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I just had the shock revalved by Pioneer. I turned it full in and felt 3 clicks. Started turning out and it again clicked 3 times and then just turns without clicks. It clicked all the way before revalving. I assume this is not normal. If it does not click is it changing the rebound? :o|
I owned a GT and F7 last year (sold f7 and bought a Phazer). F7 with boondocker, pipemod and dynoed. The F7 was faster buy a few lengths with me and buddy switching off. It matters all on setup most likely.
Not stirring things up, just adding to how nice it is to electronically change fuel curves or maps:
I have a Boondocker on my F7. Ran it on the Dyno added fuel where it needed it and pulled some away at the top. It was about 40 degrees out and after final adjustments- 3 pulls all at about 147...
My GT did not have the steel bushings around the bolt top and bottom on the spindle end on the right side! Talk about slop -just the plastic bushing and a bolt. :o|
There is a metal bushing that is suppose to be around the bolt that goes through the A arm to the spindle. I just bought the sled in March and only put 180 miles on. I bought it from a Yamaha employee that had it serviced before I bought it.
Now back to the steering slop. It appears to be mainly in the steering post busings and the first tie rod going to the chain case side steering tube. I have one hand on the lever arm by the chaincase and turn the bars. The bars move but the lever by the chain case lever side stays in position...
I went to take a picture and pulled the other side. They forgot to put in the steel bushing on the top and bottom! Just a plastic insert and bolt.I was wondering how it wore so round. :o|
I was looking for the steering slop and have the sled stripped down to look at all the bushings and rod ends. The sled is on a lift and when I bumped into the spindle it moved 1-2"! Wholly crap I pulled the bolt and there is 3/16" clearence (eye ball measurement). Then I went to the other side...
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