if it is non roller.
I have the 6" deuce bars on my RTX. The darting is about 1/2 gone and the handling is very good. Maybe a slight push in the mushy stuff but very predictable. I may shim a little more this year. I only have a 3/16 rubber shim now.
I have worked with Scott before. I was having a hard time with a set up a few years ago and Randy the owner of SuperTorquer told me to call him. He was by far the most knowledgable person I had spoken with on Yamaha/Supertorquer clutching. I think he may also have some factory Yamaha...
Just another note on Fix. My brother in law ordered coils from them and 2 of the ones thay sent were very obviously used. They did not admit the mistake and it went as far as having to fight it out with the CC company. I did have good luck with the fix style lid though.
No when I say crossovers I mean the perforated pipes that connect the inside and outside chambers. My brother in law did just what you did by cutting out the 2 big pipes. It did sound great but after 100 miles it just got anoying and made the drone worse. If you just cut out the perforated pipes...
If you gut it like that it is pretty loud. My brother in law did it and had to open it back up and fix it. I would personaly just cut out the middle and ends of both crossover pipes. This frees up some restriction and makes it just a little louder.
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