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Tcat i just looked up that part and it shows that only one is needed but your parts list shows qty of 2 ?

Well said, totally agree 100%. Few years back leaving Dubreuilville heading towards Hearst I had a issue with the dmc bushing seized to the shaft and I only had forward for the rest of the week, another brp group also was riding up to Hearst and we encountered them at some stops along the way...

I will be doing mine in the next few months and will try and post as much details as possible. Big thanks to Tcat100 for getting this done.. On a side note I didn’t think the PS unit was that big, comparing it to my grizzly eps it’s considerably bigger.

https://www.royaldistributing.com/ca_en/ppd-idler-wheel-r0141d-2-001b.html These also work great, been running them for years now and they hold up good with minimal wear.

Post 41, minus the harness and post 47 for the connectors.

I had a 11 apex and had the opportunity to try a esp SW, even though it was only for a few minutes there’s no comparison between the two, the apex was nice but the SW eps brings it to another level.

That is comparing to the earlier apex/vector eps units, no difference between the SW years eps. My eps parts are in, install to come soon.

Sd-25 is a boost leak

I personally think the center spring is your problem, to each their own but I tried the stingray and the cat 160 springs and don’t like them, while they lighten the steering effort it’s to stiff of a ride while going through the studder bumps at speed, I’m going back to stock spring.

I’m putting my to the test starting Feb 12 in saguenay Quebec

I think he has a 2020 btx.

Look at around the 1:18 mark

I could be totally wrong with this but isn’t the air bypass solenoid connected to the bov at the nose of the sled. I remember watching the Yamaha video of the new 998 and it describes the air bypass solenoid as that.

Lucky you lol.. I got a sd26 code but stayed on and it was a major pain to get it cleared.

Also loosen the rear axle bolts and back off the track tension all the way loose

when reinstalling the skid always use a ratchet strap to compress the rear shock as it makes lining up the rear bolts easy once you have the front lined up. Removing the torsion spring tension makes it even easier, take out the bolt that hold the springs to the rails and pull the spring away...

You can, I just found it easier to remove the shock bolt

Compress the rear shock with a ratchet strap, wrap the strap over the torsion spring and down to where the shock mounts at the lower position, crank the strap tight, it will compress the rear and it should line up

Is the rear of the suspension still bolted to the tunnel ?