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Thanks guys, when I first started it the idle rose to about 2200 rpm and stayed there. It slowly came down once the temp light went out but seemed to settle around 1800. I had to turn the idle back down almost a full turn to get it back to 1500. This was starting it in a +5°C garage so can't say...

Well it didn't blow up so that's a good thing. I noticed that the idle was a bit higher than it was before and I had to turn it down. So far it idles very stable and does not drop. I will have to wait for colder weather to see if the cold start low idle has been eliminated. I also need to sync...

Got the sled back together enough to start it but was too late to fire it up. Going to try it tonight, hope it runs well.

I think the manual refers to "harder" as slower rebound but in general when the knob is turned clockwise (looking from that end of the shock) it will slow down the rebound (harder) and turning counter clockwise will speed up rebound (soften).

I can measure the tall for you tonight, I know the super windshield is much taller and wider than that.

I should have the gaskets tonight, I noticed that there was a trace of sealant used with the valve cover gasket, should I use any sealant when putting on the new gasket? The manual does not call for any but it came with it from the factory.

I didn't have a way to measure the center where the valve stem touches (it's only about 4mm dia) but I measured the overall thickness and they seemed to be pretty close to the number on them, really no wear. Based on my clearance measurements after I can confirm that there was basically no wear...

The shim measurements are shown in hundredths of a mm, this is the format that is shown on the shim itself, for example a 175 shim will measure 1.75 mm.

Added a picture to view the measurements easier.

Got my replacement shims last night and got the cams back in. The new measurements look good, just need to wait for my gaskets so I can reassemble. Measurements are in the spreadsheet below. I'm anxious to see how it will run :dunno:

I will loosen the clamps and make sure the flanges are tight before assembling, hopefully that helps.

I have the same problem with the copper donuts on my apex, I can see where they have been leaking because the heat shield is discoloured and it would not stall when the exhaust was plugged. I'm thinking about going back to stock, although copper donuts seem to be perfectly sealed on the nytro...

Got the cams out and removed the buckets and shims. Should I measure the shims that were in there or do they not wear? It's going to be tricky to get within spec on some valves since the replacement shims only come in 0.05mm increments.

No the shims don't really wear at all, the valve and seat wear causing the valve to protrude further into the head which reduces the clearance between the cam and bucket.

Yes unfortunately the cams need to come out to change shims, this is new territory for me so it may take some time. I have attached the excel sheet I used to record all of my valve clearances for reference. I still need to update it with the current shims to figure out what new shims are required.

So my initial measurements are in, looks like all the intake valves are at the minimum spec. Most of the exhaust valves are below spec with one valve at 0.004" clearance (minimum is 0.008"). Going to pull the cams and check what shims I have in there so I can order new ones. I'm going to double...

Ok, just doesn't make sense to me since you are rotating the engine backwards. According to the procedure for the R1, the engine is rotated clockwise from the timing chain side which happens to be the clutch side on the sled. That made more sense to me so that's what I followed. If that is...

But I thought you are not supposed to rotate the engine backwards? If you rotate the mag side clockwise then you will be forcing the timing chain to push against the tension because it's rotating backwards. Can someone clarify?

Yah I think it would be pretty tight trying to work around it.

Where I'm at now,