snowhite
Pro
So 2015 machine , I changed out the whole reverse motor and drive to an updated one a couple years ago, worked fine until trying to use it in the fall after the machine sat through the summer. it had nothing dead, bingo. So I found that the plugs or connectors some how had a bit of green inside, got it working now every once in a while when the switch is hit to engage the son of * ***** the gear doesn't mesh and what a grinding noise it makes. Try it again and it engages, What the H is that about?? Why would anything grind in the reverse mode when the belt isn't moving or the jackshaft ? Is it simply the electric motor turning the drive or how can it be the gear in the case?? Ever hear about this one?
scalise71
Veteran
There is a plastic gear inside the actuator that strips. there are videos on here about it. Mine does it when I shut it off, it is to make sure it puts it into forward when you start it again. There is a video that you can reclock the gear to miss the stripped pard. I’m looking to see if the gear is available separately instead of buying the whole actuator.
Norse
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2019
- Messages
- 189
- Location
- Sápmi
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2013 Arctic Cat M1100 HCR 162"
Boondocker turbo 250HP(sold)
2016 Yamaha SR Viper MTX LE 162"
MCXpress 270HP, lots of mods (sold)
2021 Arctic Cat M8000 Hardcore Alpha 155"
N/A (sold)
2023 Yamaha SW MTX LE 153"
M&M Racing 270HP, Elevate, lots of mods
Does the updated actuator have a metal or plastic gear inside the actuator? I'm looking for this so-called updated version.
I've rotated the plastic gear inside for it to work for a while, but it eventually stops working. What usually happens is the motor drive screw grinds the plastic gear till it breaks the teeth. You can rotate the plastic gear 120 degrees for a total of 3 times. I'm at the second actuator now - I'm guessing the angle on the tip of the gears in the chaincase are flat, so it will no longer "slip" the gear in to place. The actuator runs for a set amount of time, so if the gear doesn't hop into place, you get no reverse.
I think the grinding noise comes from the chaincase. Maybe you're missing some teeth. Biker mike on Youtube has a proper explanation on how to install the actuator, it's really important to do it the right way. If you don't do the "1 o'clock twist" the reverse motion will act up.
I'd say you either installed the actuator improperly, or you need to some new gears in the chaincase.
I've rotated the plastic gear inside for it to work for a while, but it eventually stops working. What usually happens is the motor drive screw grinds the plastic gear till it breaks the teeth. You can rotate the plastic gear 120 degrees for a total of 3 times. I'm at the second actuator now - I'm guessing the angle on the tip of the gears in the chaincase are flat, so it will no longer "slip" the gear in to place. The actuator runs for a set amount of time, so if the gear doesn't hop into place, you get no reverse.
I think the grinding noise comes from the chaincase. Maybe you're missing some teeth. Biker mike on Youtube has a proper explanation on how to install the actuator, it's really important to do it the right way. If you don't do the "1 o'clock twist" the reverse motion will act up.
I'd say you either installed the actuator improperly, or you need to some new gears in the chaincase.
