Search results

Arctic Cat is in trouble, let's face it, this is nothing new. When you run the same chassis from 2012-2024, it does help reduce costs of production, but it doesn't increase market share. Polaris is on pins & needles for this season as well and it's not all from just lack of snow, as atv & utv...

@rat4020 check out this thread for ignition timing information. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/stock-ignition-timing-on-apex.108981/#post-965978

Shouldn't need a vise or anything like that to compress the spring. It should only take your hand to compress it.

What are you using for a secondary setup? Stock Apex?

The chain tensioner is oil pressure activated, you have no oil pressure to activate it and keep it tight. Once it has pushed out due to oil pressure, there is a "detent" that keeps it from becoming loose. If you install the chain tensioner, push back on the chain guide against the tensioner...

Don't worry about the stroke. Piston #3 @ TDC, put the cams (intake lobes at 4 o'clock & exhaust lobes at 8 o'clock) in with dots lined up and you'll be fine. Manual is confusing.

If you tell me what size you need I can sell you individual shims, they are Hot Cams brand. They are $2 each. 605-387-2833

Still available, can help deliver to Minneapolis or Eau Claire, WI area as well!

Still available.

I understand what you're trying to do or saying now. I would suggest an email to Dale @ Dalton as he's probably the only one who may be able to answer your question.

I would pull the cams out first and turn it over, then pull the head off, and keep going step by step until you find the culprit.

Why do you want to know the spring rate? You really only need to know the preload (engagement force) and the end force (top rpm force). In 25+ years of clutching, I have never picked a spring because of it's spring rate.

Did you turn the motor over after installing the rods & pistons to the crank? Did you turn the motor over after installing the lower half of the crankcase and torquing it? It should only take 10 ft lbs of force to rotate the motor over with cams, etc all installed.

It's the internal oil seal on the water pump shaft. Aftermarket oil shouldn't have had anything to do with it.

A failure of the o-ring would cause oil to come out of the water pump/engine case area, but not the water pump drain itself. Is there oil getting in your coolant? It sounds like the oil pump seal, on the engine oil side, is leaking oil into the water pump housing area.

I'll do some digging, I may have some yet.

His attention to detail on every part of his custom sleds was second to none and one of the nicest guys to talk to as well! He will be missed! Prayers to his family.

Buy Avid. You can NOT switch pitch number or drive tooth. You MUST run 8 tooth 3.0 pitch or it will not synchronize with the track correctly or the 2.5" lug will not clear the front heat exchanger.

Seal behind water pump, the seal is letting oil from the gear drive area into the coolant system.