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If it's running to hot and you come to a stop the ECU will shut it down but the ECU will not shut it down as long as it's moving no matter how hot it gets. Change the coolant and make sure the fan is working. You may want to pull the upper radiator hose and make sure it's not plugged.

Possibly the idle control solenoid is sticking. Also, if you haven't replaced the antifreeze recently it may be time. As the coolant ages it becomes less effective at dissipating heat.

pull the fuel pump out and check/reset the o-ring.

Yes, it'll all plug in. You'll just need to remove the two oil sensors off the old viper motor and install them with a Tee to the Nytro block.

Someone did it awhile back but I can't find the thread. If I remember right he installed a Tee fitting for both sensors but the problem was finding a Tee with compatible threads. The sensors are not pipe thread, they seal with an o-ring. I think he might have had the Tee fitting made or maybe he...

If using the Viper electronics and a Nytro motor the oil pressure sensors will need to be addressed. If the Nytro motor, wire harness and electronics are transferred over to the Viper that gets more complicated but doable. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-glider-build.141852/

I've lost mine when fueling out on the trails. Not a good situation when you top off a trail tank and you're missing that seal in the cap. Replace the seal and it should stay in place..... at least for awhile.

Or just bring it to me.

I've heard so much garbage out of dealer's mouths that I rarely pay attention any more..... Like when the dealer told me that when I change the oil in my new 850cc Wolverine X2 to add all the oil back through the valve cover instead of filling the oil tank. :o|

Usually StarTron or Lucus Oil stabilizer but I've also used Marine grad Stabil.

I think it would. The 1" difference only translates to about 1/2" of additional adjustment needed to tighten the track.

From 2012 to 2014 Yamaha switch from the previous 2.52 pitch to a 2.86 pitch on the nytro so no driver swap is needed to install a 129" track.

There are two top dead centers. If you believe you were on the compression TDC and not on the overlap TDC and the leak down test failed I'd pull the valve cover and check valve lash.

You might have been testing at TDC overlap which occurs between the exhaust and intake strokes. At this point both exhaust and intake valves are slightly opened. Top Dead Center refers to the piston being at the very top of its travel in the cylinder. On a four stroke, TDC will occur at the top...

I've always ran 87 octane w/ 10% ethanol and never have had issues. I treat my gas if it's not going to be used for a few weeks and I always treat the fuel that goes into storage containers. These Yamaha 4 stroke engines are designed and mapped to run 87 octane. Running higher than that is not...

These engines tend to start and run better on 87 octane fuel. If your having issues and running a higher octane try running 87 octane which is what the engine was designed to run on.

Hard cold starts can be an indication that the valve clearance is out of spec. I'd replace the battery first due to it's age and if that didn't correct the start issue then I'd pull the valve cover to check valve clearance.

Yep, This is reconfirming what I've discovered with Viper startup issues. I've seen way to many starter failures on all the Yamaha machines.

A bad injector is definitely a possibility. The splice blocks look like a connector that's not being used. You can always distinguish a splice by the wire color code. If all the wires going into the block are the same code then it's a splice.

If the starter didn't disengage after the last startup it would have been locked to the engine rpm and eventually destroyed. When the starter failed it may have locked up and stopped the engine. If that's what actually happened there's a good chance it also destroyed the starter gears and one...