Knockout kit

[Hammer70]

I'm open to being proved wrong, but so far so good.
I hope that the guys that are are installing these on higher mile clutches realize that it won't remove the noise of a worn out clutch.

I agree my clutch’s STM and I’m on top of them just freshened them up one set has just over 4 k and on other sled just over 5 k but sure is quite. Keep fingers crossed

 

[74Nitro]

Copper washers huh, must be different thicknesses to accommodate the roller bolt being longer then the roller bushing, and causing that bolt head to hit on the clutch and eventually wear into that aluminum clutch. I found some steel washers that were a bit too thick at the hardware store. I then sanded each one down to allow .002-.003” play when fully tight. I was aware that if I went with one too tight, it could have caused that clutch pocket to move in and crack. Afterwards I learned on here, that I could buy some fiber washers to put on other end of that bolt to help absorb that hit/noise caused by the factory loose bushings/ bolts. Yes it does reduce some noise, but it still a noisy clutch. Mine were worn bad, on one of them I didn’t have to sand that steel washer to give it that bit of play. Hadn’t I done that it would probably have an 1/8” or more of play! Yep, these clutches should have simply added the set screws to the roller bush

I agree my clutch’s STM and I’m on top of them just freshened them up one set has just over 4 k and on other sled just over 5 k but sure is quite. Keep fingers crossed

I have 14400 kms on my clutch. Last year I added a set screw to prevent the roller pins from moving back and forth. I also use the Polaris spider shims to keep my button clearance at new specs. That helped, but there was still some noise. I recently added the knockout kit. My sled has never been this quiet.

 

[Hammer70]

I have 14400 kms on my clutch. Last year I added a set screw to prevent the roller pins from moving back and forth. I also use the Polaris spider shims to keep my button clearance at new specs. That helped, but there was still some noise. I recently added the knockout kit. My sled has never been this quiet.

Nice I used to use rubber o rings on the pins for rollers back in the day helped a little bit.

 

[Motorhead]

View attachment 175249
I like the fibre idea...Yes, one in each side. If you Google "Yamaha sidewinder quiet kit" I believe Ulmer's sells them for $10. But please don't quote me.

Yep, did that to mine 2-3 years ago but with steel washer on other end, bolt end because that’s where the bolt head indented the clutch aluminum. Following year I added the fiber washer under that nut and made sure to not over tighten all. Blue loctite is still tight every time I check those rollers. Thanks for the pic!

 

[Motorhead]

I have 14400 kms on my clutch. Last year I added a set screw to prevent the roller pins from moving back and forth. I also use the Polaris spider shims to keep my button clearance at new specs. That helped, but there was still some noise. I recently added the knockout kit. My sled has never been this quiet.

Yes agree that you have the fix for that longer than the bolt, bushing! I remember a thread on here years past about doing that, and many thought it may cause that portion of the clutch to crack! Glad to hear of your fix, and your proving it, this is a way better method of holding that bushing in place (just like some Yamaha clutches of old)and then you can tighten bolt against it without forcing that clutch window to crack! I think my clutch had 7-8K on it when I first did my fix, it now has over 11K on it.

 

[fatchance]

Been there with the copper washers. Waste of time

 

[stgdz]

So what is the reason the grease is blowing out?

Do people dry fit the o-ring? Do they slather it in some grease? Are they putting in too much grease?

 

[earthling]

So what is the reason the grease is blowing out?

Do people dry fit the o-ring? Do they slather it in some grease? Are they putting in too much grease?

Some are reporting that the knockout collar is a drop in slip fit, others a press fit. I had to press mine in. If it is easy to press in it will likely move when the whole thing is reassembled as it is a tight fit to get the o-ring over the splines and then past the splines and there is little room for error, the collar has to stay flush with the end of the stub shaft as there just isn't a lot of surface past the end of the splines where the o-ring is supposed to sit. If the collar moves (in), it will end up not seating past the splines on the shaft (onto the un-machined portion) and the grease will simply follow the splines on the shaft. You can see in the below picture that there simply isn't a lot of space there, especially when you consider that the o-ring itself is set back in the collar. From there its just the hydraulic pressure that will be created by the shaft moving under load that will force the grease out.

(Picture From: MrSleds video)

Position of O-ring

Otherwise... ? I guess the grease is just breaking down. I used green loctite and let it cure for 48 hours but have not had any riding time since. I expect the grease will break down over time.

Note: I ordered a knockout kit when it first came out and judging by the amount of grease in the video, mine came with twice as much. This could be where the confusion around how much to use comes from.

 

[74Nitro]

I've installed about ten so far. I'd like to see the outer diameter bigger by a thou or two as I think they don't fit very tight and is why we have heard of some staying on the shaft upon removal.
I clean everything up thoroughly and loctite both surfaces with proper cure time.
If they have to be re-greased every couple thousand miles, not a huge deal. Time will tell. Need more snow!

 

[WinderFab]

I've installed about ten so far. I'd like to see the outer diameter bigger by a thou or two as I think they don't fit very tight and is why we have heard of some staying on the shaft upon removal.
I clean everything up thoroughly and loctite both surfaces with proper cure time.
If they have to be re-greased every couple thousand miles, not a huge deal. Time will tell. Need more snow!

I’m putting my to the test starting Feb 12 in saguenay Quebec

 

[sideshowBob]

If they have to be re-greased every couple thousand miles, not a huge deal. Time will tell. Need more snow!

The way this season is going they would only require regreasing every 2-3 seasons!

 

[sledheadgeorge]

After 400 miles, clocked since instalation, rattle is back. Plan on checking it out more carefully at the end of the season to see details.

 

[STAIN]

my rattle came back. Checked the collar and it is stuck on the crank. I removed the collar and red loc-titited it to the stub shaft. I will give it one more shot.

 

[74Nitro]

my rattle came back. Checked the collar and it is stuck on the crank. I removed the collar and red loc-titited it to the stub shaft. I will give it one more shot.

I'm concerned that may become a problem. The interference fit isn't tight enough. Once it moves over, all the grease works its way out.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Can’t see what would cause it to move. Maybe not moving just sticking to the crank shaft when the shaft removed after installation. Unless the grease is pushing it out hydraulically when installing