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You know when you're trying to sleep, but a mosquito is doing a fly-by next to your ear? Well that will still happen, but the annoying 2-stroke sound is gone.

Did you check the dipstick? Or eventually a sight glass?

Let us know what the result is!

*this tube could be clogged, but it is supposed to be there.

Could be. If the vent tube is blocked the pressure could push oil out the turbo seals. Be sure to check that oil line exiting below turbo too.

I was assuming you bought it used. Yes, you can use simple silicone tape to cover the hole. I routed the vent hose down in front of the turbo, for it to follow the existing oil lines at the bottom. Took it out behind exhaust, but had to check every time for ice buildup before starting. I did it...

An important step to keeping that turbo in good condition is to always let it idle until the temp light stops flashing, then driving gently before reaching operating temps. Also, driving gently and letting it cool down before shutting off. Doing the opposite causes the turbo to burn oil inside...

This is how it should be after installation. Same principle with cold air intake. The "engine vent. tube" causes oil buildup in the intake over time. It's normal, but not the preferable choice. As maim said, this can be rerouted out the bottom.

Sounds like oil coming through the turbo seals. Check for shaft-play on intake side, every direction. If it easily touches the housing, the bearings are out. Check the crank ventilation; black plastic box with tubes going in and out above turbo, could be a blockage in there. Lot of posts on...

I get the idea of laminar flow, but I wanna see documented HP gains on newer sleds. This is very interesting!

I put my Viper up for sale last month, and got little to no response. It had 7200kms and a lot of mods. I wanted to either upgrade to a Sidewinder or pay down some dept and get a SW next season. Then one guy wanted to trade a '21 Alpha, basically brand new. I hadn't tested a 2-stroke in the...

Welcome to the team! Be sure to post your specs so we know how to help. What model, shocks etc. It's likely the rattling noise comes from the primary clutch, as is normal on these. Try listening on both sides while engine runs. It could also be an exhaust leak, for example, the header - check...

Is that an RX1 chassis?

Don't know much about clutching, really. I just removed the heel weights on my BDX weights and it was a perfect fit to my slightly bigger turbo. But because of a reflash that was supposed to help my Viper start easier, it can now drive on its own right after startup (rarely). So I think I'll put...

Lighter weights on heels and clean clutches should do the trick!

That's right, narrower skis make it easier to tip over, and wider is better for cornering. Be sure to post your specs and riding preferences.

Does the updated actuator have a metal or plastic gear inside the actuator? I'm looking for this so-called updated version. I've rotated the plastic gear inside for it to work for a while, but it eventually stops working. What usually happens is the motor drive screw grinds the plastic gear...

Both left and right are inside the switch blocks on mine.

^ and if it still blows the fuse after taking it out, I guess disconnecting the reverse actuator would give you the answer - either the wires leading to it or the actuator is broken.

I considered the Oft bushings and block, but went with originals due to pricing. I think Oft are out of business as well, can't seem to find those parts anymore. The trick is to adjust the suspension properly, more pressure on center spring is a must. You could also relocate center spring for...