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Like @74Nitro said, I’ve seen a few of this connectors develop poor contact between the male and female terminals on high mile/older sleds. It may be worth throwing the main relay down near the battery/starter on the list as well. They can be intermittent internally and the white connector...

So after @earthling spent literally hours of his life dicking around with this POS trying to repair/replace the USB port it remains functional with the current map, but that’s it. No decent communication between the module and a laptop could ever be established. I was able to find a cheap ish...

Same throttle body/ISC setup as your Nytro.

If you’re going to pound through bumps for hours on a Mono skid it needs a shock with lots of oil capacity to keep fade to a minimum, the stock KYB could use a little help in that regard. That single shock is doing an awful lot of work on its own it that scenario.

All bets are off of the reluctor ring has chewed up the speed sensor. I’ve seen sleds pop engine codes and go into limo mode, activate TORS at random, and even shut the sled right down. I’d start with a new speedo sensor and go from there. If you are still battling a no start condition check...

The Mono responds very well to stretching as long as you keep the basic geometry intact. To be honest I haven’t ridden a 121” Mono for any length of time since ‘06, all of my sleds have been 136” and the newest a 146” Mono I’ve built. I also never had much luck with the Ohlins, find the basic...

I added a cross shaft on the rail extensions to give the skid lots of strength back there, that was it.

Agreed. With a dual-rate spring set up and appropriate valving the Mono is a fantastic trail skid.

Did you look closely at what the OP said on the first page? All of the info you’d need is there.

The 540 leaf blower has always been stone cold reliable as long as you take care of it, and there’s obviously still a bit of a market for this type of sled in both light trail and utility trim.

Art’s Sled Shop just North of Stouffville on HWY 48 is good with 4 stroke Yammies. I do all of my own work, but I recommend Art’s to anyone in the area who doesn’t.

I just used Tracks USA extensions to build a 146” Mono skid from some old 121” rails and Mono II arms, transfer rod, etc. The suspension mounting plates came from an old 136” tunnel. So far this stretched/tipped rail Mono skid is working fantastic under my ‘16 Apex.

If you look up the exploded parts diagram for the chaincase in the parts finder it will show you everything you need to know.

The 136” tracked sleds were always geared one tooth lower than the short track versions and usually had slight clutching changes as well.

I don’t think the ‘14 Vipes had the best valving. If I was you I’d get ahold of @cannondale27 and have a chat with him about your shocks and various options for improvement. As far as skis go, I’ve never been a fan of the Tuners on the DB sleds, and less so on any PC sled I’ve ridden. Single...

Stock “HPG” shocks…basically unbranded Fox Zero Pro’s cheapened up for AC to use on their sleds.

Hard to tell, my crystal ball is broken. If he’s using a 50/50 mix of pump fuel/av gas to keep it alive as you’ve stated in your other thread it’s certainly not a turn key sled. @STAIN and I have both advised you there’s likely more trouble free rides out there, I strongly suggest you heed...

Fack!!!

The issues weren’t MPI specific, Rotrex built the compressors for them and had some issues that came out of nowhere after years of almost bulletproof reliability. MPI did go the turbo route after that, but I think the damage had been done. Once the ‘Winder was released their target market...

Updated Apex without a turbo…. 998 turbo has the big power guys covered, but there is a hole in the current lineup around 150-165 ponies. I do think they’re done with the four holer though, which is a shame. A tuned up NA triple could get them to that power level without all the fuss and muss...