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You are most likely to find issues with the front end: bent subframe, worn ball joints, worn bushings.
For the subframe, look closely at the alignment of the a arms, the angle of the spindles, and the location of the shock within the a arms.
Ask if the ball joints have been replaced. See how...
I always have put loctite on, but I’ve had some battles getting these out. Wondering if skipping the loctite is a bad idea.
Has anyone had these bolts back out?
I don’t think we can expect a Yamaha designed and built sled any time soon. It's more likely that Yamaha will continue to move in the direction of viewing the sled market as a venue to sell engines and to support their dealer network with some Yamaha branded Arctic Cats to sell.
The problems...
With my stock wheels the wheel collar sleeve is flush with the race on the inside. I don’t have the gap that you want the star collar to fill.
Your bearings are 15mm wide. Stock is 12mm.
I assume that is the issue, but I’m not clear on how this extra width was working prior to the star install...
I'm looking for a cheap wear bar or non agressive carbide for my mtx ski. (The original mtx ski, 2008-2011 and 2014, not the MT9. This ski fits the same carbide as the rtx/xtx stock ski.)
I run snow trackers most of the time, but I want a low profile option for weekends when I'm riding off...
What is the easiest way to access these?
After doing a search I've read people talking about pulling the air box, removing lower nose plastics, or turning the skis and then pushing the rubber boot back.
The last option doesn't seem like it could work on the Nytro.
Remove and inspect the header. If it's a clean break and in good shape, someone should be able to weld it for you.
Here are the instructions to remove header:
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/excell-header-install.85794/
(You can drill rivets - don't need to chisel)
You will definitely have to remove your heat exchanger protectors.
I think you could leave the last section of tunnel protector in. Should be easy to check your current clearance to determine if the taller lug will work.
I found this bolt and washer sitting on my bottom plastics chain case side. First time removing the bottom plastics.
It is an 8mm. I can't see a similar bolt anywhere. The only hex/Phillips combos I have seen are flanged.
Is it from my sled? Or mystery bolt dropped in by previous owner?
So I have not been able to get the two Allen head hanger bolts to budge with an impact driver, hammer, oil, and heat.
I'll keep soaking them in oil and see what happens.
What's my best alternative? Drilling them out?
I got it off after soaking in oil overnight and using some pliers. Thanks.
Here is a picture of the inside of the cover. How bad is mine? Should I use an exhaust patch or something where the insulation is gone?
Okay I found this thread in the apex forum: http://ty4stroke.com/threads/is-there-a-part-number-for-an-axle-bearing-without-the-steel-seal.141753/
Sounds like Canadian dealers are carrying the metal sealed bearings instead.
Anyone have any experience with the longevity of these bearings?
I picked up a new clutch side driveshaft bearing from the dealer for my 2011 nytro.
The bearing appears to be identical (I haven't taken it out of plastic) but it has metal seals instead of rubber.
I was given part number 93306-20589-xx. The part number for my snowmobile is the 93306-20588-00...
Stock skis with snow trackers is a great trail set up. Light steering and they do not push. It's not that difficult to set your sled up for them - if anything, they reduce the need to fine tune the nytro front end for control.
They are not inherently dangerous. You (and anyone jumping on your...
Since I have my chain case apart I think I should replace my jack shaft clutch side bearing.
Are there any changes from this guide for a nytro?
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Jackshaftreplace/Jackshaftchange.htm
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