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They are safety retainers for the two bolts that attach steering linkage to bulkhead brace. Bolts have groove machined on them for clip. Its on the bottom side

remove the rear bolt to transfer rod so it is not hooked to rear arm. This will allow you to easily line things with tunnel.

I may have a used updated fox shock coming in. I also have an elka on order for another customer. Support out of Elka is quite limited on the shock they offer and they don't list it for all models which does not make any sense as all single shot skids are dimensionally the same other than rail...

I have a 16 here ending in 258 with no rod issues. 8k miles on it.

I too have never heard of any rod issue on the 16 apex or any apex motor for that matter. Did yamaha issue a bulletin showing the affected vins? Without that, really no way to know which ones are potentially bad.

I just checked the two I have on the shelf that I got in for stock to be sure they were right. Both were correct. 15 plate wide.

I make a repair kit plate for the 137 drop brackets. https://www.barnofparts.com/drop-bracket-repair-kit

Thanks for posting. Glad to hear the new bearing resolved your issue. Still puzzling that you had the whole clip popping issue to begin with. To date you are still the only one I know of that had that issue. Interesting that you were able to get the seal in through the tunnel. Did you have to...

From what I've gathered Cat models with team clutches use the large snap ring and yamaha models omit it since they have the small snap ring on jackshaft. Cat jackshaft does not have the small snap ring. Yamaha was going for weight savings!

Is the end machined flat on the bolts? They are a specialty bolt and not used anywhere else on sled. I just measure one and they are 16mm long like you state.

If I recall this was an attak. Still stock skid? I know on skids like m10 and pro action the front cross shaft was very close to drivers so extrovert teeth could interfere with shaft.

They look to me like they are belt deflection bolts on backside of secondary. There should be three of them.

You have made multiple posts about this. What leads you to believe this?

I will be updating the website list soon. Have some new parts to add.

I didn't try drilling it. If you can still drill the driveshaft that indicates it's still softer than the bearing race. Bottom line is I think some measure should still be taken to lock down the bearing on the 22 and up sleds as well.

These changes were supposedly implemented on 22’s. I checked my 22 and not convinced the driveshaft was changed. Harder shaft theoretically would make it harder for driveshaft saver to expand but i did not need any additional torque to snug up the bearing. I also took a hand file and could mark...

So heat exchangers are not getting warm? Did you crack the rear bleeder screw?

If you switch to the apex/vector shorter knuckles and spindles you would want to swap the top arm as well to make the geometry correct. If you don't swap the top arm the camber will be off if i remember correctly.

Off hand I don't recall which wire is ground vs hot. I can check later

You can just tie into the 12v accessory on left side of key switch panel. This is fused circuit and is energized once sled starts.