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Weird something isn't quite right. I have on my cdi red, brown, orange, red white, black yellow, and black
Stator is white, brown, red, yellow, white red, black
Should I go rd/white to rd/white
red to red
brn to brn
black to black
That...
Doing an engine swap cs340ep motor onto a go kart. I have all necessary pieces to simply run the engine, but I need to find a wiring diagram on this thing. Anyone who might have some info or a diagram please comment. No I'm not going to buy a 40 dollar workshop manual for one diagram.
Hey,
I just got an SJCAM (off-brand gopro) and was looking for tips on where to mount it.
I have a BRP modular helmet so I cant rly mount to the top of the helmet and still be able to open the face shield. Also I couldn't find anything in the forum about mounting them specific to the new...
the noise just stopped. we got a decent amount of snow here and when I stopped to gas up I shut down the sled and the noise was gone.
its kindof a relief but I still would have liked to know what caused it.
I wouldn't think it would be any evaporation off of the heat exchanger I haven't ran it long enough to do anything like that. There's minimal snow here as of right now. Sounds like a noise from the engine compartment. I'm going to double check the return line on the gas tank though
Recently went through my air box and everything to prep for season. The sled is running great however when I shut down the sled there is a noise that will persist three or four seconds after shut down. It almost had the same sound as a leaky tire. I was thinking vacuum leak except for other than...
Not to comment on my own post too many times but Voda2000 would be right because when the sensor was plugged back in it started quick which would mean either the ecu was still pumping in fuel like it was disconnected or there was excess fuel in the cylinders. Hopefully someone smarter than me...
I've done some more research and it is possible to switch the sensor but if extra wiring is added in for a switch it could alter the resistance of the sensor and make the engine run rich or lean even when not switched off. I'll be trying a couple things tomorrow hopefully I stumbled onto...
The intake air temp sensor actually is the one next to the intake air pressure sensors which are the ones with the hoses. This sensor just has a little probe that sticks into the air box. But instead of a valve a cutoff switch would work. That's if this is the reason for my abnormally easy startup
At first that's what I thought. But then I was thinking the engine still started and ran while the sensor was disconnected. So it would have burned off any extra fuel. I wonder if the sensor read that the air was colder than it was could it have fooled the ecu into changing the a/f ratio? Maybe...
So I fixed a few things on the phazer today and when I went to start it up I got the code 22. I plugged the sensor in that I had forgotten and when I went to start it up again it fired up after only one revolution. This has never happened before and I certainly don't mind it. Maybe it had...
i found the cable was too tight there was no slack in the throttle all i did was loosen the cord at the throttle body and play with that metal clip a little and it quit.
on th upside i had an excuse to clean out my airbox.
Okay I think I know what you're talking about I'll have to pull it apart tomorrow. And I'll take a couple pics and circle those parts because if it's supposed to be how I understand it something is rly messed up
so i got everything pulled apart again. im pretty sure its that metal clip in the throttle lever because when i pull on it it throws a code and i can push it back in and it goes off. i just want to make sure that little metal clip showed in the attached picture is the one i need to screw with
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